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Discussion Starter #1
Over the course of the last week I have been slowly instlalling an RCD 6" lift kit. I bought it from west coast offroad shipped to the door for about $1800. This is a little more pricey than some of the other ones out there, but I liked the quality of the kit as well as the use of taller knuckles rather than steering drop brackets. I did want my truck to sit a little higher, but I did not want it obscenly high as I do tow alot with this thing (98% bumper pull).

The main reason was to get the front diff down a few inches and the torsion bar crossmember down a couple of inches,(future project) which this kit did nicley for me.

It also came with 4 new Bilstein 5100 shocks, so even with the lift, the truck rides like a cadillac now.....well, almost :)

Here is a link to the kit I got:

http://racecardynamics.com/products/suspensions/chevy/chevy4wd8OBS/chevy4wd8OBSfull.htm

I did not utilize all of the kit. As I said, I did not want this truck too high. For the rear, the kit came with 3" blocks and an add-a-leaf. I chose to not use the AAL and only used the 3" block. My truck came factory with a 1" block already under the spring pack, so I removed it and installed the new block to net 2" of lift in the rear.

Once the front end was all togather, I measured from the ground to the top of the wheel wells on the rear and using the torsion bar bolts adjusted the front as close to that as I could get. I measured out at 39" on the rear, but I could only go down to 41" in the front while still maintaining thread protrusion on the torsion bar bolts that I was comfortable with. Actually, I am at 41" on the PS front and 41.5" on the DS front to account for me and fuel on that side.

I then went to the shop and had it aligned and I love the way it rides now. Much better handling, mainly due to my old Rancho shocks were toast. I also like the added height and level stance it brings.

I should mention that I am keeping the tires I have because they are less than 20K miles old. They are Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs "E" 265/75/16 and measure out at 31.7" tall X 10.5" wide.

Here is the before picture:



Here are some after pics:






WIP pics:




I could find very little info on this kit before I bought it, so if anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

I also knocked out a few other projects this weekend while I had some free time:

-new front main seal. I changed the harmonic balancer about a month or so ago and did not replace the seal and it has leaked ever since, so if you are ever doing the balancer, take the time and do the seal too.

-New steering shaft. Well, new to me...I pulled it off an '89 Jeep XJ (cherokee). It uses two U-joints rather than the crappy rag joint. Time will tell how this works, but I have read good things about this mod.

Old steering shaft with worn out rag joint:



New shaft installed:



 

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Nice job, looks sweet!
 

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Excellent.. Mine should be starting to get it's lift this week..

Mike
 

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Looks bad to the bone!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I also installed two new OE torsion bars, correct for my application when I did the lift as I am pretty sure my others were sagging.

I now want to look at new rear springs. Has anyone had a custom set built?

I am going to be calling Alcan this week. Any other suggestions?
 

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how is the front track width vs rear track width, got any pics,
do you have 2 piece rear shaft, vibrations, did you use a tapered blog in rear,
i am looking at my truck, the crossmember for the carrier bearing is inside the frame, have to change things around to be able to lower the carrier bearing,,,

anything you would do different,
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can snap some pics. The track width is wider in the front, but it is not much wider than stock, which is still wider than the rear anyway. I'll get some pics tonight for you.

I do have a 2 piece driveshaft, no vibrations at all. I only raised the rear a net of 2" however (removed 1" block and installed 3" block, tapered). Looking at the slip joint in the driveshaft behind the carrier bearing you can see where it is now extended about .75" from where it was stock due to the shiny surface that was hidden.

I'll look again, but I believe that you can leave your carrier bearing crossmember alone and just drop the bearing. I didn't mess with it as my pinion angle is still good.

I wouldn't change anything about how I did it, except maybe do it with some help and not in a sloped driveway next time :)
 

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Kewl that kit is kinda what I'm looking for so dose that kit include the stuff to lower the front diff ? If so about how much did it lower it and did it change the camber any I don't rilly need 6" so would I be able to adjust the torsion bars down if it is to high with out it bottoming out on big bumps? And dose it change the amount of the suspension travel. There was another ?? I hade too but now I can't remember what it was.
Thanks Derek
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Here are some pics looking down the length of the truck:





If I wanted to, I could run some wheel spacers in the back to even it out, but it doesn't bother me.

