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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. Just recently I put a k&n drop in air filter in my truck. A few weeks after I was driving down a road and decided to put the hammer down and clear it out. About a half mile later the truck started acting like it was chugging with no power. Pulled over and it revved up normal. Drove it again for a couple weeks and when I hooked up my 10k camper I pulled a hill with it and about a mile later same thing but this time it cleared up while driving. On the way back it threw the p0101 code. Checked my MAF sensor and found the sensor to be dirty. So I put a stock filter back on(assuming the k&n filter let oil get on the sensor). Today I hauled my camper on a 100 mile trip and same thing. I was pulling a big hill and after I got to the other side it ran like crap and the light came on. This time it had limp mode. Let it sit for a few minutes and continued another 70 miles with no issues. Any ideas what would cause this to be so Intermittent?

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Welcome to DieselPlace
The issue is your K & N filter install.
Those filters cause havoc on the Air Flow sensor and those oiled filters become very restrictive.
The cotton fibers retain dirt no matter how much you clean them..
The OEM paper filter is your best option for the Duramax
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's what I figured as well but even after I put the stick filter back in and cleaned the MAF sensor it still did it. It just seems odd that it does it going up a hill (or that's just a coincidence) and runs like crap for 30 seconds then is fine after. Truck is bone stock

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If it does it again I would replace the MAF. Use OEM parts.
 

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K & N and turbo diesels don’t play well with each other, also K & N oil will trash out a MAF sensor if oil gets burned on it.
You might consider cleaning your MAP sensor and your MAF again, just don’t touch the terminals when cleaning and use MAF sensor cleaner only.

I‘ve run oiled filters since early 90’s with no issues at this time I have 5 vehicles all have oiled filters.
A cleaned and re-oiled multiple times airfilter will still flow more air than amy new stock airfilter.

In fact I‘m still running my first AFE Proguard 7 filter I bought June 2007 for my LMM.
I now have 3 cleaned and ready to swap one out about once a year every 5-6 k.
I started off with having 2 so I could R & R and clean dry and re-oil at my leisure, AFE sent me another one about 5 years ago = 3.

Having a device like the Edge Insight CS2/CTS2 gauge/monitor to monitor pids like MAF g/s, IAT’s, EGT‘s that’ll tell you the truth if your engine benefits from having a aftermarket flowing airfilter, which
it will. (y)

AFE oil will NOT trash out the MAF if oil happens to get thru and on it.
K & N has 4 layers which allows more airflow thru which causes these codes.
AFE Proguard 7 has 7 layers which not as much air flows thru them less chance of getting the code.

Stock factory MAF calibrations will set a code if the flow is above 40-41 g/s when idling.
Going up a hill you might consider dropping a gear if you can’t maintain at least 1800-2000 rpms
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for the input on that. I found aftermarket sensor to throw on and hopefully get me home. Then I will contact k&n and let them know their filter ruined my sensor

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16 g/s is way low especially with a K&N, to low would also cause a code, you might try to find something else to get results.
K & N will deny that their filter filter would cause any MAF issues.
Aftermarket MAF you’ll have a 50/50 chance that it’ll work correctly, but I know your options was probably limited.

A throttle body gasser MAF usually runs around 5-8 g/s, Dmax turbo diesels will/should run around 30-40 g/s idling in park/neutra.
If you end up keeping the K & N clean and use AFE oil, and lightly oil it, AFE oil won’t ruin the MAF sensor.
I’ve already confirmed this on my own by over oiling my Dmax AFE filter, not on purpose.

I have 4 gas non turbo vehicles with K & N using AFE oil.
2 vehicles with AFE filters Dmax turbo and Polaris Ranger 700.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The k&n filter is going to be sent back and I have a factory filter that I put back in there. Not sure the actual conversion but my scan tool read around 2.5-3 lbs/min at idle when warm.

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2.5-3 lbs/min shows 18-22 g/s google searching.
If your device is working correctly then you have a restriction somewhere.
Start by checking where your airbox sets next to the inside fender, make sure and see if some fool might have covered up the opening where it pulls air thru.
Then check from the airbox going from the filter to the turbo intake including the 4" elbow making sure something didn't get inside blocking airflow.

If you would have done a little searching before you bought even on this forum you would have found K & N on these Dax's are a big mistake.
So many have warned people including me, only to find they'll order one anyway then eventually sooner or later end up with these issues.

Any aftermarket flowing airfilter would have been a better choice, including BANK's even though K & N makes the Banks for Banks but at Banks specs, Banks having more layers of media.
When K & N needs to build up Banks supply they shut down K & N production to switch over to make Banks products, and won't make K & N again until they're all done with the Banks stuff then switch back to making K & N.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I will do that. The only other thing I did was the resonator delete. Other than that I haven't done anything to the engine but I will check everything and see if there is a restriction

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What did you use for the resonator delete ?
That 2" opening is directly into the turbo intake if something got into that opening sucking in that could be the reason for lower than normal g/s reading.
I started off using hardware crap after one member back around 2009 has a issue with the rubber plug sucking the wing nut into the turbo trashing it out, I used the same type plumbers plug but swapped out the wing nut for a steel lock nut double nut.
As soon as he posted his issue, I removed what I had, the rubber had already started disintegrating, I ordered a Billet Resonator Plug.
 

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38-42 (y)
If you got it from a hardware store, hardware plumbing rubber doesn’t hold up very good from the hot engine compartment and oil vapors from the PCV.
I suggest to get something like the Billet Resonator Cap or a rubber cap made of vitron.
Example of hardware rubber cap on a by-passed EGR cooler to keep dirt out it was only on for 6 months, notice the rubber cracking.
 

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PVC as in plastic PVC plumbing cap for plumbing.
What you really should use is a cap for PositiveCrankcaseVentilation
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Put the MAF sensor in and drove 100 miles home with no issues. And got to thinking on the way home it was about 30 miles from the time the truck first had the issue until the check engine came in. And about another 30 from me clearing the light until it acted up on the way. Thanks for the help on this!

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Put the MAF sensor in and drove 100 miles home with no issues. And got to thinking on the way home it was about 30 miles from the time the truck first had the issue until the check engine came in. And about another 30 from me clearing the light until it acted up on the way. Thanks for the help on this!

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Glad your issue is resolved.
Thanks for giving us an update!

(y)
 
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