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Discussion Starter #1
Just joined the site and have spent many hours reading everything. I think I made a mistake buying a diesel. Everyone talks how tuff they are, long lasting....etc. Seems like they need more care than a gas powered truck. Am I wrong?
 

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RAREBU M-80,


Good to hear from you. I am new to whole diesel seen my self. I have owned my Dmax since March03 and have racked up 21k miles. Every vehicle is going to need standard maintenace. I do not think the Dmax needs anymore than any other vehicle. As a matter of fact they have done alot of things to make it very easy for you to maintain your vehicle. Front and rear axels have both a fill plug and a drain plug so you do not need to pull the cover and reseal. The tranny has a spin off auxiallary filter which is very easy to change. The main filter is also easy to change due to a drain plug in the Allison pan. The engine has one serpintine belt that is probally good for well over 100k. It is also easy to change. The air filter comes out with 4 screws. It also last a very long time and has external indicators to let you know how it is doing. The fuel filter is a little tricky to gain access to but once you do it a couple of times it is no problem. The fuel filter also has its own water indicator and petcok valve. Very nice. The fuel system also has a fail proof vent/prime system for use after changing the filter or accidently running out of fuel(which you don't want to let happen) The fuel warning indiactor will help you avoid this. The oil filter is very easy to access and remove. There is even an oil indicator system that tells you when to change your oil based on engine revolutions. Can't go wrong there. The absolute biggest concern is the fuel injector system. It is not that it is faulty or even unreliable. It is truly the price of this repair, if ever needed that is scaring the begesus out of people. Unless you are a fatcat or an idiot with your money, nobdy wants to spend a possible 5400.00 dollars for R.R. on 8 fuel injectors. This is not a new problem. If you read past post and I mean past, as in September/October you will see that the vendors were talking about fuel injector problems long ago. A statistic you will never find on a website like this is how many problems accur on stock trucks versus modified trucks. There are to many people advertising here to get to the bottom of any issue. You just have to do your homework and choose wisely. Go stock and you can't go wrong. Play and be willing to pay.Edited by: Bronco
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Bronco, looks like I'll be reading and hanging out here a lot. Just picked up a 03 Chevy with a duramax, only has 5000 miles on it. According to eric's maintenance list i've got some work to do. Talk to you soon
 

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RAREBU M-80,


Eric's maintenace list is very, very thourough. It by far exceeds factory reccomendations. Not saying it is wrong or bad just saying make sure at a minimum you do what is in the service manual. In my own personal opinion, I would do the following. Change the following fluids. Front/rear axel. Replace with Mobil One 75-90 synthetic. It is alot cheaper than the GM grapejuice. I chose to use a cheaper fluid and change more often. I have been known to put my vehicle in situations that could possibly contaminate my axel fluids. If you put in fluid that is 28.00/quart you would not want to change it after driving through a stream. Mobil one is only 6.50/quart. Change your engine oil. I would not go to synthetic yet. Just make sure you use 15-40 that is specifically engineered for diesels. Change the oil filter as well. Change the internal Allison filter and external filter. Replace all tranny fluid with Dex 111 or synthetic. It should take somewhere around 12 quarts if you do not flush. Use your dipstick. The Allison pan gasket is reusable. Just clean and retorque correctly. You could also change the transfer case fluid in you want. I have not yet. I would check my tire air pressure and set all 4 corners at 65 P.S.I. (assuming you have load E) The rear will need more if you are heavily loaded. You might want to pull of your stock shocks and inspect. A good quality aftermarket shock such as Billistein, Rancho or Edelbrock will make your truck ride smoother and handle better. I would sugest that you read all T.S.B's. This will allow you to monitor your truck and take it in for warranty work as soon as a problem starts. If you do not read the T.S.B's you will not always recoginize problems promptly. I had better stop now. If you read the postings on this site you will learn more than you ever needed to.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks again, Bronco. I'll be using mine to haul my boat and some cars. Not looking forward to the first tow at 50 mph for 500 miles. I hape the CD player works, gonna be a long trip. Well where is a good place to get maintenance parts? Not sure if the average parts place is gonna have allison filers. not sure of a lot right now........lol
 

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RAREBU M-80 said:
Not looking forward to the first tow at 50 mph for 500 miles.

