[nvmtnlion]

So the new injectors came today (Thanks JK) and after a quick "any gotchas I need to know about" call to Turbine Doc, I changed the drivers side injectors. Wasn't too bad to do and only took about 40 minutes. Truck started right up, ran a little rough while the drivers side injectors bled out and within a minute, it was purring away.

I didn't do the passenger side yet because I would have run out of daylight before getting things buttoned back up but I plan to do it tomorrow or Saturday.

Even changing 4 of the 8 was night and day difference in how the truck sounds and runs! I am excited to finish the job.

A couple things I noticed and would like to pass along:

1. A cheap flare wrench from Harbor Freight or the like worked MUCH better than an expensive box wrench on the fuel fittings.

2. The Snap-On injector socket made things as easy as they could be.

3. ABSOLUTELY get Kennedy's injector install kit with the no-clamp return lines.

When I am finished this weekend, if anyone needs my injector socket, just let me know. I would be glad to loan it.

 

[edzzed]

you'll have to change your sig to (got) instead of waiting on new injectors.

 

[joispoi]

did you get the stock replacements, or the hi pops?

 

[nvmtnlion]

I got the stock ones. I am sure I will never need the extra oomph of high output injectors. I didn't get out today to change the passenger side. Shooting for tomorrow.

 

[jac6695]

How many miles on the old injectors?

 

[Chicago TDP]

Man, my truck has 162,000 miles, maybe i should get some injectors one of these days.

When I was about to put the engine in my trcuk,I went ahead and pulled all of my injectors apart and put all the parts in a sconic cleaning tank at work. I never could tell if it did anything, made me feel good though.

 

[nvmtnlion]

112,000 miles on original injectors.

 

[94blazer6.5]

Congrats NV, I should really change mine 228,000 on the original injectors . Cool I've been wanting to spend some more time with the truck, but time = money = fun times:ro)

 

[w_huisman]

I changed the left side injectors about 2 months ago, but haven't gotten around to doing the passenger side yet. Curious to hear how it goes for ya, NV.

I got over 200k on the first set. After swapping out the left side, I didn't noticed much of a difference. So I don't expect much a change when I get around to swapping out the right side. But I do hope my startups will be a little easier. I think I got a leaky injector on the right side.

 

[gmctd]

FYI -

Dirty injectors are only a problem when they're within their intrinsic service life.

GM and Stanadyne and Bosch recommend 70000mi replacement, for a reason.

Injector function can be checked by most any Inj Pump repair shop, and should be performed as that milestone is reached, imo.

Problem is = the high pressure fuel, combined with normal pintle movement, erodes the mechanical tolerances in the nozzle.

The greater the mileage, the greater the erosion.

The result is streams of fuel, rather than sprayed mist, being injected into the pre-cup.

The misted fuel spray is prerequisite for complete combustion, absolutely required for efficient power output.

Worst case scenario = the injected stream slowly burns a hole in the piston(s).

Cleaning a hi-mileage set of injectors does not resolve much of anything.

As the injectors wear, the driver just mashes the APP more and more to get the power to the road, not realizing it's happening over a period of time as mileage is accumulated.

Result can be combination of hard starting, reduced fuel mileage, increased ECT and EGT, increased black haze outta the tail pipe.

Increased incident of soot trap clogging up, increasing powdery coating inside tail pipe, smokey haze in headlites of following cars at nite = black smoke = reduced fuel mileage.

Black smoke is lost power.

But, you guys already knew that, right?

 

[joispoi]

FYI -

Dirty injectors are only a problem when they're within their intrinsic service life.

GM and Stanadyne and Bosch recommend 70000mi replacement, for a reason.

Injector function can be checked by most any Inj Pump repair shop, and should be performed as that milestone is reached, imo.

Problem is = the high pressure fuel, combined with normal pintle movement, erodes the mechanical tolerances in the nozzle.

The greater the mileage, the greater the erosion.

The result is streams of fuel, rather than sprayed mist, being injected into the pre-cup.

