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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All. Bought my first diesel today. A 1993 mechanical injection, manual trans, 4x4, 2500 with 170k miles. It was a surveyors truck and is bone stock.

I bought it for an operator to use on our oil wells. Lots of highway miles. no real towing, in fact it doesnt even have a tow hitch reveiver mounted on but ill probably get that done. i wanted a diesel that would sip the fuel to bring our operating cost per barrel down.

didnt want the 94+

would have preferred the later interior style. but meh. one day maybe we will convert one to a mech.

it was either the mechanical 6.5 or the 7.3 idi or powerstroke. this truck amazingly has no rust.

question: this truck has the hood paint peeling and a bit on the passenger fromt quarter panel. but the steel hasnt rusted. it looks to be galvanized????

is it?


there is only one issue i can find with the truck: there is only 1 out of 4 speakers with sound. any clues before i scour the forums?

Any other regular items i should do to start? I drove it 2hrs home and it runs perfectly.


thanks guys, im a regular over at corvetteforum in the c4 section. with the. ettes i always pour over the rpo stickers. unfortunately the rpo sticker in this truck is hard to read as it was in the glove box and is rubbed out.

Nice to meet you guys and look fwd to keeping this truck performing for 100,000's more klm.

all comments and recommendations welcome to prep unit for steady service, not really tough hd work but steady reliable service.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
thought i would try the truck at night.

couple small defficiencies to sort out:

a) interior dome light not turning on when opening the door. maybe my truck didnt come with that option.

b) backlights behind the headlight buttons and the hvac buttons not working (hvac works, led blend/temp display works, just backlights are out)

c) every couple minites while idling something must come on electronically somewhere because i can see the alternator gauge drop below 14v and the blower speed drops with it for the brief moment. then the extra draw must cease and the boltage needle returns to 14.7 ish.

Im 41 and as a kid i grew up in 6.2 and 6.5 diesel suburbans and it feels great to see the familiar rumble again.

comments welcome!
 

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Welcome!
Nice looking ext.
The steel is not galvanized, but the primer they used usually stays when the paint peels. No clue why the two paints don't stick together, but it is an issue on GM's entire line...

The speakers fail.

Enjoy it.
 

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Is there a switch on the door panel edge of the dash? My 94 driver's door button doesn't work well... 24 years of action must have worn it out. I can get my dome to Flickr if I jiggle it...
 

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respect the DB4 5722....
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check your small actuating buttons on each side of the dash, where the doors press them closed; probably a little bit of dry graphite, or a bit of vaseline, then turn and rotate them and they will probably come back to life....

as for other things on the truck, check to be sure the front starter bracket is there and bolted to both the starter and the block, also, for preventative maintenance replace the black rubber hose on top of the IP with a clear hose to keep an eye on, any sort of air infiltration, any bubbles will equal issues down the road... do you see any signs that the injectors have been serviced lately? good place to start servicing, new injectors are always a good investment; if you have a stanadyne authorized shop close to you, or if you own your own tester, pull a couple and have them tested, better to know, than not to....BTW, nice survivor....:thumb::thumb:......J&J....
 

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Check the fuses? Mine is there on the dash side facing the driver door.
 

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Congrats on the purchase! Good looking truck!:thumb:
 

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Nice looking truck! It seems that the clear coat wears off from the sun and being buffed out. Once it gets too thin it starts to let go.
Fuel economy should be better than a gas engine but not as good as a 6.2. X2 on the injectors. Worn injectors are the silent engine killers. They should be replaced every 100,000 miles or less. Insist on Genuine Bosch or Delphi parts.
 
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check harmonic balancer and pulley.
rad hoses might be dry rot if original.
check serp belt for cracks.
voltage drop could be GP relay. does the light come on also?
you have the best of both worlds: man trans and mech IP.

from WIKI:
To enhance durability the trucks featured extensive use of galvanized steel for corrosion resistance and a fully welded frame with a boxed front section for strength and rigidity.[70]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_C/K
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Guys. I think was a base model truck and there is no dome light switch that activates the interior light with an open door.

