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Discussion Starter #1
i bought a compression spring about 2 inches x 1/2 - 5/8 inch wide. a 4 inch eyebolt, 4 washers, 3 nuts to fit one screw, 1 threaded rod nut, and one wingnut and a chunk of sturdy metal. i removed the old wastegate controller and vice gripped it to the chunk of metal and drilled 2 holes and hacksawed some metal out of the way to clear the wategate arm. then wishing i had a vice attemted a 90 degree bend. tighten a nut and bolt to the wastegate arm. attach the 90 degree metal chunk to the turbo, drill a hole in the metal to give yourself a good line of sight with the way the eyebolt will travel. i had to drill three holes and filed some of the threads off the eyebolt so as it goes up or down does not snag on the metal. or rub too much. you can see from the pics how yours should look. but for 3.20 in HOME DEPOT parts. the spring does not have any info on it just the bin # that it was in. it will hit 11 lbs and hold at 4 lbs highway. i did the mod for 2 reasons. i didn't know it but my wife says i smoke black on hard acceleration or starts. after the mod i had her follow me and her words were whatever you did it does not smoke one iota. the other reason was i just swapped out the entire exhaust system, everything. no cat no x-over crap. that was ok but this mech wastegate was the icing on the cake. sweet... one thing i noticed was after loading the camper on i had to back off the nut for the boost level. was spiking upwards tooo high. i'd assume i'll have to adjust it for varying loads like boat or camper or both at the sametime as well as unloaded.
 

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What compensation was made to fool the ECM?
 

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i'm in the process of doing the same thing, except i'm using the bracket off the original actuator (i just knocked the diaphragm pot off). I have a spring and some stainless pipe to cover the spring so it doesnt bind. Now just getting time to do it (and all my friends 6.5's when i get mine done lmao) is the hard part.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What compensation was made to fool the ECM?
nothing, i didn't know i had to. i capped off the vacumn line.. so as to not throw a low boost code, i figured if you can safely run 10 lbs boost why not be able to hold it at that amount on acceleration. i'm not planning anything other than regular driving till i get a egt gauge.
 

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nothing, i didn't know i had to. i capped off the vacumn line.. so as to not throw a low boost code, i figured if you can safely run 10 lbs boost why not be able to hold it at that amount on acceleration. i'm not planning anything other than regular driving till i get a egt gauge.
Smart move, that.

Tim
 

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I bought a 3ft piece of 1/4 round bar (like all thread with out the threads), 2 washers, a clip ring, a compression spring, and a stop washer. Cut the bar to desired length, bent one end to a 90 degree, then threaded boths ends. Built a repleca of the vacume bracket out of 1/8in steel. Installed the bent end through the old hole and stuck the clip ring on it. Then installed the bracket with the rod running through the hole. Ran a washer down the rod put the spring on put the other washer on and put the nut on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
nice job, as a finishing touch i'd add a second nut to the fix. it'll stop and lock the single one on there from backing off. how well does yours work. what kind of boost #'s and will it hold those #'s. reason for asking is it appears your spring is of thinner steel than the one i am using.
 

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nice job, as a finishing touch i'd add a second nut to the fix. it'll stop and lock the single one on there from backing off. how well does yours work. what kind of boost #'s and will it hold those #'s. reason for asking is it appears your spring is of thinner steel than the one i am using.
No need for a 2nd nut that one has the nylon in the top that secures it, a.k.a stop nut, aircraft nut, nylon nut. There is actually two springs there, but I am not driving the truck right now, I just installed it today and still in the process of installing gauges, d-max fan, hi pop marine injectors. Will let ya know soon enough.
 

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just thought i'd post my pic of my homemade TM. easy to do, used stock bracket from WG. Mainly did this becaue my vacuum pump is about to die on me...
 

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What do you have to do to the computer for this mod? I don't plan on overboosting it, but staying at the stock boost settings.
I am asking because I am thinking about buying one that I know has a vacuum system problem.
 

