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New Member - Probably posting in the wrong area too!

8K views 53 replies 10 participants last post by  65madness 
#1 ·
Well I stumbled across this and figured I would throw this out there. First of all if I am posting in wrong area chuck it up to newbieism.

I have found a 94 3/4 4x4 6.5 Suburban with 250k miles that won't start. Going to look at it and won't know what issue is but I believe it is most likely PMD or IP but could be who knows what else.

My plan has been to find a burb and plan a swap eventually to a 12v Cummins and a NV4500 5Speed with a solid front axle switch. Not a huge fan of the IFS.

This will have to be my daily driver so this will be a switch over time as it evolves.

I have had several variations of Cummins diesels over the years and just can't bring myself to finance another vehicle when I can build what I want for way less!

So any guidance, bashing, or claims of lunacy please feel free to volley them my direction. I have a pretty thick skin so I can take the good with the bad.

Thanks and I will post pics once I get a better grasp on it.

Alan.:thumb:
 
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#2 ·
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#3 ·
#10 ·
#4 ·
Hi AND WELCOME TO THE FORUM!
I wont bash, a buddy and I are working on what we call the "CCE" (Chevy Cummins Exploder) It was a 96 6.5 TD K3500 duelly 4x4, stick, the owner it was bought from snapped the crank and we just happened to have a 94 Dodge cummins 2WD auto, so you can figure what had to happen!
 
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#5 ·
Well I stumbled across this and figured I would throw this out there. First of all if I am posting in wrong area chuck it up to newbieism.

I have found a 94 3/4 4x4 6.5 Suburban with 250k miles that won't start. Going to look at it and won't know what issue is but I believe it is most likely PMD or IP but could be who knows what else.

My plan has been to find a burb and plan a swap eventually to a 12v Cummins and a NV4500 5Speed with a solid front axle switch. Not a huge fan of the IFS.

This will have to be my daily driver so this will be a switch over time as it evolves.

I have had several variations of Cummins diesels over the years and just can't bring myself to finance another vehicle when I can build what I want for way less!

So any guidance, bashing, or claims of lunacy please feel free to volley them my direction. I have a pretty thick skin so I can take the good with the bad.

Thanks and I will post pics once I get a better grasp on it.

Alan.:thumb:

Welcome to the boards......
There is Plenty of information on builds and other things to meet your needs. We are all here to help you get your daily driver to where you want it to be with tips, ideas and all sorts of stuff. Keep us up to date :clap:
 
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#6 ·
When I look at one that doesn't run I figure on having to put a engine in since you cant hear it run or feel the transmission work. It would have to have a near perfect body and low miles for me to pay any more than $1500. To have the engine swapped at a shop,with a used one would cost $2500 just for labor. $1500 or more for a used engine. Or if just the injection pump is shot, a new pump is $1200 and labor $500.
The bottom line is that if you pay too much for it to start out with you will always be backwards in it. Book price means nothing if it doesn't run. A junkyard may pay as much as $600 for it.
 
#8 ·
Thanks - I was hoping to pick it up for 800 to 1000. Any more than that and I can find a running one if I look hard enough. This one is in pretty good shape except the paint fading on the hood. Interior needs a thorough cleaning and is bright red...ugh. Other than that it just needs some tlc.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Bought a 94 4x4 6.5 2500 Burb!

Well I found the deal of the century and $1100 buck later I drove it home. Here's what I got:

94 2500 4x4 Silverado Suburban 6.5 Diesel 266k miles. New Trans, Front End rebuild 5 years ago. It was owned by a Auto Diesel Repair shop owner that purchased it in 96 with23,000 miles as a lease trade in. Apparently it was a GM Lease that someone traded back in and was sold on the Used Truck Lot. He put an aftermarket set of Fog Lamps, Push Guard, CB, and remote power to the rear bumper to run a winch for pulling cars up on a trailer. All in all its in very good condition but has the typical PMD issues. It stalls after a while then starts right back up. It has a little bit of blowby coming from the dip stick tube bot nothing terrible.

