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Discussion Starter #1
So I have been slowly working towards my turbo swap. Have already acquired raceday's install kit, and manual wastegate control. I had planned on a CKO turbo but found what I thought was an excellent deal on a true Holset. The Holset was said to be NEW and it does appear to be new, clean as can be and still has sticker over info plate. Has the 14cm exhaust housing with a 7 blade billet compressor wheel. The best part I didn't pay a whole lot more than I would have for a CKO. The issue is I feel it has excessive shaft play for a brand new turbo. That being said this is the only new turbo I have ever messed with so not much to compare it to. It has 0 in and out play which I know is a good thing. But it defiantly has side to side play, it doesn't rub or anything but most defiantly has movement. I read somewhere that once it has oil in it this will go away?? It's stupid cold in Indiana at the time and the install isn't going to happen until it warms up. I was just wondering if I need to try to return this thing or if its normal? I'd hate to have a true Holset that's got more slop than a CKO. I wanted to go Holset for piece of mind, not sure at the moment I have that piece of mind.
 

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First off, does it have "14" cast inside the turbine flange ??

Where did you find this turbo??

The shaft will have some looseness to it dry, the oil pressure will/should tighten it up..

Can you post some close up pics of it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes its stamped 14cm inside exhaust housing. Here are the only pics I have at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The numbers stamped on the housing all seem to jive with Holset numbers from what I can tell.
 

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A little in and out play is normal. Very slight side to side play is normal as well. You should be able to feel the side to side play, not see it.
 

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Also, if you are wanting more whistle out of the turbo, take off the silencer ring around the inside of compressor housing
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can see and feel side to side play, no in and out. Anybody else have input on this? He said he will swap me out with another. But I'd hate to pay $40 in shipping if the one I have is OK.
 

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Side play is normal. As long as the wheels don't rub it's O.K. The side clearance is from clearance in the turbo center housing and the bearing. Typically the shaft to bearing clearance is .0015" to .002" The bearing to housing is about .0015" to .003". When you add the clearances up you can see you will have some slack. The engine oil pressure will "float" the bearing and shaft. The assembly will then center itself and spin true to center.
I use to build turbos. We had one application on a rather larger turbo that always felt sloppy due to factory tolerances. I finally cured the rebuilt sloppy problem by Installing the bearing with Vaseline. Never had any more loose turbo shaft complaints. Vaseline took up the slack till they fired'r up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys. I found Holset's tolerances, says .0013-.0020" for side to side shaft play. I'll test it with the dial indictor tomorrow. It does not touch the housings, with the wheel pulled all the way to one side I could still get a .005" feeler gauge between wheel and housing. I just remember the CKO turbo catching a lot of flack because one member received one with excessive shaft slop. Didn't remember if it was a radial or axial problem he had with his turbo. Its definitely a new turbo and has no in and out movement, so I'm hoping I'm over reacting. I was just thinking a new Holset was going to be a lot tighter than my wore out GM4. I had also read about the oil tightening things up. So I'll measure tomorrow and report those numbers. All you guys with the CKO turbo's, You have much side to side shaft play?
 

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Thanks guys. I found Holset's tolerances, says .0013-.0020" for side to side shaft play. ?
That's probably .013" to .020" measured with a feeler gauge on the compressor wheel. Think you added a "0" to many. Specs I gave above were my "best guess" and actual bearing clearance. Side clearance to be accurate must be done by taking the turbo apart and measuring the components.


Feeler gauge method requires pushing the wheel to the side and measuring clearance and then pushing the other way and checking. Subtract one from the other.

Dial indicator will be more elaborate.

Something looks terribly wrong with your turbo. Most inlet diffusers match up better with the compressor wheel, yours has a very sharp edge?
 

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On my second view of your turbo the inlet housing looks like it may be tapered in. Looks squared off in photo.

I would not use a spring wastegate. Modify the one you have to suit, or get one with the appropriate pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Why not use the spring wastegate? I was afraid the one with the turbo would build too much boost, where the spring one I can set wherever I want.
 

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side to side play is also based on how much force is applied to make it happen, i have actually read about guys thinking they had to much, and it turned out they were forcing it to much and had actually dinted the brass bushings.... rule of thumb for me is to gently place only my thumb on the end of the shaft and gently move it side to side, and only after i have pre-oiled, and spun it a few rotations first...J&J
 

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Why not use the spring wastegate? I was afraid the one with the turbo would build too much boost, where the spring one I can set wherever I want.
The factory wastegate is way more precise verses one that blows off with drive pressure. Quite sure the OEM wastegate is set for a higher pressure. Sometimes they can be tweaked with the threaded rod to something useable. Easy to set, just need a air regulator and a low pressure gauge and you can set boost pressure basically on the bench. Just when the valve opens about quarter wide open will be the pressure on the truck. Final tweaking is done on the truck.

The spring pop off type valve setup has a gradual pop-off. In effect if your running close to desired pressure the thing has been open for some time which in my opinion is inefficient. So each his on, I'll stick with the factory on this one. Nice purchase!
 

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with any dual volute, gated, turbine housing that is not cross-drilled, even the boost controlled wastegate begins to "creep" open well before the maximum pressure on the pod is achieved, due to it only gating one volute.... most of the reasoning in using a spring-gate mechanical styled actuator in this app. is to leave extra space as to not interfere with the airbox/intake ducting.....J&J..
 
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