The misted fuel spray is prerequisite for complete combustion, absolutely required for efficient power output.

Worst case scenario = the injected stream slowly burns a hole in the piston(s).

Cleaning a hi-mileage set of injectors does not resolve much of anything.

As the injectors wear, the driver just mashes the APP more and more to get the power to the road, not realizing it's happening over a period of time as mileage is accumulated.

Result can be combination of hard starting, reduced fuel mileage, increased ECT and EGT, increased black haze outta the tail pipe.

Increased incident of soot trap clogging up, increasing powdery coating inside tail pipe, smokey haze in headlites of following cars at nite = black smoke = reduced fuel mileage.

Black smoke is lost power.

But, you guys already knew that, right?

Can somebody link this to the FAQ's section?

 

[w_huisman]

Hey guys. I starting digging into my right side injectors today. I got the wheel well liner removed, and got most everything disconnected from the turbo, except the inside 10mm bolt on the oil discharge pipe. I can't get that little shiit out no matter what I try! Nearly impossible to get a wrench on, and getting a socket on seems impossible too because of the proximity of the turbo oil discharge pipe.

Sucks ***!

 

[gmctd]

You'll need a hi-quality 6-point box-end to break it loose, then a 1/4" drive 6-point socket and u-joints.

 

[w_huisman]

What do you mean by u-joint?

 

[jac6695]

One of these:

 

[minisub]

Hey guys. I starting digging into my right side injectors today. I got the wheel well liner removed, and got most everything disconnected from the turbo, except the inside 10mm bolt on the oil discharge pipe. I can't get that little shiit out no matter what I try! Nearly impossible to get a wrench on, and getting a socket on seems impossible too because of the proximity of the turbo oil discharge pipe.

Sucks ***!

Yep, that might be the hardest part of the whole job. Got mine off with a 12 pt box end. Very tedious at 1/12 revolution per push...
Pretty sure that is the slotted side of the tube flange, so you don't have to get it all the way off, just loose, and the tube will slide off of the bolt. Makes reassembly easier too.

Put me in the "didn't really notice a big difference" category as concerns performance. Swapped out at 150K miles on the originals. I do notice much less smoke in the rearview at night however, most likely explained by gmctd's post.

 

[Chicago TDP]

I changed my oil return hookup bolts to Metric Allen head cap srews, then I have ball-end allen for a ratchet so it is really easy to take off.

 

[w_huisman]

Thanks 4 the pic James. That's what I figured gmctd was talking about, but I just wanted to make sure.

Yep, that might be the hardest part of the whole job. Got mine off with a 12 pt box end. Very tedious at 1/12 revolution per push...

Pretty sure that is the slotted side of the tube flange, so you don't have to get it all the way off, just loose, and the tube will slide off of the bolt. Makes reassembly easier too.

I was using a ?pt Craftsman wrench on it, and I just can't get it cracked. I've soaked it with PB Blaster and pounded on it with a hammer to try and get it loose, but no luck so far. I'm hoping that spraying it a few more times with PB Blaster throughout the day today will do the trick and it'll come loose when I get back out there after work tonight.

It is the the bolt that's on the slotted side of the tube flange that I'm having a problem with. I noticed that slot during the hour-and-a-half I wasted last night trying to get that darn bolt loose.

 

[w_huisman]

I finally got the turbo off by wedging the heat shield out first, and then loosening the oil return pipe at the bottom where it is hose clamped to a rubber boot and sliding the pipe thru the manifold while lifting the turbo off. Once I got the turbo (with the pipe still connected) on the bench, I got that darn bolt out. It's gonna get a whopping dose of antisieze when it goes back in.

For those of you who have replaced the injectors on this side of the engine without pulling the turbo, you have a be a cross between a magician and a contortionist.

I got the first two injectors installed last night before I had to quit. If things go really well tonight, I should have my truck back on the road.

 

[steiner43511]

make sure you run it first and see that the injectors don't leak before you put everything back together. the set of reman's i bought off ebay leaked right where you split the injector. i didnt notice it till the turbo was back on though.