Only thing youve proven is you have no clear understanding of how lift pumps operate or of Fluid Dynamics, and note I never said the 3/8" supply (suction) line was insufficient to meet the demands of a fairly stock 6.5.Let me quote this again since you avoided the part I actually quoted. It's not a waste of money to upgrade the pump and retain the 3/8 line. Any opinion that disagrees is just an opinion that is going to mislead 99% of the people on here.
I have a 11sec 383 small block street car as well. And it has 3/4" fuel line with a 280gph pump. But that has nothing to do with my 6.5 Diesel.
Been there, done that too, few dozens times if I count all my family and friends 'projects' Ive participated in too. Performed at least a half dozen of my very own frame off retro-rods that unfortunitely took place long before the advent of youtube, or the internet, or digital camera's, or cellphones now loaded with all those capabilities. All that stuff, even scan tools were fantastic futuristic science fiction crap and all of my photo albums documenting them builds are somewhere in storage. My last purpose built 'hotrod' was totalled in the early '90's by an inattentive teenager who missed a stop sign. 3 years of blood, sweat, and tears distroyed in an instant. Even though I recovered all my $$$, thank goodness for over-ride insurance protection by USAA, but the experience broke my spirit so I havent built another 'Boulevard Bruiser' for myself since. Given it much thought though. And Ive been distracted raisng a family and handling several business's, but now that we are somewhat empty nesters again and I have the wifes full blessing, I am thinking 'bout building another. Cant believe Im actually seriously contemplating a 6.5L Turbo Diesel powerplant this last time, most likely.
ultra black is great... but it's gotta be put on thin.I also have an oil leak on both valve covers. I had them off and sealed them with Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker. I used half of a 3.35oz tube on each one and I thought I had plenty on there but I missed a spot apparently. I put it on, sat the VC's on the heads, and let it tack up for about 10 minutes for each one before snugging down the bolts.
Once I get the oil leak straightened out, I think the next thing on the list will be the harmonic damper and crank pulley just for peace of mind.
That area on a SBC has no compression on it, so it's just surface tension holding it there, and your method would work great for that... The tin valve covers on the 6.5 need precise application and even torque to hold.Roger that, thanks. I've used it the way I described for the "China wall" on a small block Chevy intake and it always worked fine. I'll do it that way for round 2. Sucks that I have to pull the intake and injector lines again.
NO...I'll check that out thanks.
I have a set of cork gaskets on hand. I'm guessing its not even worth trying those?