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Yeah they were dead that’s why I hooked both trucks to them. Is it normal to take this long?
Yes, it can take an hour or more depending on how much air is in the system, with weak batteries.
You need fully charged batteries to spin things over fast enough to purge.
 

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Man! An hour! ? All you did was change the injectors., right? There shouldn't be that much air. You should go back to the lift pump, and make sure you have fuel coming from the tank, going to the IP. Something is up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I’ve got fuel going to the lift pump from the tank I’ve got fuel at each injector and I’ve got fuel at my return line.

I’m at a loss!!!!!!!! I finally got diesel mist/fog at my glow plugs and reinstalled them and tried to start it and this is what I got………

 

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I’ve got fuel going to the lift pump from the tank I’ve got fuel at each injector and I’ve got fuel at my return line.

I’m at a loss!!!!!!!! I finally got diesel mist/fog at my glow plugs and reinstalled them and tried to start it and this is what I got………

Did you get the fuel fog from all holes or just a few?
From the video, It looks like there is still some air in the system
 

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So you've gone from a stalled out truck, to a dead miss, and now it won't run...again? Because you now have "some" fuel up there, maybe it'll work it's way up fully. Once it runs a bit, it should clear out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Yeah I got fog at all the glow holes. It’s getting late here so I’m going to call it a day. I’m going to drop some new batteries (like you mentioned they are dragging) in it sometime this week and if I’m not working this weekend I will give her another try.
 

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Is it just me, or does that video sound a heck of a lot more like a major mechanical issue (broke **** inside)?

Less "doom" question, you've checked that all your glow plugs are good?

Something I've done to bleed the last of the air out of the IP is crack the return fitting open and crank a little letting some fuel/air out. Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
UPDATE:

Now that it’s warmer i thought i would dig back into the burban. I Dropped 2 new batteries (800 cold cranking amps) in, bled everything, hooked two sets of jumper cables to the batteries and attached them to my 2500HD 6.6LML and turned it over for 10-15 minutes same result.DOES this sound like trapped air to anyone? To me it sounds like something is broke. I have NOT tried cracking the IP return line……..Will I need to crack the injector lines again or just the IP return line? I’m still at a loss. If I can’t get it figured out I guess I will need to take it to a pro. I’m really hoping it’s nothing and I’m just an idiot and am overlooking something simple.

Here’s the video:
 

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The pink wire is removed when purging air to prevent pumping air through the pump. Filter needs to be primed first so crank while watching bleed port on filter. Then prime the line to the IP by loosening the fitting at the IP. Now loosen each of the 8 lines to injectors at the injectors. Just loose enough to allow a tiny bit of movement of the line at the nut. About 1/2 turn is plenty. Now you need the pink wire on the pump and energized as you need fuel flow. Once you have fuel at all 8, tighten all and try to start.

If you pull all 8 glow plugs, the engine will spin faster and will draw less current. Well worth the trouble if you don't have a turbo manifold blocking access.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
?
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Oh, ok. Thanks for letting me know.
 

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Oh, ok. Thanks for letting me know.
They mostly go for the oddball thread and post useless gibberish.
If it looks out of place then it most likely is a bot (y)
 
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Take air filter off, get a can of wd-40. If it runs on wd, then you have a fuel problem. After a ip change that's how we would bleed injectors. Pick one and crack it just a little. Run on wd till fuel comes out, tighten it and move over to another. After you get 4 or more done it will probably run with little to no wd. And allow you to finish the rest. Saves on starter and batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
So I’m still hacking away at the burban. It’s been hard finding time to work on it. So far she’s still a No-Start. I’ve thrown in new batteries, new injectors, new glow plugs, a new fuel pump, new fuel filter, pulled the front cover off to check the timing, injector pump, which I thought could have been the issue turns out to be working good. I’ve tried starting with the gas cap off with no luck.

Thinking of throwing a new glow plug control module on it and if that’s not it, I guess put some clear line on the return from the IP and see if I’m getting air in the system. I bled the system through the filter and got some air bubbles when I first changed out the injectors but haven’t seen any since then. I’m getting fuel to all the injectors so I’m not thinking it’s a fuel issue…….

Other than that I’m at a loss. I can’t figure this thing out………….
 

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Listening to your video above, (like you said), sounds like something is busted.
If you pulled the glo plugs, cracked the fuel lines, cranked the thing long enuff to get fuel outta all the B nuts, I guess we would think there's enuff fuel for it to at least start. But that clunking noise when you tried starting it, doesn't sound pretty. Have you tried a compression test? On all cylinders? If not, I would do that next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Listening to your video above, (like you said), sounds like something is busted.
If you pulled the glo plugs, cracked the fuel lines, cranked the thing long enuff to get fuel outta all the B nuts, I guess we would think there's enuff fuel for it to at least start. But that clunking noise when you tried starting it, doesn't sound pretty. Have you tried a compression test? On all cylinders? If not, I would do that next.
Yeah the way it’s clunking and jerking, almost made me think like it’s the crank or a busted rod. Like I said when it shut down it was smooth. She just cut off at 65mph almost like the IP over heated or something. No jerking or surging, she just cut off and I coasted to the side of the road. I have a spare running 6.2L and almost think it would be better to swap out the engines and then rebuild the one in it on the engine stand. That would be a short term fix. My dilemma is the engine that is in it now I’m familiar with and know everything that’s been done to it. The spare I seen running before it was removed for a Cummins swap, but other than that I don’t know a thing about it. Any thoughts…………..?
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Crazy question: Does the 6.2l use the glow plugs in post starting or are they for starting only? Follow up to that is there a wiring diagram / Firing order to the glow plugs?

Just wondering if maybe some of the wires got put on the wrong glow plugs and could that be causing the non-start.
 

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No firing order, just a hot wire to all of them at the same time. If you've ever bench tested them, on the harness, they should all glo red hot every time the controller cycles. But I'ld be more worried about that knocking noise coming outta yours.
And rather than giving up on yours totally for the other one, I would still spend a bit more time troubleshooting yours. A compression test is easy, and will give you honest information. If all cylinders are pumping, (about 400 LBs,) then next I would rip off the valve covers, and watch the valvetrain operate. "If" you're confident all injectors are free of air, and are receiving fuel.
 
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