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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well this may be really simple or more complicated, I have had to jump the 15 amp fuse that starts the ignition and is also for the Turning Signal and backup lights to the Stop Hazard 15 amp fuse ever since it went south on me. The other day I tried to start it up and the ignition fuse blew, so I replaced it, but now the jump doesn't work anymore. I put a multimeter on their and found only about 1 or 2 amps there, apparently, the only place I'm getting about 11.4 amps is the spot where the 15 amp fuse for the horn and dimmer, when I try put a fuse in it blows every time. The overhead lights are connected with that fuse, and when I move the switches on each light, the amps fluctuate. The outside lights work, headlights, tail lights, running lights all work, getting about 11.93 to the starter, if that helps. I'm clueless, and unless I figure it out, I'm not going to get those glows hot enough to get her started, Is the fuse block shot, any ideas?

Thanks
 

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sounds like you need to start checking and cleaning connections startign at the battery, check all your fusable links. don't rule out ground wires either. grounds are just as important as positive. if it was blowing the ignition fuse, you might have a ignition switch going bad, causing high amps, which blows fuses, and then burns wires when you hotwire around them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Making some progress, still need some advice.

Ok, I found out what was wrong, I had attached a cable from the Positive terminal on the cable to the Isolator, it looks like that was overpowering the fuse. As soon as I disconnected the cable the fuse stopped blowing, so now the horn and overhead lamps work, but I still have to jump one fuse to the other for the ignition and horn to work. I tried to crank it today, but it looks like the batteries didn't have enough juice and all I got was mostly clicks, so I'm taking the batteries tomorrow to have them charged. I noticed that the vehicle power meter on the dashboard stopped working, and I think the glow plug light was staying on, could be the cold, or maybe lack of power? I also noticed that the hazards are not blinking, only staying on, also the turning signals aren't working. I'm thinking the flasher maybe needs to be replace?

Well thanks for the help, I hope to get it started by the end of the month.

I almost forgot, there was a cable attached from the battery to the isolator, and I thought I had reconnected it properly, but obviously I did not, does anyone know how that would be hooked up? Someone once said that had something to do with grounding the alternator, which I think might be shot, unless it's because I don't have the cable connected properly?
Thanks

Got the batteries charged and, I'm going to hold off till it gets warmer since the glows need to heat up and I also need all the cranking amps I can get and I know how cold affects a batter, any idea what the outdoor temp would have to be to start?

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's a lot of bones!

WoW 800 bones, well if I can start the rig and move it I'll be happy, I'll worry about the block later. What about trying to start it, should I wait till I got at least 70 degrees outside or can I try it with 20 degrees less? Thanks
 
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