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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday the front passenger door window of my wife's 2001 Yukon took a crap.

When you press the button for the power window you can hear the motor cycle but the window does not move. You can manually slide the window up and down using your hands and it will fall down when hitting bumps while driving (currently duct taped up :) ) It acts like it either came off the track or that whatever is inside the door panel that controls the lift has broke.

Can this be a DIY fix? I 've never had to take a door panel apart. I looked at a door handle replacement thread in the DIY that explained how to take the door panel off but it doesn't address the window.

Any help in a diagnosis and repair would be appreciated. I hate to send it to a dealer. I wonder if a glass replacement shop would fix it?

Rob
 

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Commissioner Gordon
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Keep your window taped up in the up position, take the door panel off (it's easier than you think). It sounds like the regulator broke. I usually replace the window motor/regulator assembly (the older ones had there share of problems). I feel like if you are into it this far you might as well fix the whole thing. 10mm socket is all you need, loosen the two screws holding the window to the regulator. Then remove the 6 screws holding the reg/motor assembly. lift track off of the door, angle it sideways and fanagle it out. Put the new one in, tighten 6 bolts, reconnect window switch and push the button to roll up the window untill it makes full contact with the glass and snug up the connections at the window. Test it once or twice and put everything back together.
 

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He is exactly right. Might want to wear some gloves because there can be some sharp edges back there for you to cut your hand up on. It is an easy repair. Used to do them in my sleep at the dealer I worked at. MAke sure you get those 10mm bolts tight that hold it to the door frame. Otherwise it will come loose and rattle after a while. That can be irritating. I believe they had a bulletin on the first design of those to be replaced. You could always have the dealer pull your VIN and see if they will replace it for free. Not likely, but worth a shot.

When you get in there I bet you find that the cable broke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Keep your window taped up in the up position, take the door panel off (it's easier than you think). It sounds like the regulator broke. I usually replace the window motor/regulator assembly (the older ones had there share of problems). I feel like if you are into it this far you might as well fix the whole thing. 10mm socket is all you need, loosen the two screws holding the window to the regulator. Then remove the 6 screws holding the reg/motor assembly. lift track off of the door, angle it sideways and fanagle it out. Put the new one in, tighten 6 bolts, reconnect window switch and push the button to roll up the window untill it makes full contact with the glass and snug up the connections at the window. Test it once or twice and put everything back together.
You make it sound easy! I assume parts are only avail. from the dealer. Any idea how much $ ?

I'm not too clear on what the regulator is. Is it what is referrred to in this DIY thread:

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41756

And THANK-YOU for the info!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You make it sound easy! I assume parts are only avail. from the dealer. Any idea how much $ ?

I'm not too clear on what the regulator is. Is it what is referrred to in this DIY thread:

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41756

And THANK-YOU for the info!!
Answered my own question after some reasearch. Regulator is the scissor llooking thing.

Is it an aftermarket part or dealer only? Gonna get-R-done this weekend!
 

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Commissioner Gordon
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Regulator is the scissor thing in most cases, but on these it is cable and brackets. Unless you can find a wholeseller I think your only bet is the dealer (it's still worth a try at the local auto parts). The last few I've bought have been around $160. My wholeseller doesn't stock it, but if they did it would be $130. Just for referance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Regulator is the scissor thing in most cases, but on these it is cable and brackets. Unless you can find a wholeseller I think your only bet is the dealer (it's still worth a try at the local auto parts). The last few I've bought have been around $160. My wholeseller doesn't stock it, but if they did it would be $130. Just for referance.

It is the cable style

Dealer = $255
Auto Zone = $160
NAPA = $111
Murrays Auto = $76

All had comparable warranties - guess I'll have to go with the cheapest price (which sounds to good to be true).

Thanks again to all for your help! I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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If you have any questions or probs, just let us know and we will help ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all of your help! You were right - it's a simple fix. I saw no difference in the $255 OEM one that I took off and the $76 Murrays Auto one that I installed.

Took about 1 1/2 hours, only because it was the first time. Could do it again in less than an hour taking my time.

You guys saved me some serious $$$ - thanks again!
 

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Commissioner Gordon
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:)
 
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