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Has anyone moved their front bumper forward instead of trimming their fenders? I have a buddy who is putting together a 2500HD w/ 37's for the SEMA show and he wants to move the bumper instead of cut. I think I read about someone doing this before, but I can't find the thread.


Any help that can be provided is appreciated.

Thanks,


Ari
 

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I've done it, very easy.....the brackets on the outside get flipped the bolted on for the spacing. Middle bolts don't get used. All other bolts are put back in....I believe there is another drilled hole on the chassis (may have to drill 7/16 hole) no biggie. That bumper WHOLE asm. weighs like 32 lbs if that....surprised! Took about a halk hour after just looking over the new mounting spots/flipped parts. Relocates bumper about a 1 1/2 - 1-1/4 ? looks good, can't tell.


Edited by: KTDURAMAX
 

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hey guys i was wondering if you had some pics of this process ,i need pictures to better understand this and thanks in advance and have a happy new year
 

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Hey Guys,


I just got a new 2004 DD 2500 HD 4x4 LT. I am also looking to get some 33's or 35's on some H2 rims. I would like to get the Bumper mode done as well. Are you guys lifting the bumper and moving it forward as well? sounds like some are lifting the bumper a bit and some are actually moving the bumper forward.


A nice step by step with a couple pics would be a great addition to this forum.


I have asked some guys about there modes in this forum and every one has been very helpful. This is a great forum! Thanks for all the help guys!


Jerz
 

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Seems like someone should make a kit for the Bumper mod. I would buy one! Most people just do more grinding to get the tire to fit because it's the easy way.


Jerz
 

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I've done the bumper mod on my 03, its involving if you use all the bolts, and for structural integrity I suggest you do. You shim the outer support brackets, and I fabricated a bracket extention out of 1/4" steel stock to keep my brackets and bolts solidly mounted. IMHO to not use some of the bolts changes the transfer of energy in a frontal collision and could result in the bumper and crush zones not doing thier job. I'm sure GM smashed plenty of silverado's in crash tests to determine the proper stress and transfer points for the frame brackets, I wouldn't feel comfortable turning the bumper into a cosmetic appendage. Just my .02, but then again, I could just be FOS. (again)



Mike


P.S. I did document and photograph my job, have to get around to putting it all into a comprehensive and readable post.
 

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I did it on my 02. I flipped the end supports like mentioned above by KTDURAMAX. I added 2 washers on each end to get the spacing just right. I also made two new braces - just two straight pieces of flat steel about 1"X3" with two 7/16" holes drilled 1" apart. I used these on the middle/side mounts to extend the existing hole out 1". For the two middle mounts I drilled two new 7/16" (I think that's what I drilled all the holes, but I'd have to check to make sure) into the frame and then used SS bolts and washers to replace the two existing holes there.


Took me two days, which includes making the brackets and painting them... the bumpers not heavy, but would be easy to drop as you unmount and mount- be careful!


I'm very happy I took the time to move them forward, before moving it forward there was only ~1/8" between the bumper and the new H2 wheel on the driver side.
 

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EnerMax sounds like we went through the same thing. 2 days here too. (unfortunately I did drop my bumper, twice). Made brackets, painted them, same thing. Did you cuss as much as I did? How many beer job (Molsen Goldens here)? Also very glad I did it. Got a buddy who wants me to do his now
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MikeEdited by: VFRRider
 

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all you need is a saws all. your tires will probably rub on the back side of the front tire more than on the bumper side. I have 285x75 on 16x8 with the tortion bars cranked up. I cut the molding on the front side of the tire that fixed the rubbing problem. I left the back side alone and that is where the problam is. Moving the bumper will not fix that problem though. Be careful pulling in and out of driveways and parking spots because the tires will pull the rivots off the inside of the fender well.
 

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Mike and/or EnerMax,


Did either of you have to shave any off the plastic air dam at the bottom after moving the bumper forward?


I've got 315's on my truck and I've shaved the air dam back as much as I figured would do any good, but I still rub the driver side tire anytime I make a right turn while the weight of the truck is on that side. Also, did you guys have to trim that inner front fender well at all? My tires hit that as well, though I think I have bigger tires than either of you...


Mike, would you mind PM'ing your pics and notes to me? I'm sure I can figure it out, but it's always good to have a reference.
 

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sp33d,


I cut them first while I was still dreaming that I wouldn't have to move the bumper! After I trimmed the dam, the front and back side of the front wheel wells I knew that wasn't enough. Cutting the dam was easy, I don't think I needed to - but that's part of the learning process!


I have a thread on what I did, look under "H2 Nip and Tuck" - I have the standard 2003 H2's with 315's and I did a LOT of cutting in the wheel wells
 

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I did not have to cut the Airdam at all, as EnerMax said, that was the reason I chose to move it, wanted to avoid it. I also have the 315's. I did also have to trim the plastic well liner, quite a bit on the drivers side, but even then it's not noticable unless you know what your looking for. I will post all my info on the job..eventually. Need to have a free hour or so, don't seem to have any of those lately
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Mike
 

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Since I 4x4 in the mountains in the winter and am putting 35" tires on I decided to move out the bumper. I need extra room for chains of the 35" tires.


I moved it 3". I fabricated 4 plates of 3/8" x 4.5" weldable steel with holes at each end of each piece 3" apart. I also cut a steel 1" pipe so I had two pieces that were 3" long. I attached the plates to the original frame holes using the OEM fasteners. I attached the bumper to the end of the new plates using grade 8 nuts and bolts with washers. The 3" pipes were used to space each end of the bumper with a 4.5" bolt through the original bracket and into the bolt on the attached OEM bumper bracket. The wind "foil" at the bottom of the cross bracket in front of the radiator was extended using a piece of plastic cut from a garbage can. I am presently working on fabricating a piece of material (plastic) to block the new gap between the grill and the top of the black bumper.


This not only allows me to use chains but I can also use the bumper cover in the winter when it get "chilly" at 11,000 feet in November!
 

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VFRider - missed some of your comments earlier......I was in the middle of two other 'jobs' when I took on the bumper mod -I think my neighbours heard more descriptive words than they deserved to hear over those two days. It was cold and unpleasant, as I recall I enjoyed a few Tim Hortons coffees but no cold-ones.. Can't say the first time was enjoyable, but I think doing it the second time for a friend wouldn't be so bad...
 

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