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164 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So im wanting to delete my whole egr system from my 94 6.5l td and Just wanted to see if anybody had pictures of it and also what all i can remove(like the vacuum pump and what hoses i can plug).

Thanks everyone.:D

4,316 Posts
Unless you have a mechanical boost control you need the vacume pump to control the wastgate on the turbo. If you plan on keeping the stock chip you have to keep all the solenoids connected or it will throw a code. I simply plugged the vacume line running to the egr valve itself and left the rest all there and hooked up. I changed the "s" intake for a "F" intake. If you get a "F" or other chip you can remove the egr and the 2 egr solenoids.

She Don't Smoke!
4,690 Posts
Don't really have pictures of the complete EGR delete as there are a couple ways to do it...

Items Needed:
  • 3/8" metric socket set
  • Computer Reflash (depending on what you do - read further)
  • An "F" Intake (Method 1)
  • Dremel (optional)
  • Frost Plug (Method 2)
Items you can Delete:
  • Vacuum Pump (If TurboMaster installed)
  • EGR (If using F intake)
  • All Vacuum Lines
  • EGR Solenoids (read further for more information about this)
Removing Vacuum Pump
  • Remove Serpentine Belt
  • Unbolt AC Compressor (96+ not needed)
    • On 96+ Just unbolt the Vacuum pump through the holes in the pulley
  • Unbolt AC Compressor Bracket and unbolt the Vacuum pump from it (3 bolts)
  • Remove the vacuum lines from the vacuum pump to the solenoids, and to the wastegate/EGR.
  • Install the AC Compressor and the Bracket
Solenoids and Sensors
  • On 94-95 Models
    • If you have a reflashed EPROM that has EGR Delete function on it, you can remove all three solenoids completely.
    • If you have stock programming or an aftermarket reflashed EPROM that does not have an EGR Delete function you may have to keep the sensors plugged into the computer. You can try to unplug them but it may throw an Check Engine light.
  • On 96+ Models
    • "I think" you have to have a reflashed computer or else it will throw codes/check engine light. I'm not 100% sure on this but you can try removing the vacuum lines from the solenoids and see what happens.
    • If the truck throws a check engine light it shouldn't hurt the trucks performance but you will have the annoying orange light up all the time.
  • Those trucks that are equipped with a BARO sensor, you must keep this sensor plugged into the computer or you will get a check engine light.
  • You can also try to get a donor computer from an F truck, but you have to make sure the codes on the eprom (on 94-95) and all the specs are the same on the donor ecm as your truck.
Serpentine Belt Sizes
  • 1994-1995: 101" - 101.5"
  • 1996+: 99.5"
  • Basic rule of thumb is ~1" shorter then stock belt size when removing vacuum pump.
Method 1: (Using an F Intake)
  • Remove the top 6 bolts, unclamp the boot and unbolt the bar that connects to the turbo. Then remove the upper intake
  • Remove all the bolts from the lower intake. Keep note on how the injector line clamps are placed and where the longer and shorter bolts are placed. Then remove the old intake.
  • Remove the old gasket and replace with a new gasket. No sealer should be required for this, just the gasket.
  • Put the new intake in place, making sure not to mess up the gasket you just installed. It "may" take some maneuvering to get it in the right place.
  • Bolt down the lower intake to the correct specs and correct sequence. See attached picture for information. Upper Intake Torque Spec: 31 ft lbs.
    • Make sure you install all bolt lengths in the correct holes and make sure you install the injector line clamps.
  • Install upper intake (and new gasket) and connect/clamp the boot and bolt down the bar that connects to the turbo. Install all 6 bolts on the upper intake, torqued to 17 ft lbs.
Method 2: (Blocking off EGR)
  • Remove the top 6 bolts, unclamp the boot and unbolt the bar that connects to the turbo. Then remove the upper intake.
  • Install the frost plug in the middle hole where the EGR sits on the lower intake.
    • Click Here for information about frost plug. Here is another thread.
  • This would be a good time to de-web the upper intake out for better flow.
  • Install upper intake (and new gasket) and connect/clamp the boot and bolt down the bar that connects to the turbo. Install all 6 bolts on the upper intake, torqued to 17 ft lbs.
    • You will have to keep the EGR on unless you modifiy it
    • To modify it, you have to weld a piece of aluminum to cover the hole. You may be able to just be able to use a place with the egr gasket, but i'm not sure
Other Information
  • If removing vacuum pump, make sure all devices that use the vacuum pump are converted. This can include the following:
    • EGR System
    • WasteGate
    • HVAC Controls (normally only on vans).
  • I personally like HeathDiesels reflash with the EGR Delete, but KennedyDiesels reflash is just as good (from what I hear)
  • Always take your time and do stuff right the first time. No need to do things twice.
  • Here is information on an EGR Dummy Circuit
I personally prefer METHOD 1 over the other method.

The images below describe the following (in order):
  • Lower Intake Bolt sizes and info
  • Intake Torque Sequence
  • F and S Intake Comparison
  • Before Pics of my truck (yes.. I have/had leaks lol)
  • After Intake replacement (Method 1)


164 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the information guys!!

426 Posts
i need to bookmark this thread....i will be doing this mod to my blazer when i get the money to get the heath chip. havnt decided on which would make me feel more comfortable with the intake mod tho, replace with a made "f" intake or modify my current intake and install the frost plug

1 Posts
Hey guys. I have a 94 and I rebuilt the engine with a spare engine that I got with the truck of the same year. I didnt know at the time that there were two different intakes so I used the one without the EGR system because it had all the ears still on it. The truck is a 6 lug 2500 so I am assuming light duty based on Green Machines post. The truck seems to run well even though the EGR system is not there but I am getting a strange sound (like thudding air) that I am guessing is the exhaust hitting the flat intake manifold rather than running into the EGR system. Is this common or do I have a different problem and am pointing the finger in the wrong place. I still have the vaccum pump hooked up and everything like it was when it came out of the truck and the same chip. I was lucky to find this site because I was actually looking for a place to buy an intake manifold with the EGR holes still in it! Maybe I have to get a reflash or a F chip? It isnt throwing any codes though. Any help would be great, it would be nice to get this truck on the road.
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