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What do you have to do to the computer for this mod? I don't plan on overboosting it, but staying at the stock boost settings.
Nada, stock boost being the key phrase.
 

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What do you have to do to the computer for this mod? I don't plan on overboosting it, but staying at the stock boost settings.
I am asking because I am thinking about buying one that I know has a vacuum system problem.
What year and model and F or S code engine

have any mods been done to this potential buy, once you get it, make sure you include info in your signature, as mentioned before running stock levels nothing additional should be required
 

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A resistor (boost fooler) on the MAP or an upgraded $$ PCM will keep the SES light off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
A resistor (boost fooler) on the MAP or an upgraded $$ PCM will keep the SES light off.
Would that be for an "S" engine. My ses light has never come on, except when starting the engine. And I have the "F" engine. As a word of caution when doing a tm, make sure you have a boost gauge. When I first drove it after the mod i had the setting pretty tight and watched the boost gauge come up to 16 fast. And don't do a boost gauge and tm on the same day. Drive the truck around for quite a few miles. Learn what the computer stock boost rates are. I believe 12 lbs at most and it drops off after that. It'll give you an idea as to whether or not your gauge is accurate. I've heard some stories about inaccurate gauges and if it gives you a false low, you could possibly be selling engine parts on ebay.
 

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Okay I got my truck back togther, this is the 1st time I have driven it with the TM installed. At 1st I had no boost, then I tigtened the nut down a few turns and got some boost (0psi crusing, 7psi WOT), tightened the nut down more and get no boost and tons of black smoke. So I tried a diffrent spring, stiffer spring, and all I get with it is black smoke. I am just lost as to how you set these things. With my vacume wastegate I am getting about 3 psi at crusing and 9 WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
just as an experiment try wiring the wastegate shut and give it some throttle on the road to see what your boost comes up to. the spring i bought was a home depot compression spring. it's pretty stiff. the more you tighten it down the more boost it will build. i have to adjust it periodically when either the camper or boat or both are loaded. toying with the idea of building a boost activated wastegate with in cab mounted bleeder so i can adjust it from my seat. that would mean rotaing the wastegate arm 180 degrees and relocating the the stock setup further to the rear of the truck. so it pushes rather than pulls. same effect. then if someone can post a link to the page that showed a bleeder valve and how to build it would be helpful.
 

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If the spring is stiff whats the point in it why not just get rid of the spring and put a washer and nut on it and adjust it that way?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If the spring is stiff whats the point in it why not just get rid of the spring and put a washer and nut on it and adjust it that way?

variability, exhaust pressure varies depending on load. me thinks you'd have no boost or lots depending on speed, rpm and throttle position. too many variables. and if that's the case why did chevy not just do that in the 1st place, their bean counters could have jumped in, but more likely the engineers had overruled them on that idea. sure they could have rigged up mech wastegates from the factory but then they'd have to supply us with extra gauges and bean counters would have overruled them on that count. too many people put to much faith in idiot lights and they'd have had to warranty to many engines. like i said i have to adjust the mech wastegate for varying loads. someone on this site made a boost activated wastegate controller and i'm wanting to do a simpler way of doing the same thing.
 

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Mechanical Wastegate

Seems to me that in order for the mechanical wastegate to work properly,the spring has to be of the proper compression rate.I d'ont think that any old spring will do, out of the hardware store.I'll bet that Heaths TM , has a spring of the correct calculated rate, to deliver the correct resistance across the range of travel.Anyone know how to figure this out? Any spring engineers ,with all the brains on this site, some one, must know.Just throwing this out there, as I have'nt a clue how to work it out.:confused:
Tony
 

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Today I cranked the nut all the way down and hit it i got a few lbs of boost at the 1st then no boost and lots of black smoke. Then I had to run into town (30 miles away) so i put my vacume back on and got 3 psi crusing and 7 at WOT. I know I am over looking/thinking something here.
 
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