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you guys both did a great job. i like sportys for the simplicity of it under the truck. but i also like how racedaymechanics is under the hood. either way if yall would make that for others, id probably buy from either of you. but i may do my own thing too haha
 

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You were both an inspiration for me! I'm just about finished installing a new fuel system in my 6.2. I'm still waiting on a few parts, but it is turning out well. I used a Kennedy lift pump control harness. It was super easy to install and very high quality. As mentioned earlier, I used a Walbro LP, Racor 645P primary filter, and a new 6.5 FFM secondary filter (same model you guys are throwing away!!!). I'm thinking of dropping the tank to replace the sock. Do you recommend the metron rod sending unit? Was it a difficult installation?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Do you recommend the metron rod sending unit? Was it a difficult installation?

I would recommend it IF your fuel sending unit is malfunctioning. Mine was not necessarily acting up, I just didn't like how when I fill up it goes way past full, then I can go 350 miles on the first half of the tank, then the second the gauge drops below a half a tank it goes to empty in 100 miles. I am down to about a quarter tank remaining on my first tank of fuel with the metrum rod and the gauge now drops more linear. Your call.

If you have the sending unit out to replace or remove the sock then installation is pretty easy. I had to cut off the vent line so it was less than 3/4" long and also bend the fuel return nipple so it didn't interfear with the float. I believe you can download the directions from the seller's site.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
either way if yall would make that for others, id probably buy from either of you.

Not me, my two diesels and my two year old keep me busy enough.:)
 

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you guys both did a great job. i like sportys for the simplicity of it under the truck. but i also like how racedaymechanics is under the hood. either way if yall would make that for others, id probably buy from either of you. but i may do my own thing too haha
Im kinda semi retired now so I am going to be getting into alot more things for my Biz
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Final Pictures

Ok, I got around to fixing a leak I was having on the inlet to the primary FF base. I used Loctite thread sealant stick this time, where I had previously used Permatex high temp thread sealant. I like the Loctite stuff better. I also replaced the primary filter with the shorter 33123, so it doesn't hang down below the frame. This one is almost two inches shorter than the WIX 33418 I used first. Enjoy.

The view from outside the truck, you can just make out about 1/2" of the steel plate hanging down so I could get a good weld on it from this side:



Pics of the finished product with the new, shorter Wix 33123 primary:





And finally, I turned this fitting a little tighter and that resulted in the FP sender angled a diffrent direction, which is actually beneficial as it is completely out of harm's way now and tucked up under the frame rail:



Since fixing this leak now my FP gauge sits still now. It used to bounce around alot due to the nature of the Walbro pump. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet as my little girl is taking a nap, but I plan on "running some errands" with her when she wakes up.:) I'll get a better idea then.
 

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Why would spend time trying to jury rig an NON OEM GM filter in. Geez the stock filter has a 30,000 mile change intervel. I chose to change the OEM filter to a quick R&R mounting.I bought an extra fuel filter mgr.Mgr & change the element byGM mileage as recommended.
 

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Why would spend time trying to jury rig an NON OEM GM filter in. Geez the stock filter has a 30,000 mile change intervel. I chose to change the OEM filter to a quick R&R mounting.I bought an extra fuel filter mgr.Mgr & change the element byGM mileage as recommended.
Because the stock fuel manager Is a POS, even when you bore out the Fittings its still in a lousy place The rubber fuels lines are junk after 15+years and 200k on the clock its time to 1. wait till fuel starts spraying all over then fix things piece meal 2. R&R The stock fuel manager and replace the hoses under the intake and still have a POS set up or 3. Be proactive come up with a superior
set up replace the rubber lines with Braided Stainless Steal lines, put the Fuel filter in a far better place for maintainance, Performance, Temp Ect. the choice is yours I pick #3 as far as Jury rig??? have you looked at my setup? its in this thread
 

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Gee, I always thought the stock fuel filter \ fuel manager were kinda jury rigged. It's a poor design, but at least they put it in the worst possible location.
 

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Gonna resurrect this outstanding post if that's ok. I've been having a ***** of a time curing a leak on the FFM and am tired of fighting it (the leak killed my starter of all things from fuel leaking down the valley).

