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Discussion Starter #1
I still haven't decided which way to go (pre or post). I don't like the available locations for either. I have problems with both systems (most aesthetics).


What would be the disadvantages of replacing the oem fileter and head with a better head/filter design. I am pretty sure it would be fairly easy to do. Some of the advantages are you could hook it into the existing wiring for water sensor and heater. You would also have a very professional looking installation. I was thinking of getting a head that has autopriming available as well.


Any thoughts?
 

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My best guess as to why removing the OEM filter and replacing it with an aftermarket would be the following 3 reasons:


1) Warranty



2) Warranty



3) Warranty









Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
True, true, true however my dealer said that they do not have a problem with it.
 

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I don't know about the fuel filter question, but I sure like your little guy below what vehicle you drive.
 

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As soon as I hit 100K that OEM is outa there.
 

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The other aspect of supplemental filtration is the synergism that occurs between 2 filters. Even when one filter is not as efficient, when we have the opportunity to process particulates twice, much better efficiency ratio with capture. Even with the most efficient filter, it is not 'absolute' and the more times we run fuel through a filter, the more particulates that are going to be removed.. Especially in a low viscosity liquid like diesel fuel. Thus, keeping even our 50% OEM filter in the stream gives us twice the possibility of fine particulate capture.. In this case, for a change, "if two asperins are good, four are better!"
George Morrison, STLE CLSEdited by: Georgecls
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks George. That was one of my concerns as well. Unfortunately there is no one perfect way as far as I can tell. I appreciate everyones input.
 

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I just installed a Racor 2 mic filter in a loop from the tank back to the tank. I just fill up and the fuel recirculates through the new system. I didn't have to cut or change anything with the stock systems. Plus if the filter fills up it won't leave me stranded.
 

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Finishman said:
I just installed a Racor 2 mic filter in a loop from the tank back to the tank. I just fill up and the fuel recirculates through the new system. I didn't have to cut or change anything with the stock systems. Plus if the filter fills up it won't leave me stranded.
I like that idea. Got a pump on it? Tell us more.
 

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I just installed a Racor 2 mic filter in a loop from the tank back to the tank. I just fill up and the fuel recirculates through the new system. I didn't have to cut or change anything with the stock systems. Plus if the filter fills up it won't leave me stranded.


Now thats an excellant idea.
 

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I picked up a 5-9 psi pump at my local parts store and use it to pull through the cat base/racor filter combo. switch to shut off in cab. I installed 2 thinwall steel tubes that I bent to go to the bottom of the tank and used bulkhead fitting to go through the tank. Mounted the filter between the tank and driveshaft high as possible and plumbed with parker hose. I takes about 30 minutes to recirculate the tank at least once so I let it run for an hour the turn off till my next fill up. It is also wired to turn off with the ign in case I forget to turn off.
 

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I've been mulling over all these "pre" and "post" options for awhile, but I really like the sound of this. Any chance of getting some pictures and more details about the feed/exit plumbing into the tank? Where did you drill into the tank? This really sounds like a neat alternative!
 

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Anyone seen the pictures of the rust inside the cans of brand new OEM filters?? If so I would think the pre post thing should be solved. It is for me. I want a filter AFTER the stock filter that is rusting!!!!
 

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Not to mention the plate at the bottom of the media falling off. So far 2 plates have been reported to fall off of the media. Not sure how this correlates into percentages but not too many to date have been cut open. It's got my attention.
 

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I drilled as high up on the tank as I could, left of center from looking at the tank frrom the drive shaft. I cut one large hole for the two fitting in the shield. I could take some pics but don't know how to post them.
 

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FirstDiesel and a bear,

Looks like the Baldwins have a rust problem too. BlueOx03 inspected his stand-by Baldwin and found some spots. So do those with post-oem Baldwin filters now need a post-post filter? Since some of the OEM RACORS have rust, that would trigger my suspicions of their other filters. So far I haven't heard of any rust in the CAT filters. Have you?
 

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Don't know of any Cat filters that have been cut open. At least not posted here. The inside of my Baldwin filter was squeaky clean when I cut it. From what I hear the Cat is not wrapped in plastic. Only comes in a cardboard box. Has anyone cut open a Cat filter? Is there something different about the metal inside the Cat verses the Baldwin? The Baldwin has a water shedding media and coating in the can to shed water. The coating also protects the metal from rust. Its a water separating filter with a drain.(designed to handle water)


Mr X was this the Baldwin 7635(fuel filter) that was cut.
 

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perhaps we should look into the manufacturing processes. george seems to be very familiar with them, at least the CAT process. he told me the CAT is completely automated with no human intervention. i wonder if the other guys are 100% automated too? George, time to show us more of your wisdom!
 

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Automation is good provided guality repeatability is achieved. Takes the human error out for a low incidence of error. On a down side the condition of the parts (ie: rust in the can) would go unnoticed, although I would be compelled to think that the rust is coming from non climate controlled shelf storage which can make any filter a victim. I guess we should be concerned with the frequency of occurance and try to store our filters in a low humidity environment. Just my opinion.
 
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