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I have a 06 lbz with 12,000 miles and would like to do exhaust and intake without having codes come up. The truck is all stock would just like some advise so i buy the right parts the first time. Not planning on a chip. Thanks Russ:)
 

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Im having my 07 done this friday with 4'' exhaust.It shouldnt be a problem with any codes coming up .The guy that is doing mine has done 4 07 classics lbz motors and no codes at all.The only difference imgoing to a stainless exhaust and a 5" tip.
 

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When mine was just a cat back & intake, I had no codes. When the cat went, I put the EGR blocker & fingerstick on it. It was inexpensive, and not bad to install. It keeps soot out of the engine with no codes.
 

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I istalled the MBRP 5" turbo back never throw any codes, I just installed the finger and blocker I was blowing the egr open on higher boost loads.
 

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dakotaoutlaw;1573538; said:
I have a 06 lbz with 12,000 miles and would like to do exhaust and intake without having codes come up. The truck is all stock would just like some advise so i buy the right parts the first time. Not planning on a chip. Thanks Russ:)
Don't mean to pry or hijack, but why? Why spend $400? $500? $600? on exhaust/intake for a FEW ponies and FEW egt drop? Why not spend money where you actually get bang for the buck? Never understood this. Just my $0.02:)
 

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superboy95;1574026; said:
Don't mean to pry or hijack, but why? Why spend $400? $500? $600? on exhaust/intake for a FEW ponies and FEW egt drop? Why not spend money where you actually get bang for the buck? Never understood this. Just my $0.02:)
And what would be the best bang for the buck?
 

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maxy;1573598; said:
Im having my 07 done this friday with 4'' exhaust.It shouldnt be a problem with any codes coming up .The guy that is doing mine has done 4 07 classics lbz motors and no codes at all.The only difference imgoing to a stainless exhaust and a 5" tip.
Give it time :D Mine took about a month to throw a EGR code

superboy95;1574026; said:
Don't mean to pry or hijack, but why? Why spend $400? $500? $600? on exhaust/intake for a FEW ponies and FEW egt drop? Why not spend money where you actually get bang for the buck? Never understood this. Just my $0.02:)
Lets ask you this, why keep a stock exhaust when your EGT's are probably 1600+ degrees with Edge. Aluminum melts at 1700* and have you seen what the heads are on the duramax? And when you go from a stock 3 1/2 inch exhaust to a 4" it flows 99.8% better. :rolleyes:

Its just being smart. :)
 

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Finger,EGR Block,PPE,Then MBRP,After a week or two a new tranny:HiHi: . Mine is still holding but not for long.
 

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i am new to the diesel scene but what does the egr blocker and finger do and how is it benficial?
 

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bcserl;1574079; said:
And what would be the best bang for the buck?
Do the math for the mods you are considering. $/hp. A chip/box/power adder will always win. And I'm not even talking about the extreme settings.

Personally I bought a used EZ for $200. Works out to $3 per hp for me.:)

Add up the cost of intake/exhaust and divide it by the 10-15 hp you will gain.
 

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SleeperTRK;1574083; said:
Lets ask you this, why keep a stock exhaust when your EGT's are probably 1600+ degrees with Edge. Aluminum melts at 1700* and have you seen what the heads are on the duramax? And when you go from a stock 3 1/2 inch exhaust to a 4" it flows 99.8% better. :rolleyes:

Its just being smart. :)
1600+ degrees!!!??? WTF? How long do you think ANYTHING in the motor would last at 1600+*? I know aluminum melts at MUCH lower than 1700* but what exactly does that have to do with this? Do you think maybe the TURBO would be the thing you'd better be ready to replace if you run 1600+* EGT?;)

99.8% better? Interesting also. Do you happen to have any data to back that up?

I have no problem with exhaust upgrades for lowering EGT. If I towed heavy for long distances I would be on that wagon also. Just surprises me that I see so many guys on here buy a new D-Max and the first thing they want to do for performance is replace the intake/exhaust - and my question still is: why? Remember the original post said intake also. About 30 minutes searching on here will show you that the stock filter setup will flow as good or better than any aftermarket - so again: why?

