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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Merry Christmas All!!!!!!!!

I’m hoping to turn a Christmas nightmare into a Christmas miracle………..

The wife and I were coming up to VA (3.5 hour trip) to see her parents in our 1991 Suburban V2500 6.2L Diesel which has about 330k on the old ticker. When hit the mountains she started to fall behind more and more until I had the go fast pedal to the floor and she was barely maintaining 55mph. 30 minutes from the finish line she just shuts off while doing 55mph uphill. Tried to restart and almost sounded like the batteries were dead (but they are actually new) and she would whine and grown to barely turn over. Called a tow truck to finish the last leg of the race.

My first thought is IP over heated so after letting it sit a few hours she turned over two or three times and fired up!!!!!!! Motor shaked, rattled and jumped around so hard I thought it was going to break a motor mount. She was putting out black smoke when trying to start which went away when she went into rough idle. I through some Diesel 911 in and she settled down some (no more violent shaking) but still running rough. After about 5-6 minutes of idling she shut down. Sounded like she was starving for fuel or air. The week prior we drove it 6.5 hours down to Florida without even a hick-up. I’m thinking the steep inclines was too much strain on an old worn out engine.


My thoughts and ideas;
1) Bad IP pump with 330k miles on it
2) Water/Fuel separator and/or air filter clogged
3) IP fuel shut off solenoid bad
4) injector stuck open
5) maybe glow plugs
6) I really have no clue…….. LOL



The nightmare;
I’m 3.5 hours from home just a small ratchet set and a few hand tools with me and nothing is open until tomorrow. Gives me a day to research, read the forums and troubleshoot to narrow the possible issue down or it’s a high price long tow home.

The miracle;
Somebody is sitting around after that big Christmas dinner and is droning in and out between Christmas movies and/or football and will pick up their phone and jump on the forum and say “that exact thing happened to me”! Here’s the quick fix to get you home and Christmas is saved!!!!!!!!!

Any help would be greatly appreciated and again Merry Christmas to you and your families.
 

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Merry Christmas All!!!!!!!!

I’m hoping to turn a Christmas nightmare into a Christmas miracle………..

The wife and I were coming up to VA (3.5 hour trip) to see her parents in our 1991 Suburban V2500 6.2L Diesel which has about 330k on the old ticker. When hit the mountains she started to fall behind more and more until I had the go fast pedal to the floor and she was barely maintaining 55mph. 30 minutes from the finish line she just shuts off while doing 55mph uphill. Tried to restart and almost sounded like the batteries were dead (but they are actually new) and she would whine and grown to barely turn over. Called a tow truck to finish the last leg of the race.

My first thought is IP over heated so after letting it sit a few hours she turned over two or three times and fired up!!!!!!! Motor shaked, rattled and jumped around so hard I thought it was going to break a motor mount. She was putting out black smoke when trying to start which went away when she went into rough idle. I through some Diesel 911 in and she settled down some (no more violent shaking) but still running rough. After about 5-6 minutes of idling she shut down. Sounded like she was starving for fuel or air. The week prior we drove it 6.5 hours down to Florida without even a hick-up. I’m thinking the steep inclines was too much strain on an old worn out engine.


My thoughts and ideas;
1) Bad IP pump with 330k miles on it
2) Water/Fuel separator and/or air filter clogged
3) IP fuel shut off solenoid bad
4) injector stuck open
5) maybe glow plugs
6) I really have no clue…….. LOL



The nightmare;
I’m 3.5 hours from home just a small ratchet set and a few hand tools with me and nothing is open until tomorrow. Gives me a day to research, read the forums and troubleshoot to narrow the possible issue down or it’s a high price long tow home.

The miracle;
Somebody is sitting around after that big Christmas dinner and is droning in and out between Christmas movies and/or football and will pick up their phone and jump on the forum and say “that exact thing happened to me”! Here’s the quick fix to get you home and Christmas is saved!!!!!!!!!

Any help would be greatly appreciated and again Merry Christmas to you and your families.
Welcome and Merry Christmas !

I would install a piece of clear fuel line on the return side of the IP to help locate any air in fuel issues
(y)
 
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84 K30 CUCV 6.2, 98 Suburban 6.5, 99 Suburban 6.5, 06 Ram 5.9
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Merry Christmas!!

1984 CUCV with 6.2 had similar issue. Turned out to be the fuel pump, however I would also start with the clear fuel line. As strong and reliable as these motors are, it's amazing how even a little air brings them to their knees..

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome and Merry Christmas !

I would install a piece of clear fuel line on the return side of the IP to help locate any air in fuel issues
(y)
10-4 sounds good. I will do that first thing in the morning when stores open. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Merry Christmas!!

1984 CUCV with 6.2 had similar issue. Turned out to be the fuel pump, however I would also start with the clear fuel line. As strong and reliable as these motors are, it's amazing how even a little air brings them to their knees..

