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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There were doubts even by me.
It turns out you dont need "standard tension" oil rings in a diesel (I consider them standard friction oil rings now). Its mainly to keep the the oil out of the combustion chamber in engines that draw a lot of vacuum like the gassers, this was the only reason I found for really needing to have them. I never could find a good reason why they were needed in a no vacuum N/A or turbo diesel.

I had my doubts when the brand new engine consumed a little over a quart of oil with in the first 500 miles of highway driving.
Then the next 1,700 miles it didn't consume any oil as far as I could tell.
I am sure the valve seals I installed helped too.

The standard tension oil rings pack 20 to 25 pounds of spring force when installed. Since I dont have the fancy oil ring spring tension gauge I reduced the spring length until the tension felt as if it was reduced to between 1/4 to 1/3 what it started out as. I was going for about 7 pounds and no less than 5 pounds of spring. Then after I got the first oil ring the way I wanted it, from there on it was only a matter of cutting the other oil ring springs down to the same length. (I took about 3/8'' off them)

Why reduce oil ring tension?
Less friction, more power to the wheels, easier to crank the engine over when cold and better fuel economy.
A side by side comparason with low tension oil rings Vs. standard showed the low tension oil ringed piston was much easier to push and pull up and down the cylinder bore by hand.
 

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Your rig been through emissions yet? You can't measure the amount of engine oil it takes to fail a smoke test on the dipstick. I would be curious as to how well they pass this test with as 'dry' as the engine needs to be to even pass.
 

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the new technology low tension rings work better than the older high tension did. people who use low tension include nascar. and we know that these engines cannot use any oil or the resulting detonation would cause catosrophic failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The new engine still consumes no oil after the 500 mile or so break in.
I only drove it from eastern virginia to newmexico. I brought a gallon of synthetic rotella and only used it that one time.
I am use to the old 6.2L consuming about 1qt every 1100 to 1200 miles and leaking a quart about every 3 to 4 weeks.

The biggest differences between the old 6.2L and my hand build 6.5L are cold starting ease (its a non issue on freezing mornings), idle smoothness, idle EGTs are lower, total lack of oil consumption, much lower noise (I use to put on ear muffs when working over the running engine), no oil leaks, more oil pressure, no smoke at lower speeds, much more low end torque.
Over all power, load carry and hill climbing is better but not as much as an improvement as I would have liked to see. But I still need to play with the injector pump timing.

Gas engines have to run a vacuum pump and about 8'' to 10'' Hg of crank case vacuum with low tension rings to keep oil out of the combustion chamber. I believe I read that they use very low tension oil rings (3 to 5 pounds of spring) I wanted to be semi safer with at least 5 pounds.
I would dare to go lower next time.
 

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Subscribed very good info
 

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Your rig been through emissions yet? You can't measure the amount of engine oil it takes to fail a smoke test on the dipstick. I would be curious as to how well they pass this test with as 'dry' as the engine needs to be to even pass.
don't know about va but no emissions here for diesels till 07 model year
 

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the new technology low tension rings work better than the older high tension did. people who use low tension include nascar. and we know that these engines cannot use any oil or the resulting detonation would cause catosrophic failure.
nascar engines are rebuilt after 500 miles though so they don't need to last like a street vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Fuel milage looks good.
With the aluminum 24 foot ladder on top, loaded down with tools, parts and towing my utility trailer and I wasn't driving it easy my suburban got 21mpg.
That is more than a lot of people with large vehicles could ever hope to get when unloaded.

No emmissions in maine, virginia or newmexico.
 

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thats what my burb got too with just a gutted exhaust
 

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I've gotten 22 mpg., not a major feat, but respectable all the same.
 

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21 MPG towing any kind of trailer is great. Cant compare it to just driving around empty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Empty Highway mpg before I tore the engine down was hitting 25mpg or better no problem.

I wasn't towing a lot of weight, about 1000lb (not counting the weight of the trailer), but the ladder on top and the trailer its self is a pretty bad aerodynamic penilty.

On my truck with the old engine in stock configuration, when towing a 3 ton car trailer with car I lost 6 to 7mpg (started out at about 21mpg towing the car dropped it to 15mpg, this was back in like 2005). But that number is very non linier, I noticed I lost about 1mpg with the addition of as little as 500lb on the highway through out all configurations over the last 6 years.
 

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I just noticed that it is non-turbo that explains the great fuel economy towing. My truck really sucks a lot more fuel down towing because of it running boost all the time. But a better turbo would help a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I am going with a HE351VE converted to mechanical control.

I just want to be able to maintain speed going over hills when towing with out melting the pistons.
 

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How does the electric fan setup work for you when towing? I have always heard they wont move enough air when towing to keep engine cool but it seems to be working for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So far its always worked fine.
But have not tried to tow more than about 2000lb since the electric install.
I think electric fans and water mist injection can keep it cool in newmexico in summer.
If anything the electric coolant pump is causing me to run a little warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I ran another tank of fuel throught the truck just driving around town going to and from the hardware store most of the time the engine did not warm up, then refilled the fuel and put another 350 unloaded all highway miles on there today and as far as I can tell the oil level has not moved.
I also ran with the crank case vent unhooked for most of that in town tank, because I switched to an F-code intake and pennsular diesel upper plenum and had not hooked the tuna can back up to the intake.
 
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