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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my 1993 Chevy 3500... Auto trans, 4wd, 6.5L-TD. It has 130K on it and 1,200 hours on the engine, it was a fleet vehicle and had a pintle hook on the back though I don't know if it was used or what it was used for.

I just bought it from a friend and it runs great. I was told that it has trouble going into overdrive but did sometimes go into overdrive. I picked it up last night and it never went into OD. I drove it for about an hour, mostly highway at 55mph with the engine revving pretty high. It shifts a little hard into second (around 15mph) and shift smooth as silk into third (around 25mph). There are signs of a small ATF fluid leak, I'm not sure from where. The trans fluid is up to level, smells fair and is still red. The temp gauge in the insturment cluster does not work, all other gauges do however. The glow plugs are all new and though it start right up, even in the cold, it runs rough for ~30 seconds and the glow plug light will sometimes flicker on and off during this time. Also the interior light does not work due to either a fuse or wiring. The truck was stolen and though there appears to be no related damage, a couple wires around the steering column were cut to take the CB radios. The cut wires appear to only be ones from the radios and not any of the truck's OEM wiring.

I did plenty of searching and it sounds most likely that I simply have to troubleshoot the problem with the coolant temp gauge/sensor. I also read about a temp sensor in the trans pan but didn't see any way to test it. I plan to pull the trans pan to change the filter and fluid, can someone tell me how to test this sensor?
I'd also appreciate it if someone could tell me how to tell which trans I have.
Lastly, how do I tell if the torque converter is locking up? This is my first automatic truck so I don't quite know what I'm suppose to feel it do.

Thank you!
 

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Do you know how to check for codes? your truck might tell you whats wrong with it. You most certainly have the 4l80e in a 1 ton but if you count the number of the bolts on that hold the pan on that will tell you, just off hand I believe the 4l80e has 17 and the 4l60e has 16. The 4l80e is typically a very good trans. To check the lockup, drive at a contant 55mph minimum on a flat bit of road, then lightly touch the brake pedle you should feel something like a gear change and the rpm's should go up approx 200 to 300. Then release the brake peddle within a few second you should feel anouther shift, that being the torque converter locking up the rpm's should drop 200 to 300 rpm. Remember to keep throttle the same wihile doing this proceedure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't know how to check the codes. If you could tell me how, and where to look up what they mean I'd really appreciate it!

I checked the coolant temp sensor last night and it's plugged in but I need to find the resistance value so I can test it.
 

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Give this link a try http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16399
It sounds a little complicted the first time you try it but its very easy once you get it figured out. If you have any questions after reading or giving it a try feel free to ask and let us know what codes you get if any. Its the best place to start and may give you a quick answer to your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
excellent, just what I was looking for!
I'll give it a try this weekend and report back with my findings.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I checked both the OBD and the coolant temp sensor.

The OBD read code 22, accelarator pedal position 1 circuit low. I looked under the hood and sure enough the sensor is busted up. There were no other codes. Will this cause no overdrive?

I checked the coolant temp sensor on the front, driver side of the engine and it read ~500K cold and ~100K warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was wrong, the busted "sensor" is the fast idle solenoid.

I did find on another forum that the code 22 will cause no overdrive.
I pulled the battery cables for a while to clear the computer and took it for a drive, second gear was fine and over drive worked!

While searching here I found that the temp gauge has a different sending unit from the computer. The contacts on the computers sending unit (by the thermostat) were *really* gummed up so I cleaned them with some carb cleaner.

Since my temp gauge wasn't working I tried grounding the wire to the gauge and the gauge pegged high... so now I know to replace that sending unit :)
 
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