[Keith_J]

I have been planning this for a while..1986 M1031 (K30 with work box, PTO 12kW generator, 7 CFM air compressor) with 36k miles.

For turbos, I got a pair of CKO Garrett VNTs that while tiny, are supposed to flow 25 lbs mass of air per minute at a pressure ratio of 2. These are for a European only diesel so don't ask how they came here.

Manifolds seem easy on paper, 1-1/2" Schedule 10S pipe is 1.9" OD with 0.109" wall, easy welding with GTAW. Pipe tees are perfect spacing. Going with short radius elbows up from the head ports, then porting from the middle up to the turbo, much like the twin turbo featured in the book "The 6.2L Diesel Engine". Only I will use HMMWV header style flanges.

Intake manifold will be modified for turbo air where the CDR ports are currently, suitably enlarged to match turbo outlets. The top of the intake closed off with a bolted cover, raising the air cleaner about an inch will allow space for ductwork for filtered air to turbo inlets, much like the ATS system.

I'm only looking for Banks Sidewinder performance except fast spooling. I know these turbos will instantly respond as I tested one using the left bank exhaust pipe. Wide open vanes at idle show no back pressure up to 2400 RPM. I can get 2 PSI boost at idle with vanes nearly closed..I ran out of nerve testing.

I have a source for a TPS and MAP input controller which works with the vacuum actuators. I have plenty of experience with these systems so fooling a 2 bar MAP sensor to output a 1 bar control is easy.

First, the engine is getting new head gaskets with ARP studs. Waiting on gaskets as they are back ordered.

 

[OkDually]

Welcome to DieselPlace

 

[ProCycle]

Please keep us up to date with the whole project!

 

[Keith_J]

Please keep us up to date with the whole project!

Certainly will do. First step is head gaskets, studs and deceleration inspection, cleaning and testing.

I injured my left arm last year which is why I have time. Cannot make a fist due to tendon damage and lost feeling in my last two fingers. Lost skin on the back of my hand so it is easily injured. Still have foreign objects under my skin, have cut out 3 pieces so far.

 

[reloader64]

Subscribed.

 

[Keith_J]

Part of the gaskets came in so I made a template to cut the manifold flanges. Probably a plasma torch operation. I have 12 sets of consumables..have to get these cut since my truck powers both torch and compressor.

 

[Keith_J]

Head gaskets came in. But a cold front is blowing in and I have no heat in the shop. Part of my Murphy Abatement Plan. Have all the parts on hand for the head gasket swap so I have no time for fabrication..this way the heads won't be cracked. If the heads are cracked, getting furnace welded and valve seat insert heads will take a few days, time I can spend welding.

I made plasma torch patterns for my manifold flanges and drilling template for turbo flanges. Gotta get those cut before I tear into the truck as that engine powers the plasma torch.

 

[Keith_J]

Finally got my plasma torch templates made to cut the 8 exhaust manifold flanges. Think like HMMWV header flanges but without notches. Cylinders 4,6 3 and 5 have bolt hole diameter of 29/64", the rest are 1/2". This is sufficient for metal design temperature of 240 F for the head and 1200 F for the headers. Headers will be 304L, I have a pound of 1/16" ER309L for GTAW.

I started fabrication on the intake side. Using stock intake filter, raised 2 inches with 2.25" tube connected via a 1x4" duckbill funnel for each turbo..this will keep intake velocity at 150 ft/second, a value below Corky Bell's recommendation of 250 ft/sec. Still have not figured out packaging but want to keep bend count low, ideally one 90 degree bend but I have the boost piping to consider. Intake to the turbo is more critical, especially considering density altitude.

I fabricated a test rig for flow testing as these Barbie sized Wuhan War Whistles have a flow neck of 9.5 square centimeters. I measured no back pressure with open compressor and blocked compressor outlet at maximum turbine A/R up to 1500 RPM. I don't have flow measurement equipment so I was only playing with low engine speed surge margin. This shows these turbos should act like a single GMx at low speed, or better. I didn't experiment with lower A/R (VNT closed down) as the test rig blew out at 5 PSI.

I have little to show in fabrication as the elephant in the corner is VNT control has forced me to revisit a senior mechanical engineering subject..control systems.