I put a tape on it and from the outside edge of the fender flare to the outside edge of the tire is right at 3".

I have this adjusted as low as I felt comfortable with, but there is easily another 3" of height if you wanted to raise it more. The front diff was dropped 3" exactly, btw. The kit also fixes the upper A arms and makes the camber/castor adjustment done on the lower A arms. You can kind of see it in one of the pictures. The truck aligned perfectly.
 

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Great job on the lift! Very similar to what I want to do with mine eventually.

I have one question, kinda off topic, but do you have any close-up pics of the mounting setup your mirrors?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great job on the lift! Very similar to what I want to do with mine eventually.

I have one question, kinda off topic, but do you have any close-up pics of the mounting setup your mirrors?
Not sure what you need. They mount in the three factory holes the OE mirror mounted in, plus there is an extra brace that is installed inside the door panel.

Mine are power and lighted, so the power works off the factory power mirror controllers and I used a diagram found on this sight to wire the lights in with the running lights and also blink with the blinkers.

I can take some close up pictures for you if that didn't explain it enough. Let me know.
 

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I have been thinking about a lift for my 3500. However it is a dually. Kit says not for dual rear wheels. Not sure what the difference would be. Maybe rear spring width???? how wide are your rear springs. I would think the parts for the front would be identical given you also have a 3500.
BTW. Nice mirrors, I have the same ones, just put them on this spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The fronts have to be the same between two 3500 trucks dually and SRW, I would think.

FWIW, my rear springs are 2.5" X 64" and are 5 leaf springs with one helper on the bottom. The kit came with an AAL that it says to install in the appropriate place between the other leaves. You are supposed to install them according to length, i.e. the longest leaf is on top and they get progressively shorter, so you put this in, in that pattern.

As I said, I didn't install it.



Here is a shot of the lift block, it is 3" tall and tapered, with the short end facing the front of the truck. I did remove a factory 1" block to install this, so I only net 2" of lift in the rear.




Hope this helps, I am curious to know what your spring measurements are though. I am thinking in the future to do a dually conversion on my truck, but just thinking about it right now. :) I would do a real conversion, not just wheel spacers and fenders, btw.
 

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Finally was able to take a minute and look at what I have for springs. They are 2.5" wide and 64" long bolt to bolt. And 5 main leafs with a helper on the bottom of the stack. Not sure what the difference is, looks like a phone call to the company. image.jpg
 

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Not sure what you need. They mount in the three factory holes the OE mirror mounted in, plus there is an extra brace that is installed inside the door panel.

Mine are power and lighted, so the power works off the factory power mirror controllers and I used a diagram found on this sight to wire the lights in with the running lights and also blink with the blinkers.

I can take some close up pictures for you if that didn't explain it enough. Let me know.
Thanks man, thats what I wanted to know! some have said that with that style of mirrors, you have to modify the mounting holes, so thats mainly what I wanted to know.
 

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i assume that this would be a good kit if some of your suspension components are already worn out?

how much did that kit cost you? and how do you feel the quality is of the kit? any good for some heavy loads in the box or is it more for the eye candy perspective? thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i assume that this would be a good kit if some of your suspension components are already worn out?

how much did that kit cost you? and how do you feel the quality is of the kit? any good for some heavy loads in the box or is it more for the eye candy perspective? thanks!

No, the only wear items this kit replacing is the sway bar end links and shocks. You would still want to do ball joints, control arm bushings, TREs, etc. But, this is a great time to do it when you are installing the kit as everything is torn apart. :p:

I haven't put any significant weight in the box or tounge. I do plan on picking up my TT this weekend and that gives about 1000-1100 lbs tounge weight. I don't thing this kit will help or hurt that, really. If anything the new shocks might help some, IDK.

I did the kit first for the room it made in the engine compartment and torsion bar crossmember area, and second for looks. It cost right around $1800 to my door.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Finally was able to take a minute and look at what I have for springs. They are 2.5" wide and 64" long bolt to bolt. And 5 main leafs with a helper on the bottom of the stack. Not sure what the difference is, looks like a phone call to the company. View attachment 133236

Yea, call and find out, i'm interested as well. They are near San Diego, so don't call too early in the morning :)

I would put money on the reasoning being the add a leaf might derate the rear springs, thus payload.
 
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