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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well Gentlemen, I’m getting to the point where it might be time to ditch this motor home. I should say put this motor home in a ditch. My last disaster was letting a lithium shop light fall into the radiator obliterating the cooling fan, idler pulley and beating up the main pulley. I found a fan that would fit the shroud, but don’t know what type of CFM it’s moving. I couldn’t find a replacement anywhere in the US.
Yesterday I took it out for a test drive and fuel, everything was going fine. About 25 miles later it just cut out. I mean it just died. I coasted into a grocery store parking lot and checked the battery connection. I thought I might not have tightened the nut that holds the battery cables on. Everything was tight as far as connections are concerned. I walked around it and got in and turned the key on, power was there and everything looked good, it started right up and got me to the big box store for fuel. The next 20 miles was uneventful, then it cut out again on the highway doing about 55 (the speed limit). This time it was just momentary. It happened 2-3 times in quick succession. It turned back on and kept running. This stutter happened 2 more times before I got home. I again checked battery and alternator connections without finding anything wrong. I noticed that the fuel pump pressure from the lift pump had gone to zero, and that my coolant temp. sensor had died.
I checked the CTS by grounding out the 1 lead and the coolant temp gauge pegged, so wire good. I bought a new sensor, but temp now is just barely registering on cool. Need to check the resistance on the unit, and probably remove all the Teflon tape, so that it will have a good ground. The cutouts occurred a couple more times while on this last test drive. The electrics quit, and the engine stopped. What was unusual was when this happened I noticed the RPM and speedometer were stuck on the last indications (ex. Showing 50 mph with 2200 RPM showing and engine off). The dash became very dim all gages fuel press, oil press, pyrometer, boost, coolant temp. all died. There was some glow of the dash warning lights, however they were very dim, like a low voltage situation. After waiting a few minutes, I’d turn the key on and all the electrics seemed fine and the engine would start right up, and off we’d go again. At first I thought it might be the key switch itself, but jiggling it didn’t have any discernable effect.
I don’t know if part of the electrical system may be overheating and disconnecting. I am hoping one of you gents will give some ideas on how to chase this down. Maybe a relay?
To give you some information on the vehicle, it is a 1994 Georgie Boy motor home on a Spartan EC2200 chassis. The drive line is a 1993 6.5L TD, DB2 manual fuel injection pump, and a 4L80E transmission. It is a pusher.
Thanks again for any guidance on this matter 😕
 

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I would go back through all of the grounds and inspect every inch of the engine harness looking for any rubbed through wire insulation, corrosion, broken wire, etc..
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well Gentlemen, I’m getting to the point where it might be time to ditch this motor home. I should say put this motor home in a ditch. My last disaster was letting a lithium shop light fall into the radiator obliterating the cooling fan, idler pulley and beating up the main pulley. I found a fan that would fit the shroud, but don’t know what type of CFM it’s moving. I couldn’t find a replacement anywhere in the US.
Yesterday I took it out for a test drive and fuel, everything was going fine. About 25 miles later it just cut out. I mean it just died. I coasted into a grocery store parking lot and checked the battery connection. I thought I might not have tightened the nut that holds the battery cables on. Everything was tight as far as connections are concerned. I walked around it and got in and turned the key on, power was there and everything looked good, it started right up and got me to the big box store for fuel. The next 20 miles was uneventful, then it cut out again on the highway doing about 55 (the speed limit). This time it was just momentary. It happened 2-3 times in quick succession. It turned back on and kept running. This stutter happened 2 more times before I got home. I again checked battery and alternator connections without finding anything wrong. I noticed that the fuel pump pressure from the lift pump had gone to zero, and that my coolant temp. sensor had died.
I checked the CTS by grounding out the 1 lead and the coolant temp gauge pegged, so wire good. I bought a new sensor, but temp now is just barely registering on cool. Need to check the resistance on the unit, and probably remove all the Teflon tape, so that it will have a good ground. The cutouts occurred a couple more times while on this last test drive. The electrics quit, and the engine stopped. What was unusual was when this happened I noticed the RPM and speedometer were stuck on the last indications (ex. Showing 50 mph with 2200 RPM showing and engine off). The dash became very dim all gages fuel press, oil press, pyrometer, boost, coolant temp. all died. There was some glow of the dash warning lights, however they were very dim, like a low voltage situation. After waiting a few minutes, I’d turn the key on and all the electrics seemed fine and the engine would start right up, and off we’d go again. At first I thought it might be the key switch itself, but jiggling it didn’t have any discernable effect.
I don’t know if part of the electrical system may be overheating and disconnecting. I am hoping one of you gents will give some ideas on how to chase this down. Maybe a relay?
To give you some information on the vehicle, it is a 1994 Georgie Boy motor home on a Spartan EC2200 chassis. The drive line is a 1993 6.5L TD, DB2 manual fuel injection pump, and a 4L80E transmission. It is a pusher.
Thanks again for any guidance on this matter 😕
Thanks OK, I'll climb back into the pit and start looking. Unfortunately all the wiring is in split loom. I hope I find some sort of burned spot. The Grounds have all been cleaned, tightened and inspected during the engine change. I appreciate your advice now if you had a cattle prod to motivate me!:oops:
 

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This thread shows that the broken wire can be just inside the connector.

