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This is definitely getting bookmarked for spring!

i was just gonna grab a non AC box and swap in its place, but the wife asked what it would cost to put AC back in the truck...so now this is part of my plan LOL
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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Your the first person to post how its done after 10ish years of people asking how its done.
THATS COOL!! :thumb:

The more visual info, the better

And we still haven't listed what S10 AC parts to keep for the install. One of us will show it complete very soon
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Got it started last night but there are a couple problems. when it started the idle was so high it sounded like it was about to launch into orbit! I kid you not, when its all quiet at night and a truck with no exhaust and run away idle starts up it is a SCARY sound!!

Only let it run for ~20 seconds to see if the throttle was stuck... its not. and at the same time the radiator decides to pop a leak! sprayed water all over my pretty new engine!

as far as the insanely high idle, i'm pretty sure we messed up when turning up the fuel on the IP. the inside parts of the ip were difficult to take out... and well, a long story short, we messed with the spring inside. thought we got the nut set back to the original spot, but i guess not! later this afternoon we are going to take another crack at it and see if we cant get that back to normal. then i have to take the rad out and to a shop for some welding.

here are some pics before it was started. i used part of the air intake from a 6.5 with some pvc to attach the k&n air filter. i used that so i could just hook up the cdr right there without any trouble.



 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Like that air filter setup

Bummer the IP is messed up though, musta scared the wits out of ya when it started
 

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Discussion Starter #45
the high idle was an easy fix. took the cover off the ip and a few twists of a wrench and viola! truck sounds mean!

a few vids for your viewing pleasure:



had an oil leak at the turbo, but think i got that squared away. but cant get the damn truck moving! nearly 3 gallons of tranny fluid and nothing... seems like the torque converter is bone dry. added fluid to the TC before installing it, but... any ideas on why its not getting into the tc?
 

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Ever figure things out?

Just decided to go through the thread to see the S10 box modification.

Hopefully you didnt end up with a bum transmission :(
 

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Discussion Starter #47
no i havent gotten it figured out yet. pulled the tcase and it seems fine, transmission has pressure so now i think i have a bum torque converter. but its too cold to pull the transmission again, maybe i can convince someone to use their garage.

i dont know what else it could be, if i cant get it figured out soon, i will probably have to use my tax return and have my trans guy fix it once and for all! want my truck back, i dont like driving anything else :(
 

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Its been too cold for me too, so i can empathasize.

I hope my trans works when i put it all back together...its my first time rebuilding one and im internally dual feeding, machined for an extra direct friction and steel and a bunch of other modifications im gonna be making. Plus the mechanical modulator...so im hoping everything is okay in the end.

Anyway, hope everything atarts moving ahead soon...the way the weather has been, ive got to hope for snowy days for it to warm up enough to work outdoors. If not ive got to wait til spring.

Ive been driving my work 2500HD or my parents 09 Sierra. Id still rather be in my Jimmy LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #49
quick update: finally bit the bullet and pulled the transmission and tcase and took them to a professional to see whats wrong. but since i havent gotten a call yet saying that there was an obvious and cheap to fix problem, guess its gonna get rebuilt.

the trans shop pointed out that what i have is a gm repuilt serta...serpa... something. but i guess actually done by gm not some backyard rebuild. im hoping there are still some good usable parts in there and at least i know that my trans is gonna work when i get it back in 2 weeks.

that will give me just enough time to make sure everything else is running and good to go so i can take it to the dyno at the end of next month! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #50
oh, and i will have to get some pictures up with how everything is setup under the hood. made a few changes like adding some group 65 batteries and relocating the coolant reservoir and also the washer fluid tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
Got a call from the transmission shop today, it was torn down and parts cleaned and the problem was discovered... the 1-2 clutches were completely gone as well as reverse! he told me he had never seen anything quite like it with both forward AND reverse gone.

No wonder i couldnt get it to move. and if all goes well I will have my shiny new 4l60/4l65e hybrid trans back by saturday!

Side note: if anyone is curious and would like a list of the upgraded parts, I can do that when i get the trans back since i cant remember everything off the top of my head! :)

The only thing i can remember is that it was rebuilt before and had the upgraded input shaft and they also put an '88 valve body in it. that was good news for me because it can easily have the plugs removed and converted to hydraulic lock-up! kinda nice to have torque converter lockup available in 3rd and 4th.
 