I figure for the price I paid it will do just fine and be a blast to take the kids camping down to the coast or wherever we choose.
:D
 

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#13 ·
Well I found the deal of the century and $1100 buck later I drove it home. Here's what I got:

94 2500 4x4 Silverado Suburban 6.5 Diesel 266k miles. New Trans, Front End rebuild 5 years ago. It was owned by a Auto Diesel Repair shop owner that purchased it in 96 with23,000 miles as a lease trade in. Apparently it was a GM Lease that someone traded back in and was sold on the Used Truck Lot. He put an aftermarket set of Fog Lamps, Push Guard, CB, and remote power to the rear bumper to run a winch for pulling cars up on a trailer. All in all its in very good condition but has the typical PMD issues. It stalls after a while then starts right back up. It has a little bit of blowby coming from the dip stick tube bot nothing terrible.

I figure for the price I paid it will do just fine and be a blast to take the kids camping down to the coast or wherever we choose.
:D

Nice find for sure !!:coolnana:
 
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#14 ·
Nice! :thumb:

Couple of things you will want to do ASAP:

(1) change out the factory oil cooler lines. The clip on connectors at the block leak and are prone to fail. If they fail, you loose all the oil FAST and bye bye engine.

(2) do this mod: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...l-diesel-engine/268296-ops-relay-install.html. On a 1994, the power to the lift pump runs through the Oil Pressure Switch (OPS). The OPS cannot handle the amp draw and fails (it will still power the Oil Pressure Gauge). The mod takes the OPS out of supplying LP power. An AR143 relay from NAPA works fine. You should also replace the OPS (use only AC Delco part # D1808A). And you will need one of these: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-switch-socket/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=141490

See this link for a really good wiring diagram to help with the install: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ne/594370-ops-mod-assistance.html#post5870338

Other things to check out:

Crank pulley and harmonic balancer. Best to replace these if there is any doubt as to condition.
 
#15 ·
Nice! :thumb:

Couple of things you will want to do ASAP:

(1) change out the factory oil cooler lines. The clip on connectors at the block leak and are prone to fail. If they fail, you loose all the oil FAST and bye bye engine.

(2) do this mod: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...l-diesel-engine/268296-ops-relay-install.html. On a 1994, the power to the lift pump runs through the Oil Pressure Switch (OPS). The OPS cannot handle the amp draw and fails (it will still power the Oil Pressure Gauge). The mod takes the OPS out of supplying LP power. An AR143 relay from NAPA works fine. You should also replace the OPS (use only AC Delco part # D1808A). And you will need one of these: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-switch-socket/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=141490

See this link for a really good wiring diagram to help with the install: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ne/594370-ops-mod-assistance.html#post5870338

Other things to check out:

Crank pulley and harmonic balancer. Best to replace these if there is any doubt as to condition.

Thanks for the great info! I have a lot to learn with the 6.5 but I believe the drivetrain is sound once I work out the gremlins. :thumb:
 
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#16 ·
Nice truck. I like the wooden center console. :thumb:
 
#17 ·
I am not so sure on the wooden console. Its kinda hokey to me but maybe it will grow on me...either than or I just don't mind it enough to change it back to the standard options. Either way just got to get tags and inspection and we are rolling!
 
#18 ·
#19 ·

Nice build! Good info! I took mine over to get inspected and looks like I have to replace 2 tires to pass (Bummer)!

I am also getting the hiccup and stalling pleasures happening when it warms up. :banghead: Going to have to start tracking down some gremlins. The guy who worked on it previously looks like he installed a new IP and a remote PMD. However the PMD was laying on top of inner fender. (not good). So I need to procure a longer cable and remote mount it up in front grill somewhere out of engine bay. I think that might help. Also found out that front suspension - not so rebuilt. Tie Rod Ends toast. Also needs new front shocks. For some reason the temp gauge works only when it wants too. I suspect a loose wire - going to check temp sensor. I think that is the culprit.
 
#21 ·
Remove the Optical Sensor filter harness.
 
