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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am just getting ready to install the fourth set of wheel bearings on my 2007 Classic 2500 HD 4x4 with the LBZ engine and I am wondering if there is a way of lubing the bearings once installed on the truck? Anyone tried it to extend the life of the bearings?
 

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Yes, but you should do a little searching to see what others have experienced. One method is to remove the speed sensor and then inject grease. If the hub is old and rusted, it might not be a good idea to mess with that speed sensor, though, because it may cause problems with that sensor.

So, you can't disassemble the hub but you can add grease ... but they tell me it's a bad idea to mix grease types, what should you use? I bought a new Timken hub and I found "Genuine Timken Grease" on Amazon and squirted a little into the speed sensor hole. Not to be naïve, but (1) I'm sure Timken used their own genuine grease, and (2) I'm sure I can trust everything I buy on Amazon. Right?!?!?
 
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As a fleet mechanic with a fleet of GMC & Chevy trucks, I have found that the number one cause of front wheel bearing failure on gm trucks is poorly actuating rear brakes.
Take the rears apart and inspect, per here...


And, certainly check the front brakes over while your changing bearings.

Freeing all of the brake components up has extended the service lif of my front bearing units to well over 100k, even 200k miles. You're probably cooking the bearings.
 
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I've taken apart 2wd hubs, and the little amount of grease in there makes me shake my head. I've wondered about removing the speed sensor and just squirting some gear oil in there.
 

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2006 LLY 2500HD, LB, +6" ProComp, 37" General's, Fiberglass front fenders, +4" pulled bedsides
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GM front hub bearings for the Silverado trucks are not servicable. If you want a good replacement buy the Kryptonite front hubs with a lifetime warranty.
 

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GM front hub bearings for the Silverado trucks are not servicable. If you want a good replacement buy the Kryptonite front hubs with a lifetime warranty.
Well of course they're not serviceable. Gm don't want them lasting too long..
 

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2006 LLY 2500HD, LB, +6" ProComp, 37" General's, Fiberglass front fenders, +4" pulled bedsides
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Well of course they're not serviceable. Gm don't want them lasting too long..

Actually, I had a 2006 LLY 2500HD 2WD LB, all stock for the first 100k miles, then 35's, then a +6" ProComp lift at 150k miles, and 37's with 2" wheel spacers. At 340k miles my driver's side hub went bad, and at 400k miles the passenger side went bad. I regularly tow a 3500lb flatbed with a 3-4k car on it. That's a lot of miles for OEM hubs so I'm not complaining. SInce then no matter what brand of hub I got they went bad at 15-25k miles but I'd get them warranted by O'Reillys and slap a new one on. The truck had 453k miles and I finally replaced it recently with a new-to-me 2014 3500HD LML. If/when my LML needs hubs I'll go with Kryptonite and the lifetime warranty. I tend to keep my trucks for a long time.

Another fact from my 06 LLY- I had the OEM brake pads and rotors for 430k miles and the pads still had over 50% when I replaced them. Rotors didn't look bad either.




644210
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone
I did watch the video on how to lube them and now I’ve changed the wheel bearing hub assembly on both sides with a so called heavy duty one to see if they last longer. The last time I changed them was November 2019 with Raybestos parts and both sides are gone and no warranty through Rock Auto because I didn’t buy the same brand. Why would I buy more junk I told them but no change on the warranty denial. So if I lube them once a year that may help.
 

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2006 LLY 2500HD, LB, +6" ProComp, 37" General's, Fiberglass front fenders, +4" pulled bedsides
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Curious what video people have watched showing how to lube GM front hub bearings? I searched YouTube and saw a guy who pulled out the ABS sensor and shot grease into the hole. This method is useless. To grease a wheel bearing you need to fully remove, clean, and repack it. Adding grease through the ABS hole will not accomplish this.

The last hub I replaced was some time in early 2020. Not even 10k miles and it failed and failed BIG TIME!

20201013_175253.jpg


Driving 30mph on a residential street and I heard a loud pop. Before I knew what was going on my truck shook then the front left side hit the ground. I saw my 37" tire bounce up in the air as I was fighting the steering wheel and trying not to crash. I slide to a stop after 100 or so feet. I watched my wheel roll down the street toward a house. Nothing I could do but watch it roll and hope no one got in the way. It finally hit a curb about 300 feet away and stopped.