But hey - it's your truck. If you're happy with it, then all's good.:)
 

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research

Regarding intakes, I think it would be worth while for you to read the "AFTER MARKET INAKES AND FILTERS- DO THEY WORK " sticky in the "FUEL AIR AND EXHAUST FORUM"
 

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2SMOKER;1575726; said:
Regarding intakes, I think it would be worth while for you to read the "AFTER MARKET INAKES AND FILTERS- DO THEY WORK " sticky in the "FUEL AIR AND EXHAUST FORUM"
Who are you referring to?
 

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Anybody thinking of spending money to upgrade their trucks....if you are for or against air intakes it matters not...I just found it interesting. I too am new to diesels and am interested in making this truck a little different than every other one parked next to mine but it's a matter of info overload for me anyway, and it looks like there was a lot of time and effort put into the testing report.

HappyDmaxing
 

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2SMOKER;1575929; said:
Anybody thinking of spending money to upgrade their trucks....if you are for or against air intakes it matters not...I just found it interesting. I too am new to diesels and am interested in making this truck a little different than every other one parked next to mine but it's a matter of info overload for me anyway, and it looks like there was a lot of time and effort put into the testing report.

HappyDmaxing

I have an 06 LBZ with a Magnaflow 4" downpipe back. I did not install a blocker plate or finger stick. I have had it on there for about 10K without a codes. I dropped my cat off at the Humane Society. I do not plan a tuner or intake.
 

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superboy95;1575700; said:
1600+ degrees!!!??? WTF? How long do you think ANYTHING in the motor would last at 1600+*? I know aluminum melts at MUCH lower than 1700* but what exactly does that have to do with this? Do you think maybe the TURBO would be the thing you'd better be ready to replace if you run 1600+* EGT?;)

99.8% better? Interesting also. Do you happen to have any data to back that up?

I have no problem with exhaust upgrades for lowering EGT. If I towed heavy for long distances I would be on that wagon also. Just surprises me that I see so many guys on here buy a new D-Max and the first thing they want to do for performance is replace the intake/exhaust - and my question still is: why? Remember the original post said intake also. About 30 minutes searching on here will show you that the stock filter setup will flow as good or better than any aftermarket - so again: why?

But hey - it's your truck. If you're happy with it, then all's good.:)
Do you have any clue what your EGT's are when you run edge? the results would suprise you expecially on a LLY :rolleyes: and judging by your "WTF??????" comment id say you think that 1600* doesnt happen to often..My old LB7 coud hit 2200* EASY!

Melting point for aluminum is 1220* BUT thats for a very low grade. There are over 50,000 types and most of which melt in the ball park of 1700-1900*. And GM wouldnt use a cheap a$$ grade that melts at 1200* ;)

Look up flow rates my friend..youll be VERY supprised :D
 

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Hey Russ, I have a Volant intake, and MBRP 4" duals with the cat delete pipe. I've heard the intake for an LBZ is a waste of $. It's already on so it will stay. Thanks, John
 

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dakotaoutlaw - I highly recomend you do two things:

1. A lot of research about the products you plan to buy & install
2. Have a candid conversation with the dealer where you plan to have your warranty work done.

From a research standpoint, this site is a wonderful cache of information. As an example I have noticed that on the 2006's, many who have installed turbo back systems get low egr flow related codes. The fix is a finger stick and egr plate which means more time and money. If you live in a place like CO or CA with extensive pollution controls this can be a real pain. By all accounts a cat back system will save you the potential for this headache (with only a slight reduction in performance ehancement).
It is clear that dealer warranty response to modified trucks is all over the map (even if we are protected by law). Your dealer will be lienient in one way and take a hard line in another. For example my dealer is not as worried about tire size but they have told me that they are not fond of intake systems and frequently make customers take the entire system off before they will perform any warranty work. They do accept high flow filters in the stock air box.
One of the other strategies that I have employed is having the dealer install anything that could be contested later or that might concern you. As an example: I had the dealer install my lift and later the larger wheels/tires. This aliviates any claims that the larger wheels/tires are causing any problems with the tranny. My dealer wasn't too concerned about the issue but I felt more comfortable having them assume the risk. As it happens this approach worked out for me. This week I had a problem (common in some 2006's) where blowing snow and wind caused the engine to shut down. The tech started down the path "that the lift is probably causing the problem....", until I informed him that his dealership installed the lift. Ended that part of the conversation immediately! He then informed me that GM is working on a real solution to the problem.
Just my 2 cents.
 
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