I have my suspicions about the tstat either missing or being stuck open. the gauge does move and after a while it eventually reach 69C or 156F. I suspect missing or open tstat. evause i start to get heat from my heater rather quickly. Its like the fluid is circulating right from the start. I mention the cool running because it might affect responses about the following:

Here is a symptom from cold starting today in -20C / -2F without being plugged in overnight. It started as i remember my fathers did in the mid 90's. Rough, with plenty of white smoke. It started on my second try after giving the glow plugs thier requested time. I thought that was pretty good considering it wasnt plugged in, my understanding is that when temps are well below freezing starting these 6.5/6.2's without plugging in is nearly impossible but i might be wrong.

Ive read that white smoke can be glow plugs. I also read it could be a bit of air in the fuel supply lines.

Then if you get continued white smoke while driving it can be injectors providing too much fuel (stuck partially open).

In my case i get white smoke for a while even after ive started driving. It eventually goes away and appears to be correlated with engine temps. The warmer, the less white smoke.


my path to correction was going to be as follows:


i would like to install new injectors and glow plugs. what is the best make and model of each based on the collective experience here?

Check all fuel lines for pliable rubber and replace all stiff or cracked ones.

What else does this sound like to you guys?
 

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Heater shouldn't be gated by the thermostat (in that, it would really suck if your truck had to get warm enough to open the thermostat before water would flow through the heater core)....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Heater shouldn't be gated by the thermostat (in that, it would really suck if your truck had to get warm enough to open the thermostat before water would flow through the heater core)....

Thanks for that Davestar. One less piece of evidence about a tstat open. The heater DOES get hot and probide heat. So perhaps the dash gauge is innacurate.
 

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What a mint k2500.

I wouldn't worry too much if it's only white smoke, unless water is getting inside the combustion chambers. (Headgaskets)
Pretty sure these didn't come galvanized as standard before the HD's in the late 2000's.
As for the lighting and speakers. I'd set in new bulbs, taking apart the dash doesn't require any tools if you're gentle. And for the speakers, they are most likely spent and needs replacing.
There's a tiny chance some speaker wires are frayed, but really unlikely since it's 3 speakers.
Be careful when you're gonna replace the thermostat, the bolts to the housing has a high chance of snapping. And you can't drill them out either since they are hardened bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi All.

Question regarding the oil cooler lines. Mine are leaking from the crimp onto the rubber hose.

I have no problem replacing them however the gu who sold me the truck said he has had permanent success with placing a hose clamp over the leaking crimp and tightening it it down.

This seems like a nice band aid fix until it warms up in my part of the world and i can comfortably replace the hoses correctly.

any experience with this?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
hi guys.

so my cooler lines are weeping at the crimps. wiped them off today and installed hose clamps to sinch them down until replacements arrive. ive noted your warnings. thnx.


i think i found why my temps dont seem to warm up past 70c. is the fan supposed to be on all the time? or is there a clutch for it? mine is on all the time.
 

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Don't replace your oil cooler lines with the factory style lines. Get the ones from Leroy Diesel.
 

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respect the DB4 5722....
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we wouldnt mess with the oil cooler lines at all until replacements parts were in hand, they are so weak and fragile as is, we replace ours with real hydraulic lines and fittings, as most of the kits available now are just Chinese quality hose and fittings....

as for injectors, make sure to buy genuine bosch, or delphi brand, and have them pop-tested, even if they are brand new, they have been known to fail right out of the box....

for glow plugs, make sure you buy a self limiting type, whether bosch, or ACdelco 60G, and since the truck will be in somewhat off the road locations, might be a good idea to install a manual glow-plug system to help starting with some extended glow times, and if the fan does not free spin when the engine is off, the fan clutch is finished more than likely....J&J.
 

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I’d even put pipe plugs in the block temporarily until new lines arrive.I’d rather install the pipe plugs over slightly leaking cooler lines.As mentioned they can rupture in a split second and pump oil all over the ground before you can catch it in time.
 
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