One question and it's probably a dumb one but is there an advantage/disadvantage to filter placement? Specifically, if I go with Sporty's mod, the IP has to suck quite a long ways past the final filter before the IP where Raceday's is a much shorter run. Also, I was always under the impression you shouldn't be pushing fuel thru a filter but rather sucking it thru. Does the added PSI of the Walbro cause any issues in regards to pushing fuel>

I have a brand new Walbro 5 that I bought a couple of years ago for my Mercedes diesel that I intend to use for this application. I love both your mods guys but wondering, especiallly since it's been several months since this thread was born, how has it held up long-term.

I'm in Detroit so have cold weather and salt issues to deal with. I'm thinking I can get away with one of those filter wraps to keep it warm in the winter.
 

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The point of the LP is that the IP doesnt have to suck anything from anywhere. There should always be positive pressure into the IP. So it this respect filter placement makes no difference. And filters likely have a pressure spec that they are rated to, designed to be pushed through, otherwise contaminants that come off the LP could go straight into the IP and clog it.
 

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Ok, I understand. So the added PSI of the Walbro (or any other LP replacement) is providing the positive pressure as you say to keep everything in the filter(s) and the length of the run from final filter to IP is meaningless in that the IP isn't working any harder whether that final filter was under the hood (raceday's) or midship (Sporty's) or heck even in the back of the truck.

On Raceday's he just has the one filter pre IP and is relying on the screen in the Walbro as the only protection (if any is necessary of course) pre filter. Sporty's pre-filter then is just added protection which is attractive to me since I'm running B100 in the summer.

Thanks for letting me think out loud. I'm pulling a 30'TT this year and want to get this thing so we can head west and take grades without having to get out and push.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Thanks for letting me think out loud. I'm pulling a 30'TT this year and want to get this thing so we can head west and take grades without having to get out and push.

I have another thread on that topic too after I picked up my 32' TT :)

To answer your question about how it's working now....it is still working great. Since my last update of this thread I have not touched anything. I am able to monitor fuel pressure post FFM, pre IP and the Walbro still holds 9ish at idle and never below 3 while pulling my TT (~16K combined gross usually). I have seen others with Walbro FRB5 that say they never drop below 8-10, but I think many of them are measuring before the FFM.

I believe Bruce (racedaymechanic) is running a FRC10 and sees higher pressure than I do, and I know he is measuring pre IP.

I would recommend this to anyone who is tired of the leak prone, restrictive GM fuel system.
 

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Thanks for the intel Adam. Bought a 30' Keystone and the Suburban has been transitioned from wife's daily kid hauler into my rig (her patience wore out with the 6.5!) and I'm beefing it up so it's main purpose in life will be to haul the TT. Did the 4" diamond eye, DMAX fan blade upgrade, larger trans pan w/ fluted vents on bottom, *** purchased and waiting on the KOJO ECM to install that. 3 gauge A pillar cluster for EGT, Trans & Boost. This fuel leak has me over a barrel. I'm beginning to think one of the injector rail nuts going into the IP is leaking. Looks like the intake is coming off after the weekend. Good thing I have a backup tow vehicle for this weekend's maiden voyage. The kids would be devastated!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Enjoy the new Keystone and your camping trip.

BTW, I have always wanted a w116 300SD. I have had my '85 300SD for 12 years and love it, but the W116 is such a nicer body style to me, just got to get past that evil servo :)
 

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The LP needs to be able to keep the positive pressure after the filter too, so thats why its wise to measuer between the last fiter and the IP. Ideally, you would always like to have 6psi even under load, but the FRB5 is not typically powerful enough for that.
 

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94...so your opinion is the Walbro 5 is not as capable as the 10 on maintaining the 6psi? Adam has the 5 and apparently is pleased. If I were buying new I would probably get the 10 but I already own the 5 so my thought is use it, see how it goes and then upgrade if it is warranted. I guess I'll need to figure out a way to get another gauge somewhere for fuel pressure.

Adam, in my sig pic, it was taken when I hauled the SD back from Florida a year ago December. Rust free but blown head gasket. I've rebuilt the top half and put a '85 cam on it. In the process of stripping it back down for paint. For $600, you can totally eliminate the servo with 21 century electronics. Or I have a 280SE Euro with the manual climate control if I feel like going completely old school.
 

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The FRB5 can do alright, I think some of them get better springs than others. When mine was reading low I asked Walbro about it and they send my a new stiffer spring to put in it. So if its not holding good pressure it could be from a clogged screen (sock) in the fuel tank or the spring isnt strong enough inside of it. Before I put the new spring in Leroy started offering the FRC-10, so I just upgraded to a higher pressure spec'd pump. Now the FRB5 is backup, same housing and all.
 
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