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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I am in the market for a new truck. I really like the duramax,especially lifted. But I have heard extremely negative stuff about lifted chevys. I am considering getting a ford because the solid axle. I am going to be putting a 6 inch lift with 35s on whatever one I get. So what do you guys think about the durability of a lifted duramax. I will never 4 wheel it just street driving. I will need to keep it for over 100k miles. Do you think it will hold up after this many miles. Also what is the best 6 inch lift for the 2500hd . Thanks I really appreciate any feed back.
 

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I don't believe there are any durability problems with lifting a GM as long as you use a quality lift that addresses all the issues. I personally lifted a 1500 Chevy back in '92. It rode like a stock vehicle and held alignment with no problems. Todays lifts are even better.

The diffeence between a GM lift and a straight axle lift is cost and complexity... not durability.
 

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I have a 4" Rancho lift on my truck. I had it put on the first month that I had it. At the time, there really weren't many options for lifting the 2500HD. Fabtech and Procomp didn't have their lifts out (but I have seen a few lately and they look like they are made just as well) yet. All three are probably good choices.


I take the truck off-road quite a bit and I have never had any problems with it. I have over 20,000 miles on it now. Rancho is a well known name and they build a very solid product. I am very happy with the lift on my truck. The truck rides even better than it did stock due to the upgraded shocks (the factory shocks leave a lot to be desired).


As far as lasting 100k miles, I couldn't tell you. I probably won't have the truck that long, but the way the kit is built and installed, I really don't see having problems with it ever.


Anyway, I am very happy with the lift. It makes the truck look a lot better, and it's fun with the girls
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info so far. Your rancho 4 inch sounds like a nice kit but I would do the 6. I noticed you were also from utah. Do you know of any one good to do lifts in utah, I have no clue where to take it for the lift once I get it. Thanks
 

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Ripper I'm not sure what part of Utah you live in but there is a suspension company in Jordan. I can't remember their name off hand but their kit is similar to Rancho in that it is a 4-6" lift depending on how much you crank your torsion bars. Keep in mind the more you crank the worse your CV angles get. If your truck will see mostly pavement thats even more incentive to purchase a Duramax. Hoot was right on when he said, "cost and complexity... not durability." If you are looking for the best 6" kit on the market check out CST(California Super Trucks).

Click here


Most lifts will outlast the lifespan of the truck itself and you should not have any durability issues. The older kits(88-98) had some alignment and quality issues that have given IFS lifts a bad rep but those issues have been corrected on most of the newer kits. As with all lifted trucks there is added stress to the steering components, eventually you will need to replace the pitman/idler arms and maybe the tie-rods but you will have similar concerns with a lifted SFA truck.

For anyone interested aftermarket gears are available for the 11.5" 14-bolt in the following size:
4.10
4.56
4.88
5.13
5.38Edited by: y2kboti
 

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y2kboti, Its good to see what gears are finally out there for the rear.....but what about the front diff? I thought 4.88 is the highest out there? Also, anothing over a 4.56, the ABS is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I live in riverton. How about the rcd kit is it comparible to the cst. Also what is the price difference between the two. Thanks
 

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1BADHD said:
y2kboti, Its good to see what gears are finally out there for the rear.....but what about the front diff? I thought 4.88 is the highest out there? Also, anothing over a 4.56, the ABS is gone.
Depends on ½ ton or ¾ ton. For ¾ ton trucks front gears for the 9.25” IFS are available as low as 5.13 and 5.38. Supposedly the Predator programmer will recalibrate for gears that low but I have yet to see it work. I had issues with the Predator on my ½ ton, ABS/E-brake lights were on and the speedo was off by almost 10mph. Hypertech worked better for me but I also have a ½ ton not a HD…yet! I’ve seen ABS still work with 4.56s but anything lower and people seem to have problems.

ripper said:
I live in riverton. How about the rcd kit is it comparible to the cst. Also what is the price difference between the two. Thanks
I’m in SoCal so I don’t know where Riverton is in relationship to Jordan but you may want to look into it. IMO the CST lift is the best lift on the market(of course that is a subject that can be debated forever) but also comes with a higher price tag. If you would like more details on the lift email me.Edited by: y2kboti
 

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Browsing the CST site, I was looking through their photo gallery... While the trucks look better with a lift, I think this puppy looks even worse...


 

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Discussion Starter #10
y2kboti I tried to email you but my email is not letting me send it. I am really interested in the cst kit. Could you tell me what is better about it than the rcd and the price difference. Also do you know if there is a cst distributor in utah. Thanks I really appreciate it.
 

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The first thing to know is the different types of lifts and the pros and cons of each.

The first type is a subframe/spindle lift(i.e. Rancho, RCD, Fabtech, Pro Comp stage I, Full Traction, Skyjacker, BDS and a few others). These lifts yeild 4-6" of lift depending on your torsion bar settings. The lower control arms(lca) are dropped 6" but the front differential is only lowered 4-5". The upper control arms(uca) are left alone and a replacement spindle(steering knuckle) with a longer stem is used. The steering linkage is not moved and the track width is widened.

