Put a rebuilt IP in and after a little wd-40 priming I got the engine to finally start. It will not idle, but I could immediately restart it. This could be done for about 2-3 minutes after the initial start. Once it is even a little warm I cannot get it to restart. It does finally start again after it is cold or the next evening when I can work on it again. I have plenty of fuel and sufficient pressure. The glow plugs are working properly done. The timing line on the injector is advanced about 1/8 inch which is how it was when I pulled the other IP off. Could I have screwed up the timing some other way? I am at a loss.
IP change, no start
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How does it run when its running? Smoke? Throttle response?
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are you sure you didn't jump a tooth with the timing gear? Engine is probably starting cold due to the glow plugs working, inhibit switch is probably keeping the glow plugs from working when slightly warmed up. Try disconnecting the return line from the top of injection pump and see if it makes any difference. Try backing off timing to just a lines width advanced from timing mark. Have you checked fuel pressure yet? What are the numbers?
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couple of other things to check, put a 15/16 socket on crankshaft balancer bolt and move the crank back and forth slightly, feeling for possible broken crankshaft, this works best if inspection cover for trans is also removed so you can feel for movement.
Remove balance and check for sheared woodruff key. Something isn't quite right here.
Remove balance and check for sheared woodruff key. Something isn't quite right here.
When it's running i have to keep the accelerator pushed in, it doesn't seem to miss but it does spit some puffs of smoke. When I let of off the throttle it dies. Usually I cannot restart it and the glow plugs do come on. When I start it cold I have to shoot wd-40 into the intake and keep the accelerator to the floor, it will not start warm at all even with glow plugs on. I have fuel coming from the return line at the top of the IP and fuel to the injectors. I'm used to working on gas engines and it feels to me that the timing is retarded. I have the timing mark set at 1/8 inch advance, toward theh driver's side, I put it back with the lines matching and it tried to hit when it was cold but wouldn't take off. Can the timing marks for the gears be seen through the hole where the oil fill tube goes in? Any other way to check timing on the engine? I don't have anything to check diesel timing with.
Also, the original pump was a 2829, the replacement is a 4544, does this make a difference?
Also, the original pump was a 2829, the replacement is a 4544, does this make a difference?
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Both of your pumps (all 6.2s for that matter) are DB2829-XXXX, so you must have missed the PN on your old pump.
Sounds like they installed your driveshaft 180 out.
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ditto, sound like the pump was assembled incorrectly and it severely retarded. Return pump for replacement.
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I believe that there is a ring on the inside of the pump that can be installed backwards and cause severely retarded timing. Pump will need to come back apart. Warranty!
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Test bench won't pick it up if its 180 out, the pump would have to be carefully disassembled to know for sure....Unless, you have the old style driveshaft thats held in by an o-ring instead of a snap ring.
Then you could pull the driveshaft out yourself and note how the drivetang on the shaft is oriented compared to the rotor inside. It should be dot to dot.
I called a rebuild shop to see if they can test the pump, they said it would have to be disassembled to check it out. Since the pump is under warranty I will not do this. I removed the water pump and checked the timing marks, everything is matched up so I called dieselcare and told them what was going on. They asked me a few questions and are sending me another pump. They didn't sound too convinced that it was the pump but I have checked everything else I can think of. Hope the new pump is the fix!
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