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Great job on the conversion! I suggest you keep that rear end from the truck for when you tear up your Quadrasteer rear end like I did.... :)
 

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Great READ...incredibly impressive build..!!

Cheers,

Theo
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
I've now driven a little over 5k miles since the swap. It's been too cold out to clean up loose ends, but it's generally good to go. Once it gets warmer out I'll continue to work on the checklist items. But, daily driving it as well for now. Running/driving great.

New license plate bracket:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Had to install new idler pulleys and tensioner. They were making all kinds of racket...
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr
 

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@Kriesel,
Did anything else have to be done to the body computer modules other than the theft lock relearn on the ECU?
I assume the ECU VIN and BCM VIN are each retaining their respective vehicles VIN's?
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
I didn't do anything to the BCM other than the field relearn. With you being in California, I'm not sure what you would legally need to accomplish. Maybe move out of the state?? haha! I don't have EFI live, and so I can't be sure if the vin numbers are the same or if the ECM and BCM currently have different vins now.

In other news, the truck is currently at about 9000 miles since the swap, going to change oil this week for the first time!
 

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Just to be clear... The ECM/PCM got the relearn process. Yes the ECM/PCM will have the correct VIN of the Suburban if the VATS (vehicle anti theft system) is operative. The BCM and the ECM/PCM have to verify that the VINs are the same before the engine can run.
The BCM normally remains original as it is the personality of the truck. And cannot be reprogrammed with EFI
 
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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Figured it's warmed up enough to get my A/C working finally. I've had the system closed up and capped off until now, and left the pump unplugged.

Been ok without it, but this last weekend it was like 100°, and in a few days we're taking a family trip, and so I didn't want to drive 6 hours with the wife and kids with all the windows open...

So, I had called around to a few places that do welding. A good friend could do it, but I haven't had time to drive the few hours to his house. A local shop (low and behold with a business name of the metal doctor) declined to weld it for me, and a couple other local shops also declined to attempt to weld it. So, for the meantime I decided to use compression fittings. I saw someone else did it with success. I was concerned over long term corrosion, and so looked into what metal I would need that wouldn't corrode. Aluminum fittings would be nice, but what I found is that they are hard to come by in this large of a compression fitting. I thought stainless steel would be the obvious solution, but found this document showing the corrosion characteristics of various metals:
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Corrosion.pdf

I found these zinc-plated fitting at McMaster-Carr, ordered them up, and at my door in like a day. I love that place...

Material Zinc-Plated Steel
Maximum Pressure 2,000 psi @ 72° F
Temperature Range -65° to 400° F

52215k543l by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

52215k547l by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I used one 1/2" fitting, and two 3/4" fittings. I cut the aluminum Y out of the suburban's 3/4" line, and spliced it into the duramax line above the engine. I cut the longer end of the 1/2" aluminum line at the condensor from the duramax and spliced that into the suburban's line that has a Y in it as well. That probably sounds confusing, so here's the pictures I took.

One of the fittings that came in the mail:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Here's me holding the duramax 1/2" line that I cut the end off on the radiator end:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The line in place with the duramax end coupled to the suburban line. You can see the compression coupler hiding a few inches behind the core support:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

A view of the 1/2" compression fitting just behind the core support:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The Y spliced into the duramax line. I also used the duramax dryer, with the fitting angled away from the fuel filter:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I charged it up and filled with a little pag oil last night, and seems to be good to go. The compression fittings are more than capable of the pressure, so that wasn't a concern. I just don't want them to corrode long term. We'll see how it goes. In the meantime, I have operational air conditioning, just in time for a family trip.
 
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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Finally put a duramax logo on the rear tailgate, had some on the side doors, but thought the one on the tailgate was missing:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Had a flat the other day, just a screw in the tire. Fixed that up, but had to mount a snow tire for a day:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Had a front bumper cover from a 2002 2500HD truck ordered a while back. Just had a local shop paint it white for about $40, and installed it the other day. Looks great! The grille is on order, and I'll install that when it arrives to fill the gap at the bottom.

Also got new license plates in the mail recently. I could only use 7 characters, so I went with LBZBURB instead of DRABURB or DURABRB:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr
 
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Discussion Starter #29
With some help from 4WS+4WD over on denalitrucks.com (I use that forum for the quadrasteer knowledge available), I recently replaced the bump stops on the front of the suburban. I wasn't aware at how much of an effect they have with the suspension, but holy cow what a difference with them replaced. They were non-existent and with the added weight of the duramax it rode like an old Caddilac with bad shocks... Much better now!

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr
 

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Just did the same on mine. Even without the Duramax it is a huge difference.
 

