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Discussion Starter #1
I looked at a Topkick 4500 crew cab custom for pulling a fifth wheel.....big bucks. My question what am I getting? Has the same engine and tranny as my 2500HD crew cab short box. It weighs several thousand lbs more yet has more capacity for towing? Is this all suspension and braking?
 

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Suspension, breaking, frame, diffs, wheels, tires, among other things. It is a lot bigger truck, but I couldn't handle the $.
 

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I do like those topkicks/kodiaks! pretty expensive for what you get though... have you thought about a freightliner fl60?

btw, can you get tokicks/kodiaks in a 4x4?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Haven't looked seriously, will make a long trip this summer with the fifth wheel and see how my truck does. I've added air bags, 4" Banks exhaust, K&N air filter, full set of gauges, 265 E rated tires, no chip. My new fifth wheel is an Alpenlite or maybe it should be Alpenheavy, 37' Portafino, dry weight 13,400. Have thought about full timing for a couple of years, then I would get serious about a hauler.
 

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I say put a chip in your truck, I couldn't be happier towing with the edge juice with attitude. Its a night and day difference!
 

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Going to a Medium Duty truck or staying with a Light Truck is a personal decision based on gains and compromises. Different tools for different uses.

Example:
Your typical personal toolbox, for example, would contain 1/4 and 3/8 drive wrenches and sockets, which would be normaly used to do most mechanic work on your personal vehicle. But, as we all know, when the task becomes too difficult for your run-of-the-mill tool set, instead of investing in a new 1/2 or 3/4 drive set, the tendency is to get a longer peice of pipe. Why not, craftsman will replace it for free when the handle breaks in half, or the innards crumble to peices and jams up. Worst that can happen to the user is a few weeks with band-aids across sore knucles.

Professional shops usually buy the larger drive sets since they need the heavier duty tools more frequently than the home mechanic. But they too can get into similar situations, and they will either have a 1" drive set around somewhere, or go borrow one from another shop when needed.

The light truck in the driveway can also be modified or used to do some of the task normally asked of an MDT, similar to the longer pipe. If you have to add airbags to keep the frame off of the rear axle (or just to get it leveled) then its the same thing as adding a hernia-bar to a 3/8" drive wrench. You're going to get the bolt off most of the time, but it only takes one stud braking off to find out that once something is set into motion, it becomes more difficult to control it to a stop (best case, dent in the fender, worst case, skinned knuckles). On the highway, the more weight set into motion, the more effort is needed to control it and bring it to a stop....

If you're asking for advice, then do the math yourself. Take out the books on your tractor and trailer, add up the numbers, take the rig to a CAT scale and weigh it and see if it all ads up to SAFETY. Your decision to continue as you are or upgrade to an MDT will be based on technical information, with some "personal safety cushion" numbers that you are comfortable with, not based on assumptions nor advise from folks which won't be there to advise you when things start going south at 65MPH on a 7% down grade....

....Personally, I've had my share of white-knuckle experiences with 1-Ton duallies and switched to a 2-Ton MDT for our last purchase to tow the same trailers and haul the same loads.....and will never go back. It costs a little more than a new 1-Ton (less if you don't add in the cost of an after market towbody), roughly $50K, and was much less than the Flatliner MDT at roughly $70K stock.

As a trained and seasoned engineer, I rely on tolerances and specifications to make decisions every day, so it was only natural to use the same principles when buying a work-truck. Others have other needs, and may feel perfectly comfortable with a narower margin of safety than I have.

Some folks use design specs and educate themselves on the proper use of tools, others like to take things to the edge and feel comfortable there, then there are folks whom don't know, and do not want to know if they are pushing things much too far (its like they say, ignorance is bliss). I realize that many fall somewhere in between, and that there is such a thing as "overthinking" a problem or solution. But when it comes to your family's safety, which of these are you relying on to provide you with advice?

In the spririt of full disclosure:
I do not subscribe to the "hernia-bar" concept to remove stubborn bolts, and own a set of 1/2" drive sockets.

RF
 

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Not really that much more for what you get, I looked at a 5500 with a hauler body in Kansas a month or so and it was just over 52k. Heck a loaded lt3 is almost 50 now. Heck if you want one look in TX, you can find some really god deals on loaded left over 05's.
 

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Another thought to go a bit bigger and keep the cost down, have you checked the used medium duty Pete, KW, Binder, etc market? I have always thought one of the size that drags beer / pop around town would make a great toy hauler.
 

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How about a VW and a nice tent.......?

Ifn it were me, I would be a bit worried about the viability of such an activity (driving all over the country at 8 mpg) in the face of much increased fuel costs. But then you may be a lot richer than I or have a stellar gov't pension waiting to be sucked down.

But to each is own.
 

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How about a VW and a nice tent.......?

Ifn it were me, I would be a bit worried about the viability of such an activity (driving all over the country at 8 mpg) in the face of much increased fuel costs. But then you may be a lot richer than I or have a stellar gov't pension waiting to be sucked down.

But to each is own.
:blahblah: :eek:fftopic:

Paul,

Manny's drinking Liberal Kool-Aid again. Highjacking your thead in Truck Uses with off topic conjectures and personal politics is uncalled for.

Manny,

Paul's questions, if you missed or dismissed it was:

Looking at bigger truck???

I looked at a Topkick 4500 crew cab custom for pulling a fifth wheel.....big bucks. My question what am I getting? Has the same engine and tranny as my 2500HD crew cab short box. It weighs several thousand lbs more yet has more capacity for towing? Is this all suspension and braking?
__________________
Paul
2002 DMAX CrewCab SB 2WD
Now, unless you've sold that signature DMAX are now using a VW and a Tent, restrain yourself from lecturing others with that left-wing hogwash. You realy have no knowledge of Paul's uses for a larger truck, nor is it of your concern. He only stated that he may have a need for it and requested information that compares the two sizes of trucks.

RF
 

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The answer to Pauls question was answered long before you bored us with a lousey tool comparison. You either go for a larger truck because you feel safer towing with one and/or you would otherwise be breaking the law (towing a trailer that overlimits the truck.) You seem to believe that this is some sort of a complex matter, it is not. Medium duty truck; better suspension, brakes, axles, and most importantly weight ratings.

I am simply addressing some of the realistic fringe factors of the situation. \a little 'out of the box' thinking lesson for you. If you dont like it, go pound sand.
 

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Buh Buh BULL S*HT

:muahaha:
 
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