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1985 k20 chevy with a 6.2
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Discussion Starter #1
I bled all the injector today and got my engine running for the first time but it would only run with the gas pedal pushed, I ran it like this for a few minutes until the injection lines stopped having pressure. I re-bled the lines but when I got to #7 I could tell from the sound that the rest of the lines lost pressure again. After that I took off the top cover that has the fuel shut off solenoid it hissed from pressure releasing ( i'm guessing that means no air got sucked into the pump?). their might of been a little bit of diesel on the under side of the injector pump but it was hard to tell when feeling it. now this is a new injection pump but the last owner broke a bolt then a tap in one one of the holes that hold on the cover with the shut off solenoid I removed the tap and had the hole welded then I redrilled and tapped it, I use fuel safe gasket sealer in the area of the weld when putting the cover back on. I'm hoping I don't have to buy a new pump but is that my only option?
 

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Welcome to DieselPlace
Please tell us a little more about your vehicle ( Year, Make, and Model) and list any known mods.
(y)
 

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It kinda sounds like lack of fuel getting to the IP, what lift pump are you using and are you sure it is working? Loosen the tank cap to ensure their is not any vacuum on the system...
 

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1985 k20 chevy with a 6.2
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to DieselPlace
Please tell us a little more about your vehicle ( Year, Make, and Model) and list any known mods.
(y)
I have an 85 chevy k20 with the 6.2, I don't think its had any mods done.
 

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1985 k20 chevy with a 6.2
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
It kinda sounds like lack of fuel getting to the IP, what lift pump are you using and are you sure it is working? Loosen the tank cap to ensure their is not any vacuum on the system...
It has a brand new mechanical lift pump it seems like like its working properly. The tank cap was on when I bled the injectors I'll try it again later today with the cap off.
 

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1985 k20 chevy with a 6.2
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Discussion Starter #6
Well I tried bleeding it today with the tank cap off I got to injector #5 before It stopped bleeding fuel. Fuel stop solenoid and the linkage it hits still move freely. I tried the bleed screw on the filter after and it was spewing fuel without the lift pump running just from the pressure built up, after it stopped spewing I bled it with the lift pump with no issues. Now I cant get any of the injectors to bleed. Do you think its safe to say the injection pump is the issue now? Maybe the heat from tig welding that damaged hole caused something new to be damaged. I'd like to get this running soon as I can to get it out of the driveway before snow starts falling in a couple of weeks.
 

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I ran into an odd one like this. I had air built up in the injection pump and it wouldnt leave the one way return line check valve. So crank a little then loosen the outlet fitting on the IP (the one on the top with the hose coming off) and let it bleed the air out. Do this a few times until you get pretty much just fuel. Then bleed the injectors. My preference for bleeding injectors is to pull the glow plugs then crank until you see a fuel mist. Otherwise you gotta fight the compression and it takes longer. Plus I've cracked an injector line and that's no fun... Good luck!
 

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1985 k20 chevy with a 6.2
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Discussion Starter #8
Well I went over over the fuel lines to look for a leak and retightened all the connection but found no leaks where air could get in. I tried the return line check valve like roadhog0 said and still no luck. Picked up a injection pump from a scrap yard and installed it. The injectors were bled with the glow plugs out, I also check the glow plugs were they were out they all all measured around .7 ohms and each connection measured around 12v. It still wont start but sound like it wants to, I took a video of the exhaust and what it sounds like
And took a picture of the current timing position the pump was in for the video.
IMG_0318.JPG
 

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1985 k20 chevy with a 6.2
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Discussion Starter #9
The video was taken when it was +5°C outside and with a fresh oil change.
 

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Try rotating the pump a little more toward the driver side.Usually having the pump centered won’t do you much good.6.2 engines work better with the timing rotated to the driver side.
 

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Man, that thing is cranky super fast! I'm impressed! or you have low compression... Other thing to check is make sure the glow plugs are actually getting power at both banks. Also another thing to check as I've done this before with similar results, make sure you're getting power to the shut off solenoid. It will try to start with no power to the solenoid then shut right off. Yeah, tried that once........
 
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