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awesome job:thumb::thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Wanted to copy/paste to my build thread about an issue I also posted here:
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/140-duramax-third-generation-2006-2007-5-lbz-lly/969638-potential-wiring-issues.html

The last few days I've been having some issues with surging, stumbling, lots of engine vibrations, etc... Wanted to document what I've found, and maybe get some pointers along the way.

Vehicle is a 2003 suburban, with a 2006 lbz swap. I've driven the truck without fail for about 25k miles since the swap.

In the past couple weeks I've had the following engine codes at different times:
P0336 - crank sensor, have seen this code twice in two days, I lose RPM signal on the dash when hitting large bumps on the road.
P0005 - fuel shutoff valve circuit open, popped up once, can't replicate
P0001 - fuel volume regulator circuit open, popped up once, can't replicate
P0606 - ECM fault, popped up once, can't replicate
P0650 - The constant fault I have since the swap (which means I can't see the engine light on the dash, I've assumed this is a wire missing since the engine swap. I just check the light with the scangauge all the time at the moment)

I changed the fuel filter just the other day. It seemed like the engine shaking like crazy was in line with the overnight temps starting to get cold here, and so I thought that maybe the filter was struggling with cold temps. It didn't really seem to change the situation. In my head I think I wanted to think that this was helping, but honestly I don't think it made any difference. After changing the filter, it still seemed to shake and such.

With the fuel related engine codes, both only happening once, I was thinking maybe my fuel pressure regulator is bad.

In the last two days with the crank sensor code, now I'm concerned with the crank sensor or the reluctor wheel coming loose. Really hoping the reluctor wheel isn't the issue, but wouldn't be the end of the world to replace.

I've done the wire harness wiggle test with the engine running. I've shaken wires at the crank sensor, no change in idle. I've shaken the large connectors on top of the engine, no change. I've checked various locations for wire rub, haven't found anything jumping out at me. Finally, I moved the wires late last night at the ecm plug, and the engine changes rpm by moving the wires that go into the ecm. So, either the wires are rubbing, or the connector is loose (i'll double check this tonight).

Another thing I found was this:
https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/general-discussion/778753-p0336-chugging-2.html#post9769513

And I have the same clip missing on that plug. So I'll have to find that. But I didn't seem to have any issues when shaking the wiring harness at that connection.

The only place I've found that effects the engine when I shake the harness is right at the ECM.

For about a week I've had rough running engine with throttle, but not on deceleration. For the last couple days I've had issues with loss of tach signal for a blip of a second when hitting bumps.

I'll fiddle with it some more tonight and see what I can find. It seemed to drive a little better today after moving wires around for a while last night. But I still lost tach signal a couple times, and got P0336 to come back, and my cruise control didn't work half way to work today. Sorry if I was kinda all over the place here...
Last Friday I dug into the issue. Spent my night unplugging the majority of the engine harness, looking for wire rub and such.

Knowing the MIL codes that I was getting, I was focusing on the following circuits (highlighted in green):
Capture by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Capture1 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Capture2 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Capture3 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I took everything apart. I unwound some of the tape and such from suspect areas. I didn't find anything related to the ciruits I was having issues with. I ended up finding two wires that were seemingly unrelated, and fixed them and wrapped them back up. So, I didn't find any obvious signs of wire rub.

In the ECM plugs, they were pretty dirty, and so I cleaned those up:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I was a little stumped, and was thinking that inside the plug for the ECM that I would find some bad wires on the circuits that I had previously highlighted. I put all the plugs back together, tied things back up, made sure some areas wouldn't rub in the future.

Fired it up, seemed ok Friday night at midnight. Saturday, no issues. Since then, still no issues. I've now driven 400 miles or so with no issues.

So, I'm guessing at this point that I had a loose connector, and I'm thinking the C1 plug on the ECM was a touch loose, causing the issues I had. No wire rub, but loose connectors is my conclusion. On to bigger and better things.
While messing around with this wiring issue, I also finally took some time to look at the MIL light issue I was having.

Last winter, when I first did the build, I did this:
On the C100 plug in the suburban, I removed these two wires to make room for the twisted pair communication wires:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr
Come to find out, the brown/white wire I removed on the Suburban side of the C100 plug really still needed to be there, but moved to line up with the Duramax side of the C100 plug.
Capture5 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Upon re-install, and plugging the batteries in, I now have an MIL indicator.

The pink wire that I now still have disconnected at the C100 plug looks to be the Damping Lift/Drive signal wire. Not sure where to connect that to, so it will stay disconnected for the time being... I can't find the circuit 1101 for this on the duramax wiring diagrams. On the suburban it looks like it went to the C3 plug, but the duramax wiring doesn't show this circuit anywhere that I can see. I'll keep digging.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I finally finished the grille. Used a 2002 HD grille, had the center piece painted, and darker headlights to even it out.
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr
 
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That looks great!!
 

