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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I have a '99 burb and a '95 Tahoe - I've noticed that the last couple of months there seems to be some 'weeping' of coolant from what appears to be a 'quick connect' aluminum pipe located on the passenger side of the engine bay, near the top. Both vehicles seem to be suffering from this. How do I repair this? Thanks,

Rob :)
 

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I removed the quick connect fitting and screwed a fitting that has a male NPT and a hose barb on the other end. Then cut the aluminum tube. Connect a rubber tube between the two. One problem that you may find, I did, is that the connector that goes into the thermostat housing may break on you. I had to removed the housing and ended up drilling the fitting out and retapping the hole. I've read that its pretty common for these to leak.
 

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these things are nitorius for leaking on all gm engines, even the brand new ones will leak soon enough, i like chris611's idea i will try that when mine starts to leak again
 

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TurboTahoe;1615584; said:
Hi guys,

I have a '99 burb and a '95 Tahoe - I've noticed that the last couple of months there seems to be some 'weeping' of coolant from what appears to be a 'quick connect' aluminum pipe located on the passenger side of the engine bay, near the top. Both vehicles seem to be suffering from this. How do I repair this? Thanks,

Rob :)
OEM part lasted 12 years, right? Replace it with another OEM part and you might get another 12.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the suggestions guys. My local dealer has them in stock "common failure, says he" for $11.68 each. It appears they are the same for both vehicles. That's inexpensive enough that I'll probably just put new quick-connects in, unless someone has an extremely allergic reaction. I thank you guys for your input - I always value it.

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 

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they didn't have them at the dealership when mine gave out. I went to the hardware store and bought a brass hose barbs and then I went to napa for the hose. I think the brass hose barb will outlast the truck. Probably the same price as going to the dealer.
 

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SnowDrift;1618114; said:
OEM part lasted 12 years, right? Replace it with another OEM part and you might get another 12.
My only concern though when I swapped mine for a barb fitting was looking at the overall design, little plastic clips, o-rings, and on the hi-way fully loaded and it letting go, and no way to fix it unless carrying a spare.

Least case loose some coolant, worst case loose engine

With the barb fitting and rubber hose, I can replace the bad hose, or if in a really bad bind, duct tape to the rescue, temp patch on the hose so I can limp to somewhere and get a hose.
 

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Found it at NAPA today. P/N: 730-4943. Is there a tool to open the quick (dis)connect? They seem to not have it in stock.
 

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The only 'tool' you need is an opposable thumb....

Squeeze the tabs and pull after you of course have taken out the nuts that hold the hose onto the intake...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just picked up one from the dealer. I will take a couple of photos and post here so that you can see how they are made. I agree - it is surprising that they last as long as they do, given the seemingly minimal construction.

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 

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TurboTahoe, I also want to hear your experience in how you unscrew it from the crossover? Thanks.
 

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Any time I do an intake gasket I always replace the aluminunm quick connect with a steel heater hose nipple. If yours is leaking good luck getting it out without breaking it. When you do break it (notice I didn't say if) get a 1/2 inch pipe thread tap and clean the threads out. Good Luck.
 

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DnHolland, thanks for the advice. I will be prepared.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, now you guys are freaking me out! :) Are you saying that attempting to unscrew the quick connect will usually result in it breaking off in the housing? How do you guys remove it then?

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 

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When it breaks, just chip out the remains with a small pick or use a 1/2 NPT tap.....
 

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I had mine break off in the housing. I put a small welding tip on my flame wrench and carefully gave the broken fitting a little heat. When it cooled, I gently tapped in a large e-z out and it backed out no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK, now I'm thinking the a steel heater hose nipple would be a better idea. Where does one get such a thing? NAPA? If so, does anyone have an appropriate part number?

Thank you so much,

Rob :)
 

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The proper replacement part for this is GM Part# 15963984 or AC Delco Part# 15-30569. This is a steel barbed fitting with a machined in orifice to restrict the flow to what it would be with the quick connect fitting. My internet research says that this is the fitting that GM used before going to the quick connect fitting.

My old quick connect fitting came right out without breaking. I used a deep well socket over the end of the quick connect after disconnecting the hose. If you try to take it out with an open end wrench, you may egg the fitting and would be more likely to break it off.
 

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TurboTahoe;1631180; said:
OK, now I'm thinking the a steel heater hose nipple would be a better idea. Where does one get such a thing? NAPA? If so, does anyone have an appropriate part number?

Thank you so much,

Rob :)
Don't get too worked up about it. I replaced mine at about 145,000 miles and it came right out. If it breaks off, it can easily be taken out, since it's hollow and not like a solid bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thank you guys for the encouragement. I have now picked up two of the factory quick connects. In terms of disconnecting them do you guys have any hints? Is it simply a matter of pinching the plastic tabs and pulling the pipe out of the quick connect?

It looks like a 1 1/16" socket should fit. I'll give it a whirl.

Should I bother to drain the system, since this is right at the top of the engine?

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 
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