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Discussion Starter #1
I've gotten mixed claims on this and I want to put this to rest already. I want to know how much air space there is behind the seat of a crew cab so I have an idea if my subwoofer plans are going to be good or not. I need 1.5-2.0 cu. ft. total. Not sure if I'll be using 3/4" or 5/8" MDF. As of right now, the plan is not to use any bracing, so that won't take away from the air space. Also, what is the MAXIMUM depth so I know whether or not the subs I want to use will fit or not. THANK YOU.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd like to go to the top of the plastic panel on the wall (bottom of the window) and all the way to the side panels with the vents removed. That should be a good amount of space, but need to know how much.
 

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Im finishing a box now for 2 imagedynamic 10's. Very tight!!! had to use 1/2 mdf to get enough depth and i removed the flap behind the seat. I ended up with about .7 cubic ft per side. I should have some pics in the next couple of days. I HAVE drawn the plans on autocad AND i can forward them out if your interested. Stu
 

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No storage flaps, trim panel to trim panel with no vent tubes, to the bottom of the window trim, built with 3/4" MDF and no internal bracing or center divider will get you exactly 1.853 cu ft before woofer displacement. 1.768 after woofer displacement for 2 JL10W3's.

Without moving the rear seat foward a good deal (like 1 1/2"), going to the glass buys you next to nothing (0.12) and makes the box very difficult to build and seal.

Same as above,with the rear seat rails slotted 1/2" gets you 1.967 cu ft before woofer displacement (0.04 per).

I sent you an e-mail, but the board doesn't support attachments in e-mail.
John
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Seems like enough air space. I want to either use the 10W3V3s or the 10W3V2s. I believe the V3s are a tad better, but also require a little more mounting depth.

I want to build it from side panel to side panel with vents removed, the flap removed, tabs cut off, and the box all the way to the floor.

When you say bottom of the window trim, are you referring to the actual bottom of the window or the trim below it? Because the panel below the window isn't flush with the wall. It "humps" out if you start your way from the bottom.

I sent you a PM by the way with my email so that you can send anything that could help me out.

THANKS!
 

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When you say bottom of the window trim, are you referring to the actual bottom of the window or the trim below it? Because the panel below the window isn't flush with the wall. It "humps" out if you start your way from the bottom.
The bottom of the trim panel below the window. You have to come out almost 2" to get around the panel. The panel sticks out so far because there is a re-inforcement brace below the window that is also used as the attachment point for child seat straps. You can see it in my pics of the back wall of the trucks in my garage.

Plans on the way.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So is this to the BOTTOM of the window, TOP of the panel below the window, or the BOTTOM of the panel below the window?
 

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The bottom of the panel below the window.
John
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow, really. So is there no reason to go over that hump (panel) to get a little more air space? I am surprised that going from side panel to side panel with the vents, flap, and tabs remove, to the floor and to the bottom of the panel below the window you get 1.853 cu ft. before subwoofer displacement.
 

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You have the plans with the math on them. Like I said, above the trim panel buys very little air space and make the top edge of the box difficult to build and seal unless you move the seat up a bunch..
John
 
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