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The pink wire that I now still have disconnected at the C100 plug looks to be the Damping Lift/Drive signal wire. Not sure where to connect that to, so it will stay disconnected for the time being... I can't find the circuit 1101 for this on the duramax wiring diagrams. On the suburban it looks like it went to the C3 plug, but the duramax wiring doesn't show this circuit anywhere that I can see. I'll keep digging.
I have a 2003 Quadrasteer with a LB7 swap. On the LB7, the Damping Lift/Dive Signal exists on the ECU, so I just connected them up. It looks like it only exists on the LB7 though, as even the LLY removed that signal. So I am pretty sure your LBZ doesn't have that.

From what I can infer, the signal is used by the ECU to tell the ride control module to expect a lift/dive event, such as a hard acceleration or grade braking. This would make the suspension react a bit quicker to a throttle stab or a downshift, but realistically the suspension module will figure it out from the wheel position sensors, just not preemptively. I wouldn't worry too much doing anything with that particular wire, especially if you have been happy with how it rides.

I like the 2001 HD front end on the Suburban. Thanks for sharing that photo. I have been contemplating doing that on mine, and I think I will after seeing yours. Right now I have the stock Suburban front end with a 2" bumper lift, so I don't have the tow hooks anymore. Looks really stealth/stock, but so does yours, and you have working tow hooks. A lot of people do the 2003+ HD truck front end, but IMO that doesn't look good on a Suburban.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I have a 2003 Quadrasteer with a LB7 swap. On the LB7, the Damping Lift/Dive Signal exists on the ECU, so I just connected them up. It looks like it only exists on the LB7 though, as even the LLY removed that signal. So I am pretty sure your LBZ doesn't have that.

From what I can infer, the signal is used by the ECU to tell the ride control module to expect a lift/dive event, such as a hard acceleration or grade braking. This would make the suspension react a bit quicker to a throttle stab or a downshift, but realistically the suspension module will figure it out from the wheel position sensors, just not preemptively. I wouldn't worry too much doing anything with that particular wire, especially if you have been happy with how it rides.

I like the 2001 HD front end on the Suburban. Thanks for sharing that photo. I have been contemplating doing that on mine, and I think I will after seeing yours. Right now I have the stock Suburban front end with a 2" bumper lift, so I don't have the tow hooks anymore. Looks really stealth/stock, but so does yours, and you have working tow hooks. A lot of people do the 2003+ HD truck front end, but IMO that doesn't look good on a Suburban.
Oh nice! I should have looked at wiring for an LB7 I guess, never thought to look into that engine for the wiring.

After replacing the bump stops, the ride has been just fine. I think I will put new shocks on the front end, and put resistors in the wiring for the shock so I can run something other than the autoride style shocks. But, it rides good now as well.

I like the front end too. I contemplated the 2003+ as well, but I'm happy with how this turned out.
 

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So just to clarify, the diesel coolers bolted into the suburban support even though the support is shorter? If I have a good diesel support then I don't have to put the spacers on the bottom correct?
 

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So just to clarify, the diesel coolers bolted into the suburban support even though the support is shorter? If I have a good diesel support then I don't have to put the spacers on the bottom correct?
The Suburban core support can be used for a LB7. I believe you have to use the truck core support for a LBZ and newer. And in all cases, the top aluminum bar needs to be from the truck, or the intercooler won't fit right.

You need the 2" spacers regardless of which core support is used. On the trucks, they have RPO code "HVY" which is a 2" body lift. This is done by welding all the body mounts 2" higher on the frame. So you can either cut the mounts off the frame and re-weld them 2" higher, or just use a 2" spacer. Most people use a spacer.

If you don't perform the body lift one way or another, the engine will still fit (barely) and clear the hood (barely). I tried to do my Suburban that way, but the Allison transmission was just touching the transmission tunnel, and none of the hoses lined up. So you would have to get custom intercooler tubes and coolant lines. But the real killer is the fan shroud no longer fits, which I never was able to find a good solution to. Ended up just doing the tapered 2" lift (2" at the front, 0" at the back).
 
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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
I'm using the LBZ diesel core support, with LBZ diesel cooling package, but the suburban wire harness for the dual air bag sensors.

I've read that the allison fits pretty snug in the suburban transmission tunnel, so it helps to have some clearance there. I've looked at a couple trucks, and without putting a tape measure on anything, it looks like the 3/4 and 1-ton trucks with a duramax have the core support mounts welded in a location 2" different than the suburban, similar to what Dave said.

Currently I have a 2" lift across the entire length of the suburban, more for the ease of just getting the project done when I built it. I plan to change to the tapered lift sometime this summer.
 

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You have my admiration, I’ve been a heavy equipment mechanic for 35 yrs and I’m not sure I would have tackled this project, it looks like it turned out well.
 
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