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#31 ·
Well I tracked down my stalling gremlin. It turns out that I have a bit of a Frankenstein PMD Harness from injection pump to PMD. It was hacked in no less than 4 different places plus a spliced in additional plug for the grey standyne PMD. I ordered the relocation cable to replace my shoddy wiring harness only to find that I had some sort of different plug on the injector pump side. So I had to splice my brand new relocation cable and completely rewire the harness. I must have been paying attention somewhere as after splicing, crimping, heat shrink, electrical tape, new plastic covering sleeve, and zip ties, it fired right off first time. I have driven it for about 40 miles and no more stalling! Thank god!

Here are a few pics of the Frankestein butcher job on the old harness.
 

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#33 · (Edited)
Well I tracked down my stalling gremlin. It turns out that I have a bit of a Frankenstein PMD Harness from injection pump to PMD. It was hacked in no less than 4 different places plus a spliced in additional plug for the grey standyne PMD. I ordered the relocation cable to replace my shoddy wiring harness only to find that I had some sort of different plug on the injector pump side. So I had to splice my brand new relocation cable and completely rewire the harness. I must have been paying attention somewhere as after splicing, crimping, heat shrink, electrical tape, new plastic covering sleeve, and zip ties, it fired right off first time. I have driven it for about 40 miles and no more stalling! Thank god!

Here are a few pics of the Frankestein butcher job on the old harness.
Nice find. Definitely get rid of that hacked up harness!!..

Double check all your grounds ( key word is ALL). make sure they are clean, nice and tight and not frayed or looking like that harness to your PMD:thumb:
 
#34 ·
Well I ran it another 60 miles and it hiccuped again and died going down the road about 3-4 times. Had to put it in neutral and fired right back up. Hmmmm...Any ideas?
 
#35 ·
Well I ran it another 60 miles and it hiccuped again and died going down the road about 3-4 times. Had to put it in neutral and fired right back up. Hmmmm...Any ideas?
How is the ground from top of the IP? check that connection.
double check your splice that you made to connect it.
Double check the pins on the harness making sure that none were bent in process of connection. Check Fuel filter manager, is it dry inside?

Try installing some clear tubing on the IP inlet to FFM check for air.

concentrate on those areas first and rule things out
 
#36 ·
Well if it's not a glitch in the harness, it's probably PMD time.
That right there was my first symptoms with both colour "stanny" PMD's.
Had the burb shut off like I turned the key at 110km an hour!!!! "that was fun"
It probably will become more frequent over time.
Just from personal experience!
 
#37 ·
It did it after driving it for about an hour. I have it mounted inside bumper now so I know it is cool. Grounds are all wired correctly. I know all connections are good on harness from IP to PMD. Quadruple checked. I will check for loose connections. I have not located the fuel filter assembly on the 6.5 yet. Going to have to check that as well. It did not stumble like a stutter. It was a complete shut off. Either it is short or PMD is going. I hope not the latter. Well running a bit dry.
 
#38 · (Edited)
I have not located the fuel filter assembly on the 6.5 yet.
In the pic you posted holding the harness wire is the Fuel filter manager. look for the round paper ring on metal filter top with black relief valve. Located right next to firewall in center.
Just unscrew black ring counter clock wise and lift straight up. it may be a bit messy as fuel may dribble off filter....
 
#40 ·
Got it. I thought that was it but was not sure.

Thanks.
Changing out the PMD is always a good thing.
can never have enough of those around....
:thumb:
 
#43 ·
I do have a Standyne Grey PMD But would have to file off tabs to see if it even works. Worth a shot.
I did this to mine, so it takes both.
Love the fact I can use what ever one I can get my hands on:thumb:
 
#44 ·
WELCOME BUD
 
#48 ·
I was going to buy one new one and swap out and have my old one as a back up. Plus purchase 2-3 more from JY and test. If they work then they be my backup to my backup. Only use when all else fails! Lol!
 
#52 ·
PMD fails very fast inside the hood.

So, if you get one from JY, then chances are they probably already cooked.
Besides, I don't see too many of 6.5L diesel truck in JY around DFW.

Ever heard of Cash for clunkers, that program crushed a lot of this truck for good.
 
#54 ·
yummmm! chicken dinner!
Sound like ya got 'er goin!
Good to here:thumb:
 
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