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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm currently in the process of installing a used 6.5L motor into one of my work trucks. It's a 1997 C2500 reg cab work truck with the F model motor. One of my crew, running it super hard this summer, broke the timming chain causing valve damage and head damage....not to mention the hole in the oil pan where the chain went through it. :rolleyes:

I have aquired a motor out of a '97 Suburban with the same F VIN code. It has about 120000 miles on it and that's about all I know...other than it was running when it was taken out of the Suburban.

Since I have the motor out of the truck, I'm taking this oppertuintiy to replace as much as I think so that I wont have to do it later. I've put the turbo from my old motor on this one (it was a new turbo), installed the PDM cooler from the old one, replaced the oil pan seal and both exhaust seals as well as cleaning out each manifold. I also replaced the glow plugs the thr rubber part of the fuel lines in the rear of the motor, installed a new fuel filter and oil filter.

What else should I do while I have the motor out of the truck where it's easer to work on?
 

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Good so far - hope you pulled the pan and inspected the mains webbing.

Might also do that on the original block, see how much survived

Also replace the timing chainset,front crank seal, new HO waterpump, closely inspect the harmonic balancer and accessory drive pulley - replace if the rubber is deteriorated in any way.

Pull the valve covers and replace the nylon rocker arm keeper-buttons - valve covers are sealed with RTV, so no gasket necessary.

Injectors and IP, of course - should be good for another 120kmi
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice. It's a lot easier to work on the 6.5 with it on the stand.

I'll gather some parts and go from there.
 

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ryanesar;1538934; said:
I'm currently in the process of installing a used 6.5L motor into one of my work trucks. It's a 1997 C2500 reg cab work truck with the F model motor. One of my crew, running it super hard this summer, broke the timming chain causing valve damage and head damage....not to mention the hole in the oil pan where the chain went through it. :rolleyes:

I have aquired a motor out of a '97 Suburban with the same F VIN code. It has about 120000 miles on it and that's about all I know...other than it was running when it was taken out of the Suburban.

Since I have the motor out of the truck, I'm taking this oppertuintiy to replace as much as I think so that I wont have to do it later. I've put the turbo from my old motor on this one (it was a new turbo), installed the PDM cooler from the old one, replaced the oil pan seal and both exhaust seals as well as cleaning out each manifold. I also replaced the glow plugs the thr rubber part of the fuel lines in the rear of the motor, installed a new fuel filter and oil filter.

What else should I do while I have the motor out of the truck where it's easer to work on?
Paint it the right color! Black engines suck!:D
 

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inspect the harmonic balancer
 

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SOLID COLORS PLEASE, prefererably one that isn't a blinding neon one, like someone else has around here :D
 

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blinding neon is a solid color, just not here lol.
 

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You might drill and tap the exhuast manifold for a pre-turbo pyro sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'd like to add guages to the truck. Where is the normal place to tap for the EGT guage and boost guage?
 

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ryanesar;1544984; said:
I'd like to add guages to the truck. Where is the normal place to tap for the EGT guage and boost guage?
Boost fitting gets tapped into upper intake plenum, since your engine is out, go to FAQ thread read the post there for a pre turbo mount for EGT in the exhaust manifold chamber just below where the turbo sits
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Turbine Doc. What are the best guages for this truck? I've always run Auto Meter Guages in my Rock crawlers. My other truck has the Edge A2 which handles guages.
 

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Pretty much any gauge used on a gasser will work on Diesel, get a guage as close to expected operating range as possibly, it's scaling will be more representative to what is actually happining, IE I run a 0-15 boost gauge, vs a 0-30 some run, I don't run above 15 psi boost so why monitor it up there and lose accuracy in 0-12 range I run at.
 

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CanadianDiesel;1543810; said:
blinding neon is a solid color, just not here lol.

My comment was directed to certain members of our happy little bunch that have a full neon crayola box engine color scheme, :D and try to use them all at same time
 

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If you wanna go the short route I would put in a new timing chain and then pull the heads and put in studs and the fel pro headgaskets. If you wanna go the long route I would do what I just mentioned and put in a set of rings and bearings.Remember, you have the engine out......wouldnt take long to do these things.
 

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So to summarize:

oil pan and exhaust gaskets
glow plugs
fuel lines
fuel and oil filters
timing chain
front crank seal
water pump
check harmonic balancer and accessory drive pulley
nylon rocker arm keeper buttons
injectors
injector pump
bearings, rings
headgaskets, head studs


Sounds like a full rebuild.

I am in a similar position, 144k, doing a frame swap, and trying to determine how much to do, dont want to spend too much either.

Certainly going to give everything a good look over.
Anybody care to give cost on listed items. I haven't looked into it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks guys. This is my first real experience at doing major things to the 6.5L. I've done major work on CATs, Kubotas, John Deers, Macks, Fords but not too much other than oil changes, and oil cooler lines on the 6.5L. I hadn't thought too much about all of those things. Trying to keeps costs as low as possiable but I also don't want to have to do this again. Hopefully this motor will last until the rest of the truck falls apart and it's not worth fixing. I think I will look at the timing chain because that was the cause of the first motors demise.
 

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Do every thing suggested. It will never be as easy or cost any less. Head gaskets are the single most important item ,IMO. They seem to have propensity to leak without provocation.
 

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Timing gears and a stud girdle would be prudent if the truck will continue to be driven as hard as it obviously has been in the past. That way you won't have another timing chain disaster.
 

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always lower compression they are way to high from factory best mod youl ever make more power less viberation they sell 10 over headgaskets thats all you need on stock aplications drops about 1point helps a lot
 
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