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Discussion Starter #1
OK,

Don`t get all in a hurry,today i put the ppe code blocker on my brothers truck.

The exhaust will go on Friday a.m.
The exh. is an MBRP 4" cat delete,muffler delete,so i should hopefully have some feedback on an `06 lbz next week.

I`ve got my fingers crossed here,i`m not looking to have any problems,but you never know.

I followed the directions(kinda)that came with it.

I got chicken on soldering(i suck at it,hands TOO big for tight places)so i cut the yellow wire and used butt splices,the ones with the heat shrink ends with the glue in them.Then i shaved the pink wire and wrapped the hot wire around it and taped it tight(temporary) to see if it works.
I also shaved and wrapped the egr wire(temporary)and used an engine ground for the black wire.

If this works i`ll go back and make things more permanant but until it proves itself i`m not ready to cut anymore wires.

I cycled the truck 4 times no,ses light,but have not driven it yet and it still has the STOCK exhaust on it.:ro)
 

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FYI, Butt splices are open to the envirment and all the elements and will corrode in time and problems begin. Try this, strip your wires, make sure they are clean and dry, twist them togeather, take your hot iron and dip it in your flux, touch some solder on the tip, heat hour splice and watch the solder flow. If you solder to a tab, again clean connection, dip iron, heat up the tap until solder melts, (tining), do the same to the wire, then reheat the tab until the solder melts, place wire on tab and the whole connection will melt togeather and you will have a good splice that will last, get some heat shrink at your local parts store to cover it and protect the splice. Good Luck
 

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Just remember to put the shrink wrap over the wire before you solder or else you might be saying some other things. Push the shrink wrap down the wire away from the heat. Slide it back over when done and heat it. This depends on how you solder your wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I follow what your saying about the butt splices being open to the elements,but the ones i used have the heat shrink ends on the splice and they also have glue in the heatshrink to seal out the elements.

Cut, splice, crimp, heat the ends,glued and sealed,i thought this would run a close second to soldering.:ro)
 

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Thanks Leadfoot, I forgot to mention you have to put the sleeve on prior to soldering, btdt!Enviremental Splices Are Very Nice, They Keep Out What You Don't Want In. Good Choice!
 

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The crimp and seal connectors you are talking about are GMs approved method of wiring repair. If done correctly they work pretty well. Just be sure you dont cut the outer shrinkwrap when crimping! They are what is supplied with most replacment pigtails from GM. If using the solder and heat shrink method make sure you use good quality heat shrink. The best stuff I have found was actually made by OMC for marine applications

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK it`s Friday and i just got home from my friends muffler shop.

We started the truck to get it off the lift(1)then i started it to get home(2)then at the atm(3)and again at my buddied taco restraunt(4)then i came home to report my findings here to you,my helpful friends at The Diesel Place.

NO CODES...........with the ppe code blocker,yet.
IIRC....it takes 2 cycles to set cel on the dash????
And i`m of the impression that,atleast on this truck,it`s a winner.

I will report back tomorrow if there are any changes,sudden drastic failures and the like.

Your results may very.:rockit:
 

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I think it might take more than just regular driving to set one. I say that because in another thread a guy put the fingerstick on and it was all good tell he towed a trailer, and then it threw a code
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think it might take more than just regular driving to set one. I say that because in another thread a guy put the fingerstick on and it was all good tell he towed a trailer, and then it threw a code
Dieselman75

I think your correct,but i have no intention of using this truck for a tow vehicle,so i think i might escape that sceneario.

My other rig is a dually,this one is a play toy,huntin`,racin`,generally fooling around,you know.:ro)

P.S. this is the ppe Not the fingerstick..........Diffrent product but most likely the same inside and the same result.
 

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Dieselman75
P.S. this is the ppe Not the fingerstick..........Diffrent product but most likely the same inside and the same result.
I have a 2006 LLY (same PCM as LBZ), and, it doesn't work with the Finger Stick. P0401's every day. So, I installed the PPE code blocker and it works perfectly. No codes, no nothing. It's been two weeks. I strongly recommend you solder everything though. Make sure you prep shrink tube on the wire before you start soldering. Then tape it all up anyhow.

I have another thread somewhere else running on this but thought I'd throw this down for an FYI.

I wish I could "reverse engineer" the PPE but it's completely encased in epoxy (I would have done the same thing). PPE code blocker=success. YEA.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sunday,

Went for a drive yesterday,cycled the ign. 5 times,no codes yet.
I`m pretty happy so far.
Your results may vary.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You get them at pacific p and theyre expensive.-----$160.
 

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Greetings friends. I have been waiting for a fingerstick proven for a 2006 LLY for egr. Is there an alternative to ppe? I have a piece of stainless for the blockoff but I need to know if I can prevent limp even with cel on. I will use an egr cooler tube gasket for the template of the blockoff. Regards.
 
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