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You can hear the difference in sound when the clutch is pushed in and out. With the truck in nuetral there is a slight rattle, when the clutch is pushed in you can hear the clutch "wisking" Also its sounds different than stock at startup and shut down. Enjoy.

http://www2.gvsu.edu/~larawaym/video/CIMG1658.AVI
 

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Thanks for the video! The rattle sounds less than on my truck (prior DDC w/ no sprung hubs but with Fluidampr). The 'whisking' sounds about the same or maybe a little less. I think this will be very helpful for interested guys.

Thanks,

John
 

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What is Max Con CB?
Does it quiten the clutch noises?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Max con CB is a dual disc ceramic sprung hub clutch.

It does seem to be quieter than the original DD cluch setups.
 

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Sounds pretty good. Even the stock clutch will change tune like that when the clutch is disengaged and engaged. Looking forward to it, Peter said it is being shipped today.
 

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4WARNED;1603252; said:
You can hear the difference in sound when the clutch is pushed in and out. With the truck in nuetral there is a slight rattle, when the clutch is pushed in you can hear the clutch "wisking" Also its sounds different than stock at startup and shut down. Enjoy.

http://www2.gvsu.edu/~larawaym/video/CIMG1658.AVI
I bet if you had a fluidampr also the slight rattle would completely evaperate and there would be no impact at all on the input shaft.
 

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How much of a PITA is the Fluidampr to install? I'm guessing when I tear into it I should go big or go home...
 

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It's pretty simple:

1. Need a damper puller/installer. Fluidamper offers one, but it's pricey last I knew. I have an OTC (I think) that worked fine on the last Fluidamper I installed (about 110 years ago). Don't use the large damper bolt that threads into the crank snout to install the damper; if you do and something binds, you risk stripping the threads in the crank.

2. You'll need some way to prevent the crank from turning as you torque down damper. Fab a metal stop that bolts to the starter mounting holes and engages the ring gear.

3. You'll need to clear out the area around the damper for the actual remove & install: remove the belt, fan shroud, maybe the fan itself,.... maybe some other easy stuff that'll be obvious once you're doing it.

Bill
 

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Is there anywhere else I can listen to the clip?? My aol media player thing trys to connect then just stops...POS!
 

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wreckingball;1609620; said:
It's pretty simple:

1. Need a damper puller/installer. Fluidamper offers one, but it's pricey last I knew. I have an OTC (I think) that worked fine on the last Fluidamper I installed (about 110 years ago). Don't use the large damper bolt that threads into the crank snout to install the damper; if you do and something binds, you risk stripping the threads in the crank.

2. You'll need some way to prevent the crank from turning as you torque down damper. Fab a metal stop that bolts to the starter mounting holes and engages the ring gear.

3. You'll need to clear out the area around the damper for the actual remove & install: remove the belt, fan shroud, maybe the fan itself,.... maybe some other easy stuff that'll be obvious once you're doing it.

Bill

1. You don't need a "puller/installer' for a Dmax. Once you get a bolt off the harmonic balancer you can pull it off with your hands. To install you need to put some special anti-siese grease ( comes in the instructions).

2. If you have a DD clutch you can put tranny in 5th or 6th gear and it will hold. With DMF you can slip a screw driver into the bellhousing hole on the passenger side an into the pressure plate to hold the crankshaft. If a Allison, you may be able to do the same. Check the bellhousing for a hole.

3. Correct. You will need a 36mm socket and a breaker bar. also a 4' steel gas pipe to lengthen the breaker bar.

4. the Fluidampr is slightly larger diameter than the stock on. The lower driver side bolt on the water pump will have to be replaced. Get a longer bolt with same thread and a nut for it. slide the Fluidampr on to check how long the stud should be get the nut on but not to touch the Fludiampr. Put the nut on the bolt and cut the bolt into a stud. Back the nut off to clean out the threads. Saw the end of the stud to fit a screw driver. Put some Locktite on the stud and screw it in before you put the Fluidampr on.

Been a year since I did this so I how I got all the info you need. You will receive some installation instructions from VibratechTVD but I don't recall that it has #4 in it.

Hope this helps,

John
 
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