 
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Ignition switch.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It does sound like a wiring connection is loose somewhere, might crank it and move and twist ALL wiring and connections possible...
Good idea, if it's running I'd know right away. I'm on it. Thanks:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This thread shows that the broken wire can be just inside the connector.

When the motor dies, the electrical died (I should say the dash went dark--all indicators and lights). When the unit died and I stopped at the side of the road, and as I said the dash was dark, but the tach was frozen at whatever RPM where the electrical seemed to drop and the engine stopped, the speedo was frozen too. After about a minute I turned the key on, the dash indications, RPM 0, speedo 0, all lights were normal and it started right up, all indications were normal, tach and speedo working fine.. 😜
 

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Is the tach move erratically when running?
May want to test the alternator and all electrical connectors?
Ground Ground Ground as OKDually usually says.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is the tach move erratically when running?
May want to test the alternator and all electrical connectors?
Ground Ground Ground as OKDually usually says.
No the RPM is steady. Today will be getting into it. Ground Ground Grind, yep after it thanks:)
 

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How is the fuel filter?
Is there a chance you get bad fuel? or fuel running low?
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How is the fuel filter?
Is there a chance you get bad fuel? or fuel running low?
Thanks for your suggestion JM, however I just changed the filter when I completed the engine installation, installed a new cartridge in my 10 micron inline filter. I fust filled the tank with fresh diesel and Stanadyne 38565-4P additive. The engine runs like a top with smooth idle, and running well until it just dies while driving. The mechanical DB2 has an electrical connection which opens the fuel valve when there is current to the valve, so I suspect there is an electrical component that overheats at some point or draws current away from the harness cutting electrical from the vehicle. I feel this is correct as both the speedometer and tachometer still show the speed and RPM at which they indicated when the electrical quit (this still occurs while we've coasted to a stop, till I've turned off the key for a minute and the electrical comes back). I remember the old adage from my flying days, DC dies and AC lies, as far as gauges are concerned, however in some instances DC gauges do the same, when power is removed or mostly removed (in this case there seems to be some power there, oil press light very dim, try to turn engine over, nothing but electric out put needle twitches) the 2 analog gauges (RPM and speed) freeze. I turn the ignition off for 30 seconds or a minute, and then power is restored to the dash panel and everything is copacetic.
I have crawled into the engine compartment (under the bed in the rear of the RV) had my wife start the engine an just pulled and wiggled every wire nand wire bundle I can get to without any glitching. I've tried wiggling the ignition switch with the engine running without any effect, it's solid feeling and no glitches. If you or anyone out there has a suggestion as to how and test the ignition switch otherwise I'd be glad to learn.
My wife, like myself feels that a component heats up to a point and then the electrical faults. This is driving me crazy, if anyone can think of anything else I can try, let me know. You cannot imagine the amount of wiring on this thing.
Thanks again for chiming in:)
 

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If your ignition switch is similar to the steering column mounted key and switch on GM trucks . Wiggling the key will have no effect on the ignition switch its self. Ign switch is not connected to the key. It is operated by a rod that goes from the key lock to the ignition switch mounted further down on the steering column. If it has a burned out contact. As it heats up from resistance It will pass voltage, but not enough current to keep the FSS pulled in. Stalling is a common problem when it goes bad.
 

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Post up a photo of your dash and ign. switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If your ignition switch is similar to the steering column mounted key and switch on GM trucks . Wiggling the key will have no effect on the ignition switch its self. Ign switch is not connected to the key. It is operated by a rod that goes from the key lock to the ignition switch mounted further down on the steering column. If it has a burned out contact. As it heats up from resistance It will pass voltage, but not enough current to keep the FSS pulled in. Stalling is a common problem when it goes bad.
Hi Glagulator, good to hear from you. I had come across that somewhere in the back of my mind, and your explanation makes it clear. I'll pull the column apart and see if I can get to those contacts. By the way I am dizzy with acronyms, would you please define FSS for me. I suspect you mean a relay of some sort. Do you think I'll be able to see some burn or overheat indications by just looking at it? Thanks for your input!:)
 

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Hi Glagulator, good to hear from you. I had come across that somewhere in the back of my mind, and your explanation makes it clear. I'll pull the column apart and see if I can get to those contacts. By the way I am dizzy with acronyms, would you please define FSS for me. I suspect you mean a relay of some sort. Do you think I'll be able to see some burn or overheat indications by just looking at it? Thanks for your input!:)
I believe he was referring to the Fuel Shut-off Solenoid (FSS)
(y)
 
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Post up a photo of your ignition switch/lock cylinder before you start tearing into it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Post up a photo of your ignition switch/lock cylinder before you start tearing into it.
Ok, when I turn the switch on, I do hear a relay and the rig powers up. On the third and second to the last pictures there is a metal box low on the column that sounds like a rod may be activating contacts down there, but what do I know. I usually break something before I know better. What do you think? How do I attack? Thanks for your post Glagulator!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, when I turn the switch on, I do hear a relay and the rig powers up. On the third and second to the last pictures there is a metal box low on the column that sounds like a rod may be activating contacts down there, but what do I know. I usually break something before I know better. What do you think? How do I attack? Thanks for your post Glagulator!:)
I forgot to post picture of the dash. I'll post it tomorrow!;)
 
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