The desired boost level is dependent on throttle position. This is the process set point. I have a standard throttle position sensor, 0.5 volts at idle, 4.5 volts wide open. When throttle is opened from idle, the vanes are to be opened an amount proportional to throttle based on the boost level set point.
Then, the difference between the actual boost...

Proportional integral derivative is the way to make this turbo system streetable. But it makes my head hurt, just like it did back in my college days.

 

[ProCycle]

Photos...we need to see photos!

 

[Keith_J]

The reason my progress is slow is my left arm and hand. I got hit on Christmas eve, flipping my car. The window shattered and my arm got dragged along the concrete barrier. Nerve, tendon and bone damage. No feeling in my fingers with limited motion. Skin still not fully healed but no infection. Still have 4 pieces of glass or rock under the mostly healed skin. I've cut out 3 pieces so far but ran out of motivation and pain meds.

So I have good days which are followed by recovery days. Today was one of the latter. I did Tylenol, Naprosyn and 100 mg diphenhydramine to get to sleep, then work up sore and groggy.

 

[Keith_J]

Aluminum pipe is pricey, especially schedule 40 6 inch. That was planned for the riser on the stock air filter. I had some 2 inch wide, 1/8 thick strap so I rolled two rings. This way I didn't need any machine work to cut a groove on the bottom and a lip on the top.

I test fit and still have nearly 2 inches of clearance between the hood and top of the air cleaner.

I used aluminum solder for testing, tomorrow it will get ground out and ER4043 GTAW. Then I will cut 1x4 inch windows in this ring and make the nozzles to adapt to 2.25" ID tube which will feed filtered air to the compressors. Have to work out positions and angles..baby steps just like What About Bob.

 

[OkDually]

The reason my progress is slow is my left arm and hand. I got hit on Christmas eve, flipping my car. The window shattered and my arm got dragged along the concrete barrier. Nerve, tendon and bone damage. No feeling in my fingers with limited motion. Skin still not fully healed but no infection. Still have 4 pieces of glass or rock under the mostly healed skin. I've cut out 3 pieces so far but ran out of motivation and pain meds.

So I have good days which are followed by recovery days. Today was one of the latter. I did Tylenol, Naprosyn and 100 mg diphenhydramine to get to sleep, then work up sore and groggy.

Take it one day at a time. Hope you get better soon

 

[Keith_J]

I shouldn't shop under the influence but just ordered another batch of parts..took my nerve meds an hour ago. Felt motivated with progress. Fear of pain relapse is my greatest hindrance.

I also set up my sheet metal brake to form the intake duck bills (4x1 inch to 2.25" round aluminum) which will conduct filtered air to the compressor inlets. 0.065" aluminum. Yes, I can go this thin on aluminum. Clamped flat to steel backing, it is fast on AC GTAW.

CDR valve and plumbing will change. CDR valve will move from on top of passenger side valve cover to near the oil fill tube. CDR outlets will go to the duck bills or compressor supply tubes..need to think what is best..stock location is a low pressure area of the intake plenums.

 

[Keith_J]

I was able to do proper welding today..4043 filler, GTAW AC at 75% electrode negative 150 Hz. My left hand still shakes with filler rod cut in half. But 100% penetration.
I could have bought a foot long section of 6 inch pipe at $120..then have to machine both ends. Rolled and welded rings at 1/10th the price seems like a bargain.
Included below are some of my tools..Warehouse Deals from Amazon yields German Metabo at Chinese Dewalt price
Also using TIG Button amperage control with my Miller Dynasty. And like Aarron from 6061.com fame, I mix it up with Ryobi ONE cordless hand tools. Slower speed has advantages.
I also tried out my chinesium stubby gas lens set for my GTAW torch. And dual flowmeter-regulator for argon. Measured spot on with a bubbler. I will use argon back purge on joints where the back cannot be accessed by the ball brush to remove Solar Flux B. Since I'm using 1-1/2 Sch 10S pipe (0.109" wall), it is 2 pass weld. Root pass will be with flux on ID, fill-cap will be done with back purge.
Tomorrow I have a home improvement project for my brother as I'm waiting for more materials to be delivered. Hopefully I won't fall through the ceiling

 

[Keith_J]

Fittings came in. Did a layout over my drawing..not shown is the outlet which will be a tee cut longitudinal with a corresponding window cut out of the main section.

