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Well I stumbled across this and figured I would throw this out there. First of all if I am posting in wrong area chuck it up to newbieism.

I have found a 94 3/4 4x4 6.5 Suburban with 250k miles that won't start. Going to look at it and won't know what issue is but I believe it is most likely PMD or IP but could be who knows what else.

My plan has been to find a burb and plan a swap eventually to a 12v Cummins and a NV4500 5Speed with a solid front axle switch. Not a huge fan of the IFS.

This will have to be my daily driver so this will be a switch over time as it evolves.

I have had several variations of Cummins diesels over the years and just can't bring myself to finance another vehicle when I can build what I want for way less!

So any guidance, bashing, or claims of lunacy please feel free to volley them my direction. I have a pretty thick skin so I can take the good with the bad.

Thanks and I will post pics once I get a better grasp on it.

Alan.:thumb:
 

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Whistle Pigs Are Cool
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Hi AND WELCOME TO THE FORUM!
I wont bash, a buddy and I are working on what we call the "CCE" (Chevy Cummins Exploder) It was a 96 6.5 TD K3500 duelly 4x4, stick, the owner it was bought from snapped the crank and we just happened to have a 94 Dodge cummins 2WD auto, so you can figure what had to happen!
 
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Well I stumbled across this and figured I would throw this out there. First of all if I am posting in wrong area chuck it up to newbieism.

I have found a 94 3/4 4x4 6.5 Suburban with 250k miles that won't start. Going to look at it and won't know what issue is but I believe it is most likely PMD or IP but could be who knows what else.

My plan has been to find a burb and plan a swap eventually to a 12v Cummins and a NV4500 5Speed with a solid front axle switch. Not a huge fan of the IFS.

This will have to be my daily driver so this will be a switch over time as it evolves.

I have had several variations of Cummins diesels over the years and just can't bring myself to finance another vehicle when I can build what I want for way less!

So any guidance, bashing, or claims of lunacy please feel free to volley them my direction. I have a pretty thick skin so I can take the good with the bad.

Thanks and I will post pics once I get a better grasp on it.

Alan.:thumb:

Welcome to the boards......
There is Plenty of information on builds and other things to meet your needs. We are all here to help you get your daily driver to where you want it to be with tips, ideas and all sorts of stuff. Keep us up to date :clap:
 
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When I look at one that doesn't run I figure on having to put a engine in since you cant hear it run or feel the transmission work. It would have to have a near perfect body and low miles for me to pay any more than $1500. To have the engine swapped at a shop,with a used one would cost $2500 just for labor. $1500 or more for a used engine. Or if just the injection pump is shot, a new pump is $1200 and labor $500.
The bottom line is that if you pay too much for it to start out with you will always be backwards in it. Book price means nothing if it doesn't run. A junkyard may pay as much as $600 for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When I look at one that doesn't run I figure on having to put a engine in since you cant hear it run or feel the transmission work. It would have to have a near perfect body and low miles for me to pay any more than $1500. To have the engine swapped at a shop,with a used one would cost $2500 just for labor. $1500 or more for a used engine. Or if just the injection pump is shot, a new pump is $1200 and labor $500.
The bottom line is that if you pay too much for it to start out with you will always be backwards in it. Book price means nothing if it doesn't run. A junkyard may pay as much as $600 for it.

Thanks - I was hoping to pick it up for 800 to 1000. Any more than that and I can find a running one if I look hard enough. This one is in pretty good shape except the paint fading on the hood. Interior needs a thorough cleaning and is bright red...ugh. Other than that it just needs some tlc.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Bought a 94 4x4 6.5 2500 Burb!

Well I found the deal of the century and $1100 buck later I drove it home. Here's what I got:

94 2500 4x4 Silverado Suburban 6.5 Diesel 266k miles. New Trans, Front End rebuild 5 years ago. It was owned by a Auto Diesel Repair shop owner that purchased it in 96 with23,000 miles as a lease trade in. Apparently it was a GM Lease that someone traded back in and was sold on the Used Truck Lot. He put an aftermarket set of Fog Lamps, Push Guard, CB, and remote power to the rear bumper to run a winch for pulling cars up on a trailer. All in all its in very good condition but has the typical PMD issues. It stalls after a while then starts right back up. It has a little bit of blowby coming from the dip stick tube bot nothing terrible.