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Well. I have a switch in my 1990 Sub that I never knew what it did... I also have a brand new rebuilt 700r4. When I am running at 60mph and press the brakes, no lockup rpm change... Betting that switch was a manual controller for it... Hopefully the shop reconnected it and I can give it a try tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Well. I have a switch in my 1990 Sub that I never knew what it did... I also have a brand new rebuilt 700r4. When I am running at 60mph and press the brakes, no lockup rpm change... Betting that switch was a manual controller for it... Hopefully the shop reconnected it and I can give it a try tomorrow.
You are probably right that its for the manual lock up. if i want to go that route in the future it wont be too hard to adapt it, but i wanted the hydraulic lockup so i dont forget to turn the switch off and wear out the tcc in a hurry.

but i got her back today!!!!! and like an idiot i left the torque converter at the shop (which is 45 miles away) but luckily hes coming into town and will drop it off for me tomorrow! cant wait to get this thing back in and driving down the road again in style! my honda makes me feel like my butt is skidding along the ground, need a proper ride height like the 3/4 ton truck!

Another really cool thing happened today. my transmission guy asked me if i needed a 6.2 radiator. he had one he was going to use 4-5 years ago for his turbo 6.2 but got rid of the rig and it wouldnt fit with the intercooler on his cummins project, so i traded him my extra transfer case for it!!! great timing since my current radiator has a small leak at the top and sprays coolant all over the engine. turned out to be a pretty good day! :ro)
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Haven't updated this for a while and figure I should.

To sum up: had transmission problems with the new 4l60 so i had it rebuilt. still couldnt get the truck to move. come to find out my np208 transfer case was set up for a 32 spline and the 4l60 had a 27 spline. so it fit inside it and just spun without making contact. traded out my old tcase for a 27 spline that my transmission guy had on the shelf! awesome, now it moves!

had an oil leak from the turbo oil drain tube. there is a little 3" hose that connects the metal tube to the part that covers the old lift pump... not sure if that really makes sense because im not certain what all parts are technically called. im talking about the piece from the 6.5 engine that drains back into the block... anyway, the hose was a little too big and leaked so i had to replace that, what a freakin' pain that is! after i got it all done i got a helpful tip from the turbonators that if you cut the metal oil return tube and run an extra long piece of hose it becomes much much easier! now i know what to do next time :)

when i drove the truck for the first time in months it was really gutless, but i had no exhaust and the crossover is still off. but my tranny works and shifts great! but that non-spooling gm-3 turbo just suffocated the engine. when i fixed the oil leak, i just left the turbo off and drove it to the exhaust shop and it had a LOT more power! even though i was driving slow, it was amazing the difference it made not having that restriction there. i can see why people with a c-code intake are so keen to get a j-code!

so the truck is now waiting at the exhaust shop for its turn to get fitted up. they are going to modify my crossover to fit. its a stock 6.5 crossover but couldnt use the drivers side exhaust manifold off the 6.5 because of where my oil lines are, so im just using the original 6.2 manifold and they need to shorted the crossover and twist it just a little to make it work.

but everything is finally coming together! i can see the finish line and cant wait to cross it! next up is paint and then the lift. gonna have to do something about the sagging rear springs too. cant forget the new steering gear, cd player, pushbar and lights and gauges. then the wife wants to go over the whole inside starting with the headliner and she is thinking on making custom seat covers... I hope its leopard print!!! hahahaha

back on topic: when this gets the exhaust finished i will be making a vid of how it drives/sounds and go to a mountain pass somewhat nearby and see how she does now! before all these upgrades i coudnt go more that 35 mph empty up that pass, cant wait to see the difference!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
project is almost done... maybe.

spent the last month moving and havent had much time to do anything on the truck until now. i have the exhaust manifold back on (dont see why a professional shop couldnt do it in 3 hours when the wife and i did it in less time). the turbo oil drain is now leak free, but my oil feed is leaking. so i guess i get to make a replacement, i dont suppose those universal kits on ebay work?