Your truck is already broken in. I do not think you have to worry about the 50mph thing. That is only for the first 500 miles on the engine....they also do not recomend towing durning the first 500m. But you should be fine towing with your new truck. (w/ 5,000m)


Let me know if I am off with this one...do not want to pass along bad info.


Your truck is strong do not worry about it. Just take care of her and she will take care of you 10times over.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not sure if the first owner towed anything with the truck. I was thinking I should treat it as brand new do to the rear diff temperature post I was reading. I could be wrong.
 

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Welcome to this forum, as a new member I would also like to pass along information I have found, read or researched on this or other forums.


RAREBU M-80 said:
Thanks again, Bronco. I'll be using mine to haul my boat and some cars. Not looking forward to the first tow at 50 mph for 500 miles. I hape the CD player works, gonna be a long trip.


It does state in this document from Eaton which maufactures the G80 Rear differential, which I belive is the Differential in most of the 2500/3500 Duramax 01-04. I may be incorrect so consult your owners manual or build ticket / line setting ticket. I am sure others will chime in if I am off base on this. Hope it helps! P.S. My truck is on order, and I can't wait to break it in myself!!!


Fran


from Eaton:
"GM introduced the new body style in 1998. At the same time they upgraded
the differential and changed to a synthetic lube. The G80 is specifically
designed to give ultimate performance with this lube, and the lube contains
special additives that help reduce slip stick that occurs between the
clutches. the GM synthetic lube typically runs about 100+ degrees cooler
than mineral base lube, which is better if you do allot of towing or heavy
hauling. I would recommend that you stay with the GM synthetic, not Mobil 1.
If you don't tow or haul you could use the pre 1998 mineral lube without
degrading performance of the differential. this would be a cheaper option
but require more lube changes. "
"Axle tolerances of the 1/2 ton trucks are very tight. The recommended
procedure was to change lube after 500 miles of heavy towing, which would is
considered a break in period. This breaking period generates high heat
conditions in the axle which was found to degrade the synthetic beyond the
point of mineral lube. After the 500 mile lube change, the axle is broken
in and does not generate the high heat.
If you use GM synthetic after the
break-in period, it can be considered "lube for life", although some say to
change it at 40,000 - 50,000 mile intervals."
"If you don't tow, don't worry about the oil change as it a waste of money."

"If your truck is pre 1998 or the old style, it comes with mineral lube. IN
that case you need to stay with mineral because the seals are designed to
work with it. If you changed from mineral to synthetic you'll cause your
seals to swell and eventually leak. It's ok to go from synthetic to
mineral because you won't cause swelling. many of your stop leak
chemicals effect seals in this manner, resulting in a short term fix but a
long term problem."


And this,
"Back in November, I received the following:
"From Mr. Ralph Holmquist of Eaton, the maker of the locking differential:
"The maintenance schedule for the rear axle was developed by American Axle &
Manufacturing and GM truck based on multiple tests. The Eaton locker does
not require additional maintenance nor does it add heat to the lube. The
lube will darken due to the carbon wear on the clutch surfaces
, much the
same as a disc brake pad & rotor. This does not damage axle components such
as seals or bearings. However, a new axle can produce excessive
temperatures (plus 350 degrees F) due to the ring & pinion breaking in that
will break the lube additives down. Avoid high loads, trailer towing and
high speed extended driving during the initial break in of the vehicle.
After the break in period axle temps will level at a much lower figure.
Lube changes are a good idea because the additives are replenished and
contaminates such as casting sand are eliminated. The axle is filled at the
factory with a synthetic 75w90 GL5 rating made by Texaco under part # 2276.
The GM service # is 12378261. This is the only l
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So basically, even though the trunk has 5000 miles on it, after a 500 miles tow, keeping it around 50 mph, change the rear diff fluid. Correct?
 

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RAREBU M-80, nope, you don't need to do the change after tow now. The high temperatures and real precaution for towing are in the first 500 miles on a new rearend. All are set up and require some "run-in" when final "self-lapping" occurs and some metallic wear products are released. This produces heat even unloaded that could "cook" the lube but really is an issue if the first 500 are loaded or towing. At this point, you're past that and just need to make a change to ensure those early metallic wear products are out and regular ones after that.
 

