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I am running 35 bfgs on my M1008 with a 4 inch but they are 12.50s
I'm looking to stay under 500$
35's with a 3.08 ratio? What's your 0-60 time, about a day and a half? :HiHi: :hehe:
 
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Discussion Starter #42
35's with a 3.08 ratio? What's your 0-60 time, about a day and a half? :HiHi: :hehe:
The M1008 has 4.56 gears a 5 spd and a turbo.
No I would not run 35's on the M1009 with the 3.08s. I would not run tires that big on the junk 6 lug axles. Biggest I'll run is 33's. It has 31's.
Eventually I'd like o swap in 3.73 8 lugs with 35's.
 
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Discussion Starter #43
So worked on it some more. Put a block heater in. Always a messy job. Think this is my 3rd or 4th install and I have yet to be able to pull the freeze plug out successfully. Always end up driving it in then reaching in, getting it sideways in the hole and then pulling it out. Don't worry if it falls in the block, it can't go far and you can easily reach it with your fingers to get it out.
The worthless hack who owned this truck and put the new radiator in, I guess never heard of teflon tape. The petcock was leaking around the threads. No biggie since I usually remove the valve anyway to drain the system. Where GM put the stupid thing is near impossible to reach.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Also took the front end apart to replace the worn out drag link and tie rod ends and found the moron put the pads back in with a broken anti rattle clip and consequently dropped the pad down upon install so one side of it sat below the caliper bolt. Honestly some people should not have tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Oh, I guess the loser felt cotter pins on steering components are optional too...
 

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Discussion Starter #46
btw, Rockauto had the best deal. Got both tie rod ends and the entire draglink for 44$ shipped.
 
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btw, Rockauto had the best deal. Got both tie rod ends and the entire draglink for 44$ shipped.
That's where I got my front end stuff. I would advise you to check the long tie rod tube that runs left to right as mine was factory it looked fine and out of the blue one day the drivers side tie rod (the one that has the stabilizer shock hole) pulled the threads right out of it while I was driveing.

Stock suspension on 31s and it pulled right out of the tube.

I bought as a replacement the off road design tie rods and they're tube wich is 1 3/4 Dom tube.

I wish I had pics
 

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Nice find on those pads, looks like they were just about ready to fall apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
That's where I got my front end stuff. I would advise you to check the long tie rod tube that runs left to right as mine was factory it looked fine and out of the blue one day the drivers side tie rod (the one that has the stabilizer shock hole) pulled the threads right out of it while I was driveing.

Stock suspension on 31s and it pulled right out of the tube.

I bought as a replacement the off road design tie rods and they're tube wich is 1 3/4 Dom tube.

I wish I had pics
The tie rod end was TRW. Seemed ok but I will keep an eye on it. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Anyone know where I can get the proper bolts for the cap ? GM discontinued them and LMC does not list them. I can't find them anywhere and mine are all missing. The hack has Pickup truck cap clamps holding the top on...ughhh....
The parts truck I bought is missing them as well...
 

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Will any K5 stuff work?
This has a cap maybe he would part with the bolts if he has them

k5 blazer parts
 

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If I remember correctly they're just standard bolts but with fender washers on them... But thats all I remember...
 
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They are chrome plated bolts with a pointed tip for locating. I broke 1 off and had to cut one because the nutt just kept spinning.

so yea you could use fender bolts and paint them silver
 

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Do you still have the aluminum pieces ? I think they're kinda like a backing plate the defiantly keep the bolts from chewing into the fiberglass top
 

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Do you still have the aluminum pieces ? I think they're kinda like a backing plate the defiantly keep the bolts from chewing into the fiberglass top
No. I don't think the mil trucks even had them.
 

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I would use large washers or make some out of flat stock the fiberglass they used wasn't very strong more like bondo with a little glass in it.
 

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OH! Those bolts! Try fender bolts, I've had some that look like that on fenders!
 

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Discussion Starter #58
They are 5/15-18 x 1-1/4 but zinc plated and tapered to a point. I can't find the exact bolts. Trying a few surplus guys.
 

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They are 5/15-18 x 1-1/4 but zinc plated and tapered to a point. I can't find the exact bolts. Trying a few surplus guys.
got a blazer here we are parting out, can check for these tomorrow, must be there, the shell didnt fly off when we were pulling it on the highway.....:HiHi:
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Let me know. I am coming up with zero. You guys are awesome.
 
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