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Discussion Starter #1
Coming from an LLY ro an L5P, has been weird as I'm learning what feels wrong is normal .

That being said, my new question. Scenario below

Start my truck on 28 degree morning. It warms up for 10 minutes and i start driving (easily of course). I drive 5-10 minutes and get to a shop, get out with truck idling still and i hear the idle/rpm climb. Get back in, and put truck in drive and rpm first drops 1 dash line worth.

Sometimes it will stay at higher idle for the rest of the day, eveytime I'm stopped ill hear it. When i shut the truck off, the shut down noise sounds throatier too


(as an aside, when this happens, when i get out of the truck i get a quick smell of burnt rubber (like you get after skid or a bad belt type smell)


Is this all normal or is ti more than that?


Thanks all
 

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Coming from an LLY ro an L5P, has been weird as I'm learning what feels wrong is normal .

That being said, my new question. Scenario below

Start my truck on 28 degree morning. It warms up for 10 minutes and i start driving (easily of course). I drive 5-10 minutes and get to a shop, get out with truck idling still and i hear the idle/rpm climb. Get back in, and put truck in drive and rpm first drops 1 dash line worth.

Sometimes it will stay at higher idle for the rest of the day, eveytime I'm stopped ill hear it. When i shut the truck off, the shut down noise sounds throatier too


(as an aside, when this happens, when i get out of the truck i get a quick smell of burnt rubber (like you get after skid or a bad belt type smell)


Is this all normal or is ti more than that?


Thanks all
Sounds normal. These new trucks will raise idle to reduce soot load. Part of the emissions stuff
 

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The elevated idle is activated when the outside temp is below 32* and engine temp is below 150*. On short drives it may not have enough time to get about 150* so completely normal.
 

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Yes, could be elevated idle but, with the short drive and the fact that he puts it into gear and the idle stays up AND there is a smell tells me it is trying to regen. Your going to need to take the old girl for a good drive at least 20 min to get it to finish. I usually put my DIC to instant fuel economy to watch what the truck is doing, low instant mpg will be the tell tail that its in regen.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
So if I get myself the banks i dash, and I force start a region manually when its need and then take the truck for like a 20 or 30 mile drive while it's going on and I do this let's say every time it shows that it needs to be done, will I then prevent myself from having the maintenance headache down the road or by just doing the shortdriving am I still killing the truck?

What about if i do a force region every 2 weeks regardless? I know its more DEF fluid ill be using but still

My issue is even though I know a gas there would be better I just can't come to terms with the low miles per gallon. My buddy's guess are city driving gets about 8 to 9 miles to the gallon versus I'm getting between 12 and 14
 

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So if I get myself the banks i dash, and I force start a region manually when its need and then take the truck for like a 20 or 30 mile drive while it's going on and I do this let's say every time it shows that it needs to be done, will I then prevent myself from having the maintenance headache down the road or by just doing the shortdriving am I still killing the truck?

What about if i do a force region every 2 weeks regardless? I know its more DEF fluid ill be using but still

My issue is even though I know a gas there would be better I just can't come to terms with the low miles per gallon. My buddy's guess are city driving gets about 8 to 9 miles to the gallon versus I'm getting between 12 and 14
You can do forced regens when you monitor the soot levels. It may take more than 30 miles of driving to complete those regens though
 

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You can turn elevated idle on and off in the settings. Why are you letting your truck run for 10 minutes before you drive it? I could see maybe a minute or so, but ten minutes is quite excessive when its not very cold outside. It will warm up much faster actually driving it. But as stated in your other thread, it isn't a great idea to drive a diesel the way you are. its made to work, not haul itself 10 miles every day. And a gas 1/2 ton will get WAY more than 9 mpg, likely double that or more, plus gas is much cheaper than diesel fuel.
 

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1996 Chevrolet Silverado C3500. 2018 Silverado 2500HD LT
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Picture attached of the menu, "Climate and Air Quality" for reference. It is located in Settings.
 

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I hate how the new winter fronts go on. I don't have a newer truck but traveled with someone who gets a new one each year. I always used one but use bungie cords to hold to the grill so it can be quickly adjusted to allow more air flow
 

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I hate how the new winter fronts go on. I don't have a newer truck but traveled with someone who gets a new one each year. I always used one but use bungie cords to hold to the grill so it can be quickly adjusted to allow more air flow
I've never had an issue with the factory fronts full coverage. Especially now on the L5P with the hood scoop. On my old LLY I could get the intake air temps to get higher than I'd like on a warmer day sitting at a stop light. With the L5P I've never seen coolant or oil temps above 190, and that is usually only on acceleration. Once at driving speed it settles into 183-185 with an intake temperature never more then 10-15 above ambient.
 
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