RAREBU M-80 said:Not looking forward to the first tow at 50 mph for 500 miles.
RAREBU M-80 said:Thanks again, Bronco. I'll be using mine to haul my boat and some cars. Not looking forward to the first tow at 50 mph for 500 miles. I hape the CD player works, gonna be a long trip.
It does state in this document from Eaton which maufactures the G80 Rear differential, which I belive is the Differential in most of the 2500/3500 Duramax 01-04. I may be incorrect so consult your owners manual or build ticket / line setting ticket. I am sure others will chime in if I am off base on this. Hope it helps! P.S. My truck is on order, and I can't wait to break it in myself!!!
"GM introduced the new body style in 1998. At the same time they upgraded
the differential and changed to a synthetic lube. The G80 is specifically
designed to give ultimate performance with this lube, and the lube contains
special additives that help reduce slip stick that occurs between the
clutches. the GM synthetic lube typically runs about 100+ degrees cooler
than mineral base lube, which is better if you do allot of towing or heavy
hauling. I would recommend that you stay with the GM synthetic, not Mobil 1.
If you don't tow or haul you could use the pre 1998 mineral lube without
degrading performance of the differential. this would be a cheaper option
but require more lube changes. "
"Axle tolerances of the 1/2 ton trucks are very tight. The recommended
procedure was to change lube after 500 miles of heavy towing, which would is
considered a break in period. This breaking period generates high heat
conditions in the axle which was found to degrade the synthetic beyond the
point of mineral lube. After the 500 mile lube change, the axle is broken
in and does not generate the high heat. If you use GM synthetic after the
break-in period, it can be considered "lube for life", although some say to
change it at 40,000 - 50,000 mile intervals."
"If you don't tow, don't worry about the oil change as it a waste of money."
"If your truck is pre 1998 or the old style, it comes with mineral lube. IN
that case you need to stay with mineral because the seals are designed to
work with it. If you changed from mineral to synthetic you'll cause your
seals to swell and eventually leak. It's ok to go from synthetic to
mineral because you won't cause swelling. many of your stop leak
chemicals effect seals in this manner, resulting in a short term fix but a
long term problem."
"Back in November, I received the following:
"From Mr. Ralph Holmquist of Eaton, the maker of the locking differential:
"The maintenance schedule for the rear axle was developed by American Axle &
Manufacturing and GM truck based on multiple tests. The Eaton locker does
not require additional maintenance nor does it add heat to the lube. The
lube will darken due to the carbon wear on the clutch surfaces, much the
same as a disc brake pad & rotor. This does not damage axle components such
as seals or bearings. However, a new axle can produce excessive
temperatures (plus 350 degrees F) due to the ring & pinion breaking in that
will break the lube additives down. Avoid high loads, trailer towing and
high speed extended driving during the initial break in of the vehicle.
After the break in period axle temps will level at a much lower figure.
Lube changes are a good idea because the additives are replenished and
contaminates such as casting sand are eliminated. The axle is filled at the
factory with a synthetic 75w90 GL5 rating made by Texaco under part # 2276.
The GM service # is 12378261. This is the only l
hanks, that's what I'm gonna do. So tonight I'l be reading the GM manual and find out what all the buttons are for..........LMAONoWake200 said:The bottom line....it is already "broken in". Hook-up and go!! and enjoy the new truck.
Next thing we'll all be talking about is not driving the truck because the tires might blowout or go flat!
I am one of the MOST ANAL guys out there...I want everything done right at 101% everytime...but we can sometimes over do it by obsessing (wich I have done many time). Just flow the book and us common sense.
I'm with ya rickles! Except there are guys that will argue they use the same fuel everybody else is using and have still had injectors go bad.Edited by: hootrickles04 said:MY GOD IF YOU LISTEN TO EVERYTHING YOU HEAR ON HERE YOU WOULDNT BUY A DODGE FORD OR CHEVY...YA GOT REDNECK GO RUNNING FUEL FROM HIS RUSTED TANKS WITH NO LID ON THE FARM OR FROM JO BOBS 56 YEAR OLD STATION WITH THE SAME TANKS FROM THE GREAT DEPRESSION AND EVERYBODY WANTS TO KNOW WHY THE FUEL INJECTORS SUCK..OR OTHERS THAT GOT A LEMON LIKE I CANT REMEMBER HIS NAME THAT NOW DRIVES A DODGE AND FLOATS FROM ROOM TO ROOM TALKING HIS DOOM AND GLOOM 24/7 THAT REALLY REALLY NEEDS TO BE IN THE TDR FOR DODGE PEOPLE SO HE CAN TALK ABOUT HOW NICE IT IS TO CHANGE GEARS ON HIS 45K TRUCK SINCE DODGE DONT HAVE A AUTO TRANSMISSION THAT WILL HOLD UP..IN MY OPNION ITS CALLED USER ERRER FOR MOST INJECTOR PROBS