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Thats the way I read it.


I do believe in another post somewhere that I read it also said to stop in 1/2 hour inttervals during this first 500 mile break in period to allow the differntial to cool. Hope this helps.


Fran.
 

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MY GOD IF YOU LISTEN TO EVERYTHING YOU HEAR ON HERE YOU WOULDNT BUY A DODGE FORD OR CHEVY...YA GOT REDNECK JO RUNNING FUEL FROM HIS RUSTED TANKS WITH NO LID ON THE FARM OR FROM JO BOBS 56 YEAR OLD STATION WITH THE SAME TANKS FROM THE GREAT DEPRESSION AND EVERYBODY WANTS TO KNOW WHY THE FUEL INJECTORS SUCK..OR OTHERS THAT GOT A LEMON LIKE I CANT REMEMBER HIS NAME THAT NOW DRIVES A DODGE AND FLOATS FROM ROOM TO ROOM TALKING HIS DOOM AND GLOOM 24/7 THAT REALLY REALLY NEEDS TO BE IN THE TDR FOR DODGE PEOPLE SO HE CAN TALK ABOUT HOW NICE IT IS TO CHANGE GEARS ON HIS 45K TRUCK SINCE DODGE DONT HAVE A AUTO TRANSMISSION THAT WILL HOLD UP..IN MY OPNION ITS CALLED USER ERRER FOR MOST INJECTOR PROBS Edited by: rickles04
 

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OMG Rickles, you got the P-NUT virus on your computer!!
 

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BMDMAX for some reason that's just funny as hell and I can't stop laughing.



Josh
 

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That post definitely needed a chill pill.....I felt like I was getting beat with a stick just reading it.
 

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The bottom line....it is already "broken in". Hook-up and go!! and enjoy the new truck.



Next thing we'll all be talking about is not driving the truck because the tires might blowout or go flat!



I am one of the MOST ANAL guys out there...I want everything done right at 101% everytime...but we can sometimes over do it by obsessing (wich I have done many time
). Just flow the book and us common sense.


Have fun!Edited by: NoWake200
 

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Discussion Starter #18
NoWake200 said:
The bottom line....it is already "broken in". Hook-up and go!! and enjoy the new truck.



Next thing we'll all be talking about is not driving the truck because the tires might blowout or go flat!



I am one of the MOST ANAL guys out there...I want everything done right at 101% everytime...but we can sometimes over do it by obsessing (wich I have done many time
). Just flow the book and us common sense.


Have fun!
hanks, that's what I'm gonna do. So tonight I'l be reading the GM manual and find out what all the buttons are for..........LMAO
 

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BMDMAX said:
That post definitely needed a chill pill.....I felt like I was getting beat with a stick just reading it.

That is funny as hell!!
 

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rickles04 said:
MY GOD IF YOU LISTEN TO EVERYTHING YOU HEAR ON HERE YOU WOULDNT BUY A DODGE FORD OR CHEVY...YA GOT REDNECK GO RUNNING FUEL FROM HIS RUSTED TANKS WITH NO LID ON THE FARM OR FROM JO BOBS 56 YEAR OLD STATION WITH THE SAME TANKS FROM THE GREAT DEPRESSION AND EVERYBODY WANTS TO KNOW WHY THE FUEL INJECTORS SUCK..OR OTHERS THAT GOT A LEMON LIKE I CANT REMEMBER HIS NAME THAT NOW DRIVES A DODGE AND FLOATS FROM ROOM TO ROOM TALKING HIS DOOM AND GLOOM 24/7 THAT REALLY REALLY NEEDS TO BE IN THE TDR FOR DODGE PEOPLE SO HE CAN TALK ABOUT HOW NICE IT IS TO CHANGE GEARS ON HIS 45K TRUCK SINCE DODGE DONT HAVE A AUTO TRANSMISSION THAT WILL HOLD UP..IN MY OPNION ITS CALLED USER ERRER FOR MOST INJECTOR PROBS
I'm with ya rickles! Except there are guys that will argue they use the same fuel everybody else is using and have still had injectors go bad.Edited by: hoot
 
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