i also need to finish the crossover, that is a whole bundle of fun. i bought some flexpipe hoping it would make it easier, but theres just one problem: it doesnt exactly flex! maybe its just the brand that i got, but it barely bends. so i need to do a little rethinking since all the exhaust shops around are useless.

another thing that i need is a heat shield for the turbo. i have had no luck finding one, and was wondering if anyone knew if something like this would work: Amazon.com: Godspeed T304 Stainless T3 T4 T3t4 T25 T04e T28 Gt30 Gt35 Turbo Heat Shield Fit Most Turbonetics / Garrett/ Godspeed/ Cxracing / Precision / Brogwarner Big Name Brand: Automotive
im pretty sure i could make something like that myself out of aluminum, but was wondering if its even worth it.
 

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that non-spooling gm-3 turbo just suffocated the engine. when i fixed the oil leak, i just left the turbo off and drove it to the exhaust shop and it had a LOT more power! even though i was driving slow, it was amazing the difference it made not having that restriction there. i can see why people with a c-code intake are so keen to get a j-code!
It's not the intake. It's the exhaust restriction. Fully porting my C-intake and adding a dual-snorlel cold-air setup from Air Inlet Systems of Canada was no noticeable improvement, but my Hooker dual exhaust was a huge improvement. I did the exhaust first, so I had a good-running C-10 before I tried the intake improvements. Plus it helped being a lightweight 2WD 1/2-ton pickup with 3.42:1 gears and 235/75R15 tires on aluminum wheels, all those give better performance than the weight of 4WD, the weight of Suburban, the weight of 3/4-ton, and the weight+drag of bigger wider tires on steel wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
several months later and there is progress!!!!!

been fed up with exhaust shops saying they cant do it or want $600+. we recently moved and all the money set aside for the suburban suddenly dissapeared... but finally tracked down a local place that had good flex pipe in the lengths i needed and all the other bits to make the crossover!

what we ended up doing was cutting the ends off the stock 6.5 crossover and used muffler sealer, flex pipe and clamps and got it running! instantly the sound was MUCH quieter with just the crossover (no turbo back exhaust yet). and i couldnt resist taking it for a spin.

the turbo spools when i barely hit the throttle :D and i got about 1/4 mile down the road before it died. turns out we knocked the power wire loose on the fuel pump. so some quick road side macgyver action and got it back home. i guess i should learn to stop taking shortcuts and just solder the thing once and for all.

that new 700 and the turbo made for a very exciting, albeit short, trip! love that turbo whistle!!!!!
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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several months later and there is progress!!!!!

been fed up with exhaust shops saying they cant do it or want $600+. we recently moved and all the money set aside for the suburban suddenly dissapeared... but finally tracked down a local place that had good flex pipe in the lengths i needed and all the other bits to make the crossover!

what we ended up doing was cutting the ends off the stock 6.5 crossover and used muffler sealer, flex pipe and clamps and got it running! instantly the sound was MUCH quieter with just the crossover (no turbo back exhaust yet). and i couldnt resist taking it for a spin.

the turbo spools when i barely hit the throttle :D and i got about 1/4 mile down the road before it died. turns out we knocked the power wire loose on the fuel pump. so some quick road side macgyver action and got it back home. i guess i should learn to stop taking shortcuts and just solder the thing once and for all.

that new 700 and the turbo made for a very exciting, albeit short, trip! love that turbo whistle!!!!!

:thumb: Great news, I think the flex pipe is a good enough choice, I've had a piece of flex pipe on my old Massey and it's lasted 6 years out in the weather
 

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It's not the intake. It's the exhaust restriction. Fully porting my C-intake and adding a dual-snorlel cold-air setup from Air Inlet Systems of Canada was no noticeable improvement, but my Hooker dual exhaust was a huge improvement. I did the exhaust first, so I had a good-running C-10 before I tried the intake improvements. Plus it helped being a lightweight 2WD 1/2-ton pickup with 3.42:1 gears and 235/75R15 tires on aluminum wheels, all those give better performance than the weight of 4WD, the weight of Suburban, the weight of 3/4-ton, and the weight+drag of bigger wider tires on steel wheels.
Just try a bigger intake, porting the C-code seems like a phenomenal waste of time when you can get wide open intakes for dirt cheap.

Getting rid of the C-code intake on mine made a helluva difference to the entire powerband.
 
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