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
I love my 6.2’s. They’re not made for rolling coal but you can’t beat the fuel mileage. As soon as stores open tomorrow I will grab some clear tubing. Thanks!
 

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Loosen the gas cap. Not the first time I've had a rig do similar to that because it vacuum'ed the gas tank and wont pump fuel. I use to get a call almost every september from and old customer because their lawnmower did that towards the end of the season.

From there I would guess fuel pump.

The black soot is because the IP goes full fuel at 0rpm if I remember correctly. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Loosen the gas cap. Not the first time I've had a rig do similar to that because it vacuum'ed the gas tank and wont pump fuel. I use to get a call almost every september from and old customer because their lawnmower did that towards the end of the season.

From there I would guess fuel pump.

The black soot is because the IP goes full fuel at 0rpm if I remember correctly. Good luck!
Thanks! I will give that a try also.
 

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History on fuel filter ?

What fuel filter setup do you have ? If it's the square box on the firewall, open the bleeder and crank it over, fuel should squirt out and hit the hood if your lift pump is good.
 
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History on fuel filter ?

What fuel filter setup do you have ? If it's the square box on the firewall, open the bleeder and crank it over, fuel should squirt out and hit the hood if your lift pump is good.
I always liked that setup.The model 80 was great when it functioned okay but sometimes they allow air entry into the housing and they leak fuel from the water drain port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright so I changed the water fuel separator filter, bled all the air out of the lines and she’s running but running rough. She won’t shut off and stays running but rough. I don’t know how to post a video on here. But here’s a link to Vemo;


So now I’m back to thinking it’s IP or I have an injector stuck open. When I checked the oil this morning it was what looked to be half a quart to a quart high. Wondering if that would support my
Stuck injector theory? Could it be glow plugs? Keep in mind I’m 3.5 hours away from home up in the VA/WVA mountains.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
By VA/WVA mountains I mean I’m up here with minimal tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update:

So it turns out my #2 injector is stuck open. We tried taking a wrench and opening it to release pressure on the injectors hoping that it would close it. No dice. Was hoping it would close and we could burn off what ever was in that cylinder but it was dumping fuel into it faster than we could burn it off (getting raw fuel at the exhaust) so it would bog down. I won’t know more until I start digging into it. But I will keep everyone posted.
Plan right now is to change out the injectors and IP and see how that goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update;

I towed the burb back home. So plenty of tools on hand now I’m going to get elbow deep in it. So my thoughts are to;

1) Drain oil because it has about a 1/2 to 1qt of fuel in the pan.
2) Top off oil with 7 qts of 10W30
3) Remove #2 Injector (stuck open)
4) Unplug fuel shut off solenoid
5) Turn engine over to push out fuel trapped in the cylinder
6) Install new injector and bleed off air
7) Plug in fuel shut off solenoid and start engine

Question;

Am I on the right track or am I lost in the sauce?
It is a 30mm socket for the injector and a 3/4in wrench for fuel line right? Any insight will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No suggestions? Well I appreciate the help so far. Thanks for all those who chimed in.
 

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I think you've definitely got a handle on it. You may want to also visit that fuel sock in the tank. At 330K miles, it might be pretty nasty. If its not clogged, it could be torn (maybe that's what caused your injector to stick open). Make sure you replace it for one made for a diesel and not the gas version. The IP is the most expensive item on your list, and I would probably visit that last. Just crank it all the way up and see how it runs first before replacing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So when you say turn it up do you mean the fast idle or turning/rotating the IP? I’ve never turned/rotated an IP to give the engine some pep in its step.

you wouldn’t happen to know the part number to the fuel sock in the tank would you?
 

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Give it some pep. Its that allen head bolt inside the box. There are lots of videos on Youtube. Mine is maxed out. I think these pumps are only good for about 200hp stock. I'll need to go with a modified IP if I ever want to roll coal with my holset turbo. I do not have the number for that fuel sock. Rock auto is a good source for part numbers so you can compare the diesel number to the gasoline number.
 

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Sorry, new to this thread. Glad you got your 'burb home OK. (Santa must've been good to you.)
Question #1. How did you determine the #2 inj. was stuck open? By your video, it did sound like a good possibility.
As for changing out the IP, I too would put that last on the list, W/O positive evidence. Very expensive, and not easy to do. If you're having a problem with it running on after shut-off, I would definitely check out the fuel shut off in the IP 1st. Easy to access, and replace if needed.
 

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No suggestions? Well I appreciate the help so far. Thanks for all those who chimed in.
I have rebuilt many of the old injectors and have found that the newer ULSD fuel has so little lubricity that it scores the injection needle causing it to stick in its bore. ALWAYS add a lubricity additive to the diesel fuel. The best is 2 cycle engine oil (or vegetable oil) but there are other branded lubricity additives on the market.
 

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Home heating oil, kerosene, diesel fuel don't have any "lubricity"? Seriously? An additive is needed? Any documentation to back that up? (Besides the promoter of said additive).
 
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