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Discussion Starter #1
First off, thanks to everyone on here for your knowledge and willingness to share it. I have already learned more about my truck in the 2 weeks I have had it from this site than on any other vehicle I have owned.

Been searching the FAQ's and through posts and have a few general ideas, but still curious if I am missing something.

I've been experiencing some higher temps lately (over 210 without any towing) and thought the t-stat was sticking and replaced it. Drove great after and hadn't had a problem until yesterday. Came out to the idling truck to find it at almost 230!!! Shut it down, let it cool and checked oil and coolant levels. Both were fine, no milkyness in the oil and no "blown HG" smell. Fired it back up and saw no evidence of higher temps. Today while driving I experienced it reaching 210 and sitting there for a while before it backing down. Brand new 195 T-stat in it. Planning on doing the KD dual t-stat upgrade soon. Any ideas?

Also: Having trouble firing the truck up on very cold starts (truck sitting for longer than 8 hours typically). Would start, run for 30 seconds and die. This goes along with some of the "missing" issues I am having and am thinking it is the PMD since the lift pump is good (recently checked thanks to everyone here) and that the glow plugs could be on their way out.

Sorry for the long post, just very curious and don't want to "F" the truck up before I even get it broken in. Thanks!:help:
 

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Check your fan clutch out as the czar stated. How does your heater work? On mine I had similar issues and it ended up being the water pump impellor was rusted away:eek:. And I would check your lift pump and OPS for the start and stall first before replacing the PMD.
 

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What brand of thermostat did you buy? Did it look identical to the oem? Can't skimp on quality of thermostats on these engines. Next item would be to check your fan clutch after the engine has warmed up, turn engine off and attempt to spin fan in normal direction of rotation. Shouldn't totally spin, should have a little resistance. Next item would be to remove radiator and power wash, 10 years of bugs and oil film can really plug the core and the only way to get it clean is to remove it.;)
 

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i beg to differ on power washing the radiator. especially with high pressure water. you'll bend those fins. i'd spray it with a hose lightly and use a nail file or similar tool to push the bugs out. from the backside forward. at the same time you should straighten the fins that get bent from bug impacts. they might not have alot of mass when they hit the rad but at 70mph even a bee hurts if ya get hit in the face on a m/c. mind you i'd rather take a bee hit than a crow. they have alot of mass and it will snap your head back. even at 40 mph. i know previous experience my nose was just about broken and i have a full face helmet.:eek:fftopic:
 

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at 70mph even a bee hurts if ya get hit in the face on a m/c. mind you i'd rather take a bee hit than a crow. they have alot of mass and it will snap your head back. even at 40 mph. i know previous experience my nose was just about broken and i have a full face helmet.:eek:fftopic:
I did a duck once @ 75 mph! You should have seen my helmet!!-:t
 

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It's shouldn't take 3000 psi to clean the radiator, it's not that thick. Regular garden hose pressure should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How much do you think air in the line will play into the temperature? Relieved a lot tonight while tightening the bolts on the batteries and still saw temps towards 210. I am looking into doing the Kennedy upgrade to the cooling system, but every time I check the coolant at the t-stat there is air to be blown out. Should I pressure test the system possibly when flushing it (when I do the upgrade) or still look into the fan clutch. The fan showed resistance when hot and being turned...
 

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Remove the radiator cap and start engine. Are there bubbles present? If so, are they big or small? Bubbles could indicate blown head gasket. Just repaired one doing the same thing several months ago. Head gaskets were bad, radiator was plugged from the inside, oil, bugs, leaves.
When I say to use a pressure washer, don't get the high pressure nozzle very close to where it can damage the fins, they are delicate, the idea is to use the fine mist to blast away the debis and the soap helps also. A hose will only work if the debris isn't coated with oil and the large drops of water can actually cause more damage than the fine mist. Nuff said.
 

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First, and most importantly - remove the radiator to clean out the area between the condensor core and the radiator - you will be unpleasantly surprised at the amount of 'stuff' in there.

If not cleaned there, none of the other 'fixes' will fix it.

Check the rad core for plugged tube-ends - it's aluminum and may be oxidizing from deteriorated coolant ph.

Then, on to the '97 upgrades............
 

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What about running too cold? I have had this issue since I bought the truck 2 years ago. 4 T-stats later, a radiator, water pump and the same thing.
Thought about the upgrade too but don't know if I need it.

Mark
 

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They seldom overheat if the cooling system is cleaned and maintained, Mark - putting a 10k load on it thru hill country will tell a whole new tale.

If yours continues to run cool, I'd do some heavy-duty knocking on wood, knowwhuttImean?!
 

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I was kinda wondering about the running cool too. Had to replace the t-stat when I bought the truck and used the 195. You can watch the guage and tell exactly when the t-stat opens up, the needle moves back down a couple of ticks allowing the truck to run @ 180.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Checked the fan clutch last night and it showed resistance. Went over all the battery connections and the truck woke right up this morning without any issues and after being plugged in last night. Glow plugs could still be an issue, but that can wait after this morning....:(

On the way to work, temps once again started soaring, put it off on the side of the road and waited to see if they would die. I finally shut the engine off when it started going up more once it hit 230. Let it sit, bled some air out of the t-stat housing thinking maybe a bubble, fired it back up, watched the fan run, temp continued to rise.

Gonna get it towed later today, run a compression check for the HG and if that comes back oK then I will be calling Kennedy Diesel for the dual t-stat upgrade in the morning. Figure it includes a water pump anyways and I can upgrade while I am at it.:ro)
 

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I suspect blown head gasket(S) the air bubbles you are bleeding from the thermostat housing is probably compression gasses.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have been getting "bubbling" in the coolant tank immediately after turning the engine off if the engine has been running for a while (30 mins plus)or high temps. I am hoping that it is not the head gasket. I experienced similar issues when I had my turbo eclipse and the water pump was going out (temps fluctuated, sometimes ran hot and sometimes was fine).
 

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Not a death warrant, just head gaskets, you need them.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well first ever compression checkn on the engine is complete. How fun it was getting to all the glowplugs and getting them out Censored . Fun fun. Numbers read the following from front to back. Turbo side: 428-433-408-420. Driver's side:490(carbon deposit?)-399-410-415. All in all, very educational. Glow plugs looked great and read fine. Thinking now that the water pump is heading out or radiator clogged badly. Truck started fine after sitting 8 hours while I was at work and was able to drive it 7 miles with 1 steep climb and no temp worries before doing all this tonight.
 

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They seldom overheat if the cooling system is cleaned and maintained, Mark - putting a 10k load on it thru hill country will tell a whole new tale.

If yours continues to run cool, I'd do some heavy-duty knocking on wood, knowwhuttImean?!
I've recently pulled an 8000lb set up and it was the same. It is not as bad when the temp outside is warmer but when it's cold outside, I've seen 140deg and with the hood open it feels like cold air blowing from an A/C and the upper intake is cold..


In regards to knocking on wood, what could I be looking at?

Thanks,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update

Completed the dual thermostat install fully last night filled the tank, checked for leaks and let it run for a good 15-20 mins while we cleaned up all the remaining coolant on the garage floor. Drove it around the block and never saw a temp above 180 during the uphill pulls and whatnot. Drove it home and then to dinner, once again never saw temps above prolly 185-190. New 180 thermostats must be working. On the way to work today going up the same hill where it overheated almost last time, the temps spiked again to 240-250. Shut the engine off, opened the resivoir and let the bubbles go crazy and put coolant in. Limped it to work with the "low coolant" light on :confused: and temps below 200. Must be time for head gaskets since the thing must be burning the crap out of some coolant.
 
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