20201013_180130.jpg


My 2006 2500HD was 2WD but I found that the 4WD hubs lasted a little longer. Not this one!



20201013_180134.jpg


Brake caliper was snapped off, the brake line was torn off and the rotor was warped.



20201014_161213.jpg




20201014_165113.jpg




20201014_161222.jpg


The hub was covered under warranty (again) but the rotor, caliper and brake line were not. I think it was about $300 in parts and a few hours to get me back on the road.



20201014_165117.jpg
 

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The last hub I replaced was some time in early 2020. Not even 10k miles and it failed and failed BIG TIME!


View attachment 644320

My 2006 2500HD was 2WD but I found that the 4WD hubs lasted a little longer. Not this one!
I don't think you're supposed to use the hubs without the axle shaft mounted thru it. That may be why it failed. And some hubs may seperate without the axle shaft to hold them together.
 

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I don't think you're supposed to use the hubs without the axle shaft mounted thru it. That may be why it failed. And some hubs may seperate without the axle shaft to hold them together.
It doesn't make a difference. The 2WD hubs are not solid, they just aren't splined and have a cap covering the hole.
 

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It doesn't make a difference. The 2WD hubs are not solid, they just aren't splined and have a cap covering the hole.
you're wrong. It's not just a 'cap'.
644344
 

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Gen III hubs do NOT require the axle present to remain operational. In other words, all Gen III 2wd hubs are the same as 4wd hubs.

#08-03-08-003A: Wheel Hub Changes - Gen III vs. Gen II - (Mar 2, 2009)



General Motors Vehicle Engineering has introduced a new design Gen III front wheel hub for the above listed vehicles that replaces the Gen II product.



These Gen II 4x2 and 4x4 applications that were previously serviced by seven part numbers are now serviced by three Gen III part numbers.



Concerns have been expressed by technicians regarding the use of the new supersessions and whether the Gen III hubs will properly fit the vehicles being serviced, especially because of visual and functional differences (splines). This bulletin has been developed to address those concerns.



Please refer to the table below for information on the Gen III replacement part for each Gen II application. At the end of the bulletin you will find an illustrated “Hub Gallery” with graphic depictions of both Gen II and replacement style Gen III parts. Using these illustrations you should be able to identify both the Gen II and Gen III wheel hubs.



Gen II Design

Superseded by Gen III Design

Applications Serviced

Model

15225750

15946732

Old Body Style HD SUV

4X2 w/SRW

15225751

15946732

Old Body Style HD P/U

4x2 w/SRW

15225750

15946732

New Body Style HD SUV, P/U

4x4 w/SRW




15225752

15946733

Old Body Style HD P/U

4x2 w/DRW

15225753

15946733

Old Body Style HD SUV, P/U

4x4 w/DRW



15881888

15910968

New Body Style HD

4x2 w/SRW

15881889

15910968

New Body Style HD

4x2 and 4x4 w/SRW

SRW = Single Rear Wheel

DRW = Dual Rear Wheel



Warning: If replacing wheel studs, please refer to the GM Parts Catalog for the correct stud part number for each application. Different types of studs are used depending on the wheel hub application.

When replacing an older Gen II design 4x2 hub with a new 4x2/4x4 common Gen III hub, it is acceptable to have a bearing with splines on it for a 4x2 application that previously did not. However, the older Gen II design 4x4 hubs should NOT be used on a 4x2 vehicle. The Gen II 4x4 hub relies on the tension of the wheel drive shaft joint to hold everything together. The roll form feature on the inboard side of the new 4x2/4x4 Gen III hub eliminates this concern.



The only hub that is not back serviceable is P/N 15719007 (not pictured) for 1999-2000 C25 applications due to a different hub flange to bearing flange offset.



Important: Only the new part numbers referenced in this bulletin are interchangeable between the 4x2 and 4x4 applications with the exception of P/N 15719007 (Not Shown). Under no circumstances should any other 4x4 hub be used in a 4x2 application.
 

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Good info. So gm changed the design, but how about the aftermarket? How can you tell by looking at the hubs?
 

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I know I had those pictures from a Timken posting on here, somewhere.
 
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