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Discussion Starter #121
Hello every one it's been a while, I hope everyone is doing well. I'm back for some info, I'm thinking of converting the drum brakes over to disks. Any one have a good kit they can recommend.

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I click it and it sends me to the home screen


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Try switching your screen settings over to "Desktop View".

The tapatalk app is known to cause readability issues with links

:thumb:
 
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Discussion Starter #125
Try switching your screen settings over to "Desktop View".



The tapatalk app is known to cause readability issues with links



:thumb:
Thanks I looked over the thread, but it looks really old. When I clicked on the link for the dual wheel, all 3 web pages are down.

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Discussion Starter #127
I've had the ole girl parked going on two years. I stopped driving her after I got this knock. I thought is the oil pump. Took in to a shop , had the mechanic look at the truck. Said it was not oil pump. The dash Guage was dropping to 0 and the "check gauge" pop on when I would come to a stop. He put a mechanical guage and confirmed there was pressure. He said it was on the lower end but still with in spec. He replaced my harmonic pulley. He said that where the knock was coming from. I drove her home about a 30 min drive and she still sounded loud. I spent about 600 and the problem was still there. So I just parked her and put her on hold. My second child was born so I had no free time.

I stared to read up on the knock. And there was too many variables. I tool it to another mechanic and he said the turbo was bad or it could be a internal engine issue. So now I have two completely different opinions. It stumped me.

I did find a 3 guy that haven't had time to personally look at it yet. Bit I told him the symptoms,
1 loud knock
2 would rev up on her own , all the way. Had to pop it in neutral amd turn engine off. It has done this 3
3 stalls
4 black smoke comes out when it revs up on it own.
5 lift pump fuse keeps popping
6 battery slowly drains if not ran every day or other.

The guy said the first thing I should try is the change the pmd.
Said the knock could be a "fuel knock"
I ordered a new one and will be swapping it out soon.
Do any of you guys have any ideas on what wrong with my girl?
 

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1995 Chevrolet Silverado Z71 6.5 TD
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I've had the ole girl parked going on two years. I stopped driving her after I got this knock. I thought is the oil pump. Took in to a shop , had the mechanic look at the truck. Said it was not oil pump. The dash Guage was dropping to 0 and the "check gauge" pop on when I would come to a stop. He put a mechanical guage and confirmed there was pressure. He said it was on the lower end but still with in spec. He replaced my harmonic pulley. He said that where the knock was coming from. I drove her home about a 30 min drive and she still sounded loud. I spent about 600 and the problem was still there. So I just parked her and put her on hold. My second child was born so I had no free time.

I stared to read up on the knock. And there was too many variables. I tool it to another mechanic and he said the turbo was bad or it could be a internal engine issue. So now I have two completely different opinions. It stumped me.

I did find a 3 guy that haven't had time to personally look at it yet. Bit I told him the symptoms,
1 loud knock
2 would rev up on her own , all the way. Had to pop it in neutral amd turn engine off. It has done this 3
3 stalls
4 black smoke comes out when it revs up on it own.
5 lift pump fuse keeps popping
6 battery slowly drains if not ran every day or other.

The guy said the first thing I should try is the change the pmd.
Said the knock could be a "fuel knock"
I ordered a new one and will be swapping it out soon.
Do any of you guys have any ideas on what wrong with my girl?
put a video up of the knock
 

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I've had the ole girl parked going on two years. I stopped driving her after I got this knock. I thought is the oil pump. Took in to a shop , had the mechanic look at the truck. Said it was not oil pump. The dash Guage was dropping to 0 and the "check gauge" pop on when I would come to a stop. He put a mechanical guage and confirmed there was pressure. He said it was on the lower end but still with in spec. He replaced my harmonic pulley. He said that where the knock was coming from. I drove her home about a 30 min drive and she still sounded loud. I spent about 600 and the problem was still there. So I just parked her and put her on hold. My second child was born so I had no free time.

I stared to read up on the knock. And there was too many variables. I tool it to another mechanic and he said the turbo was bad or it could be a internal engine issue. So now I have two completely different opinions. It stumped me.

I did find a 3 guy that haven't had time to personally look at it yet. Bit I told him the symptoms,
1 loud knock
2 would rev up on her own , all the way. Had to pop it in neutral amd turn engine off. It has done this 3
3 stalls
4 black smoke comes out when it revs up on it own.
5 lift pump fuse keeps popping
6 battery slowly drains if not ran every day or other.

The guy said the first thing I should try is the change the pmd.
Said the knock could be a "fuel knock"
I ordered a new one and will be swapping it out soon.
Do any of you guys have any ideas on what wrong with my girl?




If you replace the harmonic pulley you should also be replacing the harmonic balancer. Both contain rubber and if the pulley was bad that means the balancer isn't far behind, needing replacment. Always replace both as a matched set..
When those are neglected they can create negative harmonics that will travel through the crankshaft, eventually, breaking the crankshaft and/or crack the engine block.

A loud knock can be a fuel knock or something within the engine.
Remove the Serp belt and briefly run the engine. if the knock remains then it's something internal like Injectors, valve train, harmonic balancer, etc.
If the knock is gone, then concentrate on things like vacuum pump, pulleys, etc..

Uncontrolled revs can be a couple of things:
1. bad PMD. If you replace the PMD always make sure the new PMD has a resistor installed. The resistor is important for proper PMD function.
2. worn armature within the Injection pump= replace the Injection pump.