Elbows to individual exhaust ports will be ovalized. I need to fabricate a forming plug.

 

[Keith_J]

Slow but steady progress punctuated by road blocks..tried cutting exhaust manifold flanges today, only to find out it needs a better extension cord. The 12/4 which powers my welder just fine on 3 phase just isn't enough for 30 Amps..DUH! Can use SJOW 10/3..warranty is over so I might do it all the way.

My 1/4" thick aluminum plasma templates are spot on and any spatter just doesn't stick. Plus I can weld repair any damage.

 

[Keith_J]

Here is the the first flange, it surface ground nice on the head side. Also showing the assembled template. When fire danger is gone, the 7 remaining will be cut. Then it is on to head gaskets. The truck powers the plasma torch and is my only compressed air source. Compressor motor is 208 3 phase..


Progress is still slow but I have 1/8th of the manifold flanges done. Had to do some weld repair since my plasma cutting is still in development. Drilling the bolt holes is still tedious but I nailed them..made some 0.375" ID, 0.500" OD bushings to match drill using a spare exhaust manifold.

I can't use an exhaust manifold as a welding jig, final assembly will wait until I have the heads pulled for gaskets. Even better as the heads are order of magnitude stiffer. But much heavier.

On thermodynamics, I found flow data straight from GM dyno testing, showing the volumetric efficiency is 88% at 3600 RPM. Torque curves of any engine reflect net cylinder pressure which itself is a combination of volumetric efficiency and fuel quantity. The torque curve is full throttle, injection quantity does not decrease with the DB2829 4520 remains constant until 3600 RPM. Looking at the intake manifold tuning, there is a slight, 5-8% volumetric boost around 3350 RPM, not much as it is 4th order. More important is that 88% volumetric efficiency at maximum speed.

Turbochargers improve air density, they do very little to volumetric efficiency..yes, my flame suit is on. Valve lift, port and polish, duration and curtain area impact volumetric efficiency. So if the engine is running 88% VE at 3600 RPM, it does so at any manifold pressure. So with standard atmospheric conditions of 0.075 pounds mass per cubic foot, a manifold pressure of 10 PSI gauge means a mass flow of 44 pounds per minute with 100 % intercooling. That will never happen, the best compressor is 70% efficient and the mass flow drops to 35 pounds per minute because the intake temperature increases. Without a turbo, the mass flow is 26 pounds per minute.

 

[Keith_J]

Had a good day..flanges cut but lot of work needed. 3 need weld repair, I have plenty of 309L rod.

Got in drill bits, all HSS Co so they should last. I have a Kodiak index but this number and depth screams for their own bits. Also got some citric acid and experimented passivating scrap.

Since I had the plasma out, I also cut the air cleaner top hat cap. This is using stock air cleaner, raised off the manifold with a 2 inch collar. The cap is bolted to the manifold and sealed with a gasket. Filtered air from the collar enters two 1x4 inch flattened funnels, one for each turbo. Compressed air enters the intake manifold through enlarged J code manifold CDR ports. There is an equalizing hole between each plenum, no need to over complicate things. I have a sheet of 5052 O temper 16 gauge for funnels.

Maximum filtered air velocity is 270 ft/second with acceleration in the funnels so this will be the new CDR port location.

 

[Keith_J]

Getting there..outlet to turbos will be between middle tees. Another tee, cut in half with matching window. Lots of welding remains.

 

[Keith_J]

I'm going to need a bigger grinder..or a belt sander with 18 inch platten? And a good supply of belts.

Stainless pulls due to its thermal expansion coefficient. This also makes thermal straighting easier. Using the heads as welding jig will keep things straighter.

Yes, bolting space is tight but there will be 1" long bolting collars for maintaining bolt load. Will also put bolt heads out further, making access easier.

I am nearly certain glow plug and injector access will be possible without removing exhaust manifolds. Glow plug wiring may need insulation, satin buffed and passivated stainless has a low heat radiation index, called emissivity. Typically around 0.12, polished aluminum foil is 0.03, asphalt road around 0.90. So some kind of aluminized Mylar coated split loom would work.