Diesel Place banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2005 lly 2500hd cc sb. Yesterday I replaced my Fuel pressure regulator and changed it to a lbz fuel pressure regulator along with reflashing my efi live tunes with new tunes for the lbz fpr from calibrated power. To start with it seemed like the truck had an electrical issue this morning, stud #1 fuse was blown under the dash changed that out and truck would not start, no power windows, no interior lights, locks, etc.. Disconnected the batteries let them reset. Driver side battery was only reading around 9v so let that charge and started the truck. So at this point everything seemed back to normal, everything in the truck was working, batteries are reading over 14v. So I decide to go for a ride up and down the road a few times, seems okay until i hit about 45-50, assuming this is where the truck goes into overdrive, and then it starts bucking. If i let off the throttle it smooths out but when applying throttle the bucking comes back, if I lay into it the bucking seems to go away. Anybody have any ideas? Its been a long 24 hours dealing with these issues Id really appreciate some input, thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,512 Posts
You put in GM Part No.: 97384667 REGULATOR why didn't you use GM Part.:97369850 for your truck?
Your FPR is a lot less $ and you wouldn't of had to reflash your EFILive tunes with new tunes for the lbz FPR.

You said stud #1 fuse was blown under the dash changed that out and truck would not start, no power windows, no interior lights, locks, etc.

STUD #1 Auxiliary Power (Single Battery and Diesels Only)/ Dual Battery (TP2) Is under hood.

Evadently you had surging problems and the new FPR didn't solve your problem. There's a procedure for diagnosing this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
sorry i meant to say stud #1 under the hood didn't catch that. But i went with the lbz fpr and upgraded tunes for my efi live spade from calibrated because it supposedly can slightly increase flow. I also have egr deleted, 5" exhaust, 3" downpipe, s&b intake, fass 150 titanium pump.. I believe the stud #1 fuse blew because my buddy acidentally grounded the hot wire from the alternator to the bracket when he took it off, but didn't find any other blown fuses. I've read where a sticking or dead injector can cause this kind of thing so I was thinking more along the line of checking all injector connectors and the ficm to see if there are any shorts or bad connections.
 

·
Gone but not forgotten member
Joined
·
2,582 Posts
Did you call the company that scripted the tune first, he should be your first course of action. Disconnecting the batteries might reset some of the AC doors but will not "reset" the stored memories of the ECM, TCM or BCM, there is another procedure I just cannot find it.

Have your batteries tested via a carbon pile test to see if they are bad, one bad battery can create some problems it just varies as to what it can be, BTW how old are the batteries.?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
When the truck is off both batteries read 12.65v on my battery tester. Went over the ficm wiring and checked injector connectors, also went back over all fuses and all seems fine. Sent a datalog to Paul at duramax tuner he is checking on the data for me, hopefully he can find something. Seems like its surging after 50mph at light/moderate throttle. WOT I cant really feel it any more, starting to wonder if its a bad injector possibly or maybe the fuel pressure relief valve could be causing some symptoms?? Also drained the water separator on my fass 150 and didn't see much of anything. I read on the 6.0 fords a sticking injector can cause almost identical symptoms, supposedly putting lubricating additive can free up the injectors on them. Don't know if that would be any similarity to my problem but maybe I'll run some stanadyne in it.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top