Stalling can be a lack of fuel ( issue with the fuel delivery system, ie.. lift pump, air in fuel, fuel contamination, PMD, etc)
When you mention lift pump fuse keep popping do you mean the fuse is blown or do you mean literally popping out of the holder?
If the fuse blows then it shows you have a short to ground issue within the lift pump circuit and you need to hunt for the rubbed through wire causing the issue.

Battery drain can be due to old/defective batteries or you have a parasitic draw in your electrical system.
Start by removing your batteries and take them to your local auto parts store and ask the staff to perform a load test on each battery.
If one or both fail replace them both as a matched set..

The oil pressure gauge issue should be a faulty OPS ( Oil Pressure Switch). Replace the OPS ( AC/Delco brand only).
As a reminder, ANY part you replace that is electrical in nature ( ie sendor, sensors, etc) need to be AC/Delco brand.
Aftermarket parts will bring electrical gremlins into any issues you may be having and will create other issues on top of what you are trying to diagnose and fix..
 
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Hope the link work. I did replace the Vacuum pump.
Recheck your vacuum pump. There have been some vacuum pumps out of the box that didn't have any oil installed from factory..
 
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Discussion Starter #132
Today I was able to swap my PMD out and I made the mistake of not starting it first with the old one one. It did still start just two weeks ago. So I swapped it out with this Pmd. It says it has the # 5 resistor, do I need the #9. The truck will turn over , you can hear the lift pump engaging. But it won't stay on. I checked all fuses everything is ok. I did have the truck disconnect from the batteries for like two week. On the account of some one trying to steal my truck. Could I reset the computer or the security system. She started just fine two weeks ago no problems drove her around the block , parked and then took the batteries out. Any ideas guys?!
638882
638883
638884
 

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Discussion Starter #133
So the top one is the Stanadyne #5
The bottom two are Dorman 904-107
#5 #9
They look quite different. I will get the number #9 Stanadyne. With the truck starting up and just dying right away. I wonder if because there had been alot of moisture in the air if that could be a issue.
638885
 

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Discussion Starter #134
If you replace the harmonic pulley you should also be replacing the harmonic balancer. Both contain rubber and if the pulley was bad that means the balancer isn't far behind, needing replacment. Always replace both as a matched set..
When those are neglected they can create negative harmonics that will travel through the crankshaft, eventually, breaking the crankshaft and/or crack the engine block.

A loud knock can be a fuel knock or something within the engine.
Remove the Serp belt and briefly run the engine. if the knock remains then it's something internal like Injectors, valve train, harmonic balancer, etc.
If the knock is gone, then concentrate on things like vacuum pump, pulleys, etc..

Uncontrolled revs can be a couple of things:
1. bad PMD. If you replace the PMD always make sure the new PMD has a resistor installed. The resistor is important for proper PMD function.
2. worn armature within the Injection pump= replace the Injection pump.

Stalling can be a lack of fuel ( issue with the fuel delivery system, ie.. lift pump, air in fuel, fuel contamination, PMD, etc)
When you mention lift pump fuse keep popping do you mean the fuse is blown or do you mean literally popping out of the holder?
If the fuse blows then it shows you have a short to ground issue within the lift pump circuit and you need to hunt for the rubbed through wire causing the issue.

Battery drain can be due to old/defective batteries or you have a parasitic draw in your electrical system.
Start by removing your batteries and take them to your local auto parts store and ask the staff to perform a load test on each battery.
If one or both fail replace them both as a matched set..

The oil pressure gauge issue should be a faulty OPS ( Oil Pressure Switch). Replace the OPS ( AC/Delco brand only).
As a reminder, ANY part you replace that is electrical in nature ( ie sendor, sensors, etc) need to be AC/Delco brand.
Aftermarket parts will bring electrical gremlins into any issues you may be having and will create other issues on top of what you are trying to diagnose and fix..
Thanks man!
 

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Discussion Starter #135
One last thing that I think could be a issue is that I put some fuel like 5 gallons and some winter additive . So I think that maybe the fuel is separated or just low. I will add some tomorrow.
 

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One last thing that I think could be a issue is that I put some fuel like 5 gallons and some winter additive . So I think that maybe the fuel is separated or just low. I will add some tomorrow.
Adding too much additive in your fuel can sometimes cause Optical Sensor issues by clouding the fuel..

As far as resistors go, 9 is the popular choice. #5 will work..
Also, make sure you have a heat transfer pad or heat paste between the heatsink and PMD
If you have a security light on the dash that stays on then you need to do the security relearn procedure.. Otherwise the truck will start and die
 

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Discussion Starter #137
Adding too much additive in your fuel can sometimes cause Optical Sensor issues by clouding the fuel..

As far as resistors go, 9 is the popular choice. #5 will work..
Also, make sure you have a heat transfer pad or heat paste between the heatsink and PMD
If you have a security light on the dash that stays on then you need to do the security relearn procedure.. Otherwise the truck will start and die
I did notice the security light did stay on. What is the relearn procedure?
 

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Discussion Starter #139
She is is alive! Started right up after I added more fuel! She feels better. Still got that annoying oil pressure gauge jumping all over. I will replace with a ac Delco. Does any one have the right part number.
 

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1995 Chevrolet Silverado Z71 6.5 TD
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She is is alive! Started right up after I added more fuel! She feels better. Still got that annoying oil pressure gauge jumping all over. I will replace with a ac Delco. Does any one have the right part number.
This is what I have for that sender unit.
AC #19244501
 
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