The 2nd type of lift is what I call a true lift(CST, Superlift, Pro Comp stage II). These lifts lower both the upper and lower control arms 6" as well as the steering linkage and front differential.

Now the pros and cons of each:

subframe/spindle lift
Pros:
less expensive
no replacement driveshaft required
wider track width=more stability
less bracketry

Cons:
increased CV angles
have to crank torsion bars to get 6"
wider track width=wheels stick out to far
at full droop CVs can break if torsion bars are cranked to much

subframe/true lift
Pros:
full 6" lift minimum
factory like CV angles=less CV problems
factory track width

Cons:
more expensive
longer install time with more brackets

I know there are more pros/cons than I mentioned but that was the "Cliffs Notes" version
I don't want to put anyones lift down so instead of comparing CST vs. RCD I'll concentrait on why CST makes a great kit.

1. One-piece subframe, Rancho is the only other company to offer that.
2. All drop down brackets are tied into subframe, even the UCAs. Nobody else comes close!
3. Heim joint supported steering linkage
4. All brackets are gussetted for extra support
5. All parts powdercoated
6. Many options such as dual shocks, skid plates, rear leaf springs, etc.

The basic CST kit runs $1895 MSRP. Here is a shop in Utah that carries CST:

JACK-IT
1812 W. 3500 STE. 1
SALT LAKE CITY, UT 84119
(801) 974-7960

Better yet you can visit Performance Lifts.com, Jeff is an online retailer who is very familiar with CST products.Edited by: y2kboti
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks I raelly apreciate, One more question what is the advantage of buying the rear springs over just getting the blocks. What is the price differnece. Do you think the springs are worth the money. Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #13
One more thing, I just read from a past forum you said there will be a sweet new lift coming out for the hd. What company is it any info? Thanks Edited by: ripper
 

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Blocks are alot cheaper but anyone that has experienced axle wrap will tell you how much it sucks. The advantage to buying springs is it reduces and sometimes eliminates axle wrap, they look better and IMO ride better espically if you purchase a quality set of springs. Do I think springs are worth the extra money? Without a doubt!

I'm not sure where I posted that. If you can give me the link I'll check it out and let you know what I was talking about.Edited by: y2kboti
 

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I'm interested in aftermarket gears ... I have the OEM locking differential rear end? and running 315 70R17's ... what are my options? How expensive would this be and do both front/rear have to be swapped? Would like to get back to the stock-like ratio.
 

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4.10s or 4.56s would work best with your setup tophog. Do you fell like you need gears? Was the power loss that great going to 315s? What about your Edge Juice didn't that help? If you do replace the gears I would recommend swapping out the factory G80 with an aftermarket LSD or locker. The factory G80 has a tendency to "explode" with 4.56 or lower gears...this may or may not apply to the 11.5" 14-bolt but it sure applies to the 1/2 ton 10-bolts. Gears front and rear run anywhere from $1000-2000 depending on the shop. I paid close to $1400 for 4.56s front and rear on my 10-bolt with an Auburn LSD Pro.
 

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Ripper


I went threw the same thing I ended up going with the 6" RCD I am very happy with it I did alot of research check out my old thread http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=652&KW=rcd+lift I have heard good things about Rancho to but they say RCD shocks are better Bilsteins here is a pic of my ride hope this helps.


Shaydog


 

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y2kboti said:
4.10s or 4.56s would work best with your setup tophog. Do you fell like you need gears? Was the power loss that great going to 315s? What about your Edge Juice didn't that help? If you do replace the gears I would recommend swapping out the factory G80 with an aftermarket LSD or locker. The factory G80 has a tendency to "explode" with 4.56 or lower gears...this may or may not apply to the 11.5" 14-bolt but it sure applies to the 1/2 ton 10-bolts. Gears front and rear run anywhere from $1000-2000 depending on the shop. I paid close to $1400 for 4.56s front and rear on my 10-bolt with an Auburn LSD Pro.

Do I need gears? Probably not ... would I like lower gears? yes. The only negative aspect of my 4" Rancho lift and 35" tires is how the larger tires has modified the Allison shift points which cannot be altered via a tuner on any Duramax ...unlike the gassers. Since I tow quite a bit I do notice the difference when the allison now shifts later then normal. Sure, the juice helps alot but I don't like the fact the truck doesn't shift into 4th or OD until your doing about 55mph, etc.


BTW, very pleased with the 4" rancho and S/S Bilsteen setup ... truck rides car-like and I can still fit into garage (barely) which was my requirement when shopping/researching lifts.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Your truck looks sweet shady dog. What made you choose the rcd kit over the cst. Do your tires rub at all with your setup thanks.
 

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I could use a little more rpm in 6th gear. Comparing 245/75/16 to 315/70/17 our 3.73 drops to an effective 3.30 and 4.10's would be like 3.64. For my use that would be about perfect...but considering the cost and the speedo calibration I'm budgeting for a Quad.
 
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