I figure for the price I paid it will do just fine and be a blast to take the kids camping down to the coast or wherever we choose.
:D
 

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Well I found the deal of the century and $1100 buck later I drove it home. Here's what I got:

94 2500 4x4 Silverado Suburban 6.5 Diesel 266k miles. New Trans, Front End rebuild 5 years ago. It was owned by a Auto Diesel Repair shop owner that purchased it in 96 with23,000 miles as a lease trade in. Apparently it was a GM Lease that someone traded back in and was sold on the Used Truck Lot. He put an aftermarket set of Fog Lamps, Push Guard, CB, and remote power to the rear bumper to run a winch for pulling cars up on a trailer. All in all its in very good condition but has the typical PMD issues. It stalls after a while then starts right back up. It has a little bit of blowby coming from the dip stick tube bot nothing terrible.

I figure for the price I paid it will do just fine and be a blast to take the kids camping down to the coast or wherever we choose.
:D

Nice find for sure !!:coolnana:
 
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Nice! :thumb:

Couple of things you will want to do ASAP:

(1) change out the factory oil cooler lines. The clip on connectors at the block leak and are prone to fail. If they fail, you loose all the oil FAST and bye bye engine.

(2) do this mod: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/268296-ops-relay-install.html. On a 1994, the power to the lift pump runs through the Oil Pressure Switch (OPS). The OPS cannot handle the amp draw and fails (it will still power the Oil Pressure Gauge). The mod takes the OPS out of supplying LP power. An AR143 relay from NAPA works fine. You should also replace the OPS (use only AC Delco part # D1808A). And you will need one of these: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Oil-pressure-switch-socket/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=141490

See this link for a really good wiring diagram to help with the install: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/594370-ops-mod-assistance.html#post5870338

Other things to check out:

Crank pulley and harmonic balancer. Best to replace these if there is any doubt as to condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice! :thumb:

Couple of things you will want to do ASAP:

(1) change out the factory oil cooler lines. The clip on connectors at the block leak and are prone to fail. If they fail, you loose all the oil FAST and bye bye engine.

(2) do this mod: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/268296-ops-relay-install.html. On a 1994, the power to the lift pump runs through the Oil Pressure Switch (OPS). The OPS cannot handle the amp draw and fails (it will still power the Oil Pressure Gauge). The mod takes the OPS out of supplying LP power. An AR143 relay from NAPA works fine. You should also replace the OPS (use only AC Delco part # D1808A). And you will need one of these: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Oil-pressure-switch-socket/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=141490

See this link for a really good wiring diagram to help with the install: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/594370-ops-mod-assistance.html#post5870338

Other things to check out:

Crank pulley and harmonic balancer. Best to replace these if there is any doubt as to condition.

Thanks for the great info! I have a lot to learn with the 6.5 but I believe the drivetrain is sound once I work out the gremlins. :thumb:
 

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Nice truck. I like the wooden center console. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I am not so sure on the wooden console. Its kinda hokey to me but maybe it will grow on me...either than or I just don't mind it enough to change it back to the standard options. Either way just got to get tags and inspection and we are rolling!
 

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Nice build! Good info! I took mine over to get inspected and looks like I have to replace 2 tires to pass (Bummer)!

I am also getting the hiccup and stalling pleasures happening when it warms up. :banghead: Going to have to start tracking down some gremlins. The guy who worked on it previously looks like he installed a new IP and a remote PMD. However the PMD was laying on top of inner fender. (not good). So I need to procure a longer cable and remote mount it up in front grill somewhere out of engine bay. I think that might help. Also found out that front suspension - not so rebuilt. Tie Rod Ends toast. Also needs new front shocks. For some reason the temp gauge works only when it wants too. I suspect a loose wire - going to check temp sensor. I think that is the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Took a photo of code sticker in glove box. Looks like I have 3.73 gears. Anyone know how to break down this sheet?
 

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