Don't know if this will help, but getting ready to do my boost/EGT gauge setup. With the Super Diesel's manifold kit, they suggest hairspray on the silicone hose connectors. Never would of thought of hairspray-

 

Hairspray is an old motorcross trick for installing grips on your handlebars. Slick so you can get them on...then when it dries it's tacky but still removable.

I haven't heard of the Dmax having issues with the hoses and mine certainly doesn't. I have however blown up an intercooler on a 6.0 PSD and it's exciting to say the least...LOL...

 

Odd...have had them come in blown off, a new clamp and they never return...wonder if its a sizing issue.....

 

I had mine do that w/ my 14k 5er in tow. It turned out that the aluminum tube was overtightened at the dealership - several months earlier, and w/ high boost the hose could not/would not stay on the alum tube that was deformed into a slight cone by the overtightened clamp. SOLUTION - relace the alum tube, AND adhesive applied at each joint. There is a GM TSB about these connections and the application of adhesive. Not problem since. Good Luck!!

 

42lb of boost after intercooler and tubes stay on just fine

 

here is the bulletin........hth..
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Subject: Turbo Charge Air Cooler Hose Oil Seepage, Or Dislodged On Acceleration - keywords 04 05 06 07 6.6 black boost clamp cool intake LBZ leak LLY low no noise P0299 pipe power smoke surge turbo whistle #



Models: 2004-2007 Chevrolet Express, Kodiak, Silverado Classic

2004-2007 GMC Savana, Sierra Classic, TopKick

Equipped with the LBZ or LLY 6.6L Diesel Engine




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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Oil seepage from turbo charge air cooler hoses, or charge air cooler hose becomes dislodged during acceleration.

It is possible to have DTC P0299.

Due to the closed PCV system on the 6.6 LLY engine it is normal to have oil residue in the air charge cooler hoses and pipes.
The oil will migrate to the lower areas of the air charge cooler system and may cause customer concerns of oil seepage.
This may also cause the Charge Air Cooler hoses to dislodge when turbo boost is high.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Do a visual inspection of Charge Air Cooler connections and hoses.
Replace Charge Air Cooler hoses, pipes, or clamps if damaged.
Properly clean all oil from Charge Air Cooler pipes and hoses.
Charge Air Cooler hoses and pipes are marked for proper installation. The hoses are marked with ENG, DUCT, or CAC (charge air cooler). The hoses and pipes must installed correctly. The engine side is marked ENG, the duct side (the aluminum pipe) is marked DUCT, and the charge air cooler side is marked CAC.
Apply a very thin coat of sealer part number 97720043 to the Charge Air Cooler hose connections.
Install hose and properly torque charge air cooler hose clamps to 70 lb in/8 nm.
Allow the RTV sealer to dry for 3 to 4 hours. Recheck the Charge Air Cooler for leaks using the appropriate Kent Moore leak tester.
Kent Moore tools are listed below.

• 2001-2005 C/K trucks equipped with the 6.6 LB7 and LLY Diesel Engine - Tool Number J-46091.


• 2006 C/K trucks equipped with the 6.6 LBZ or LLY Diesel Engine - Tool Number J-46091-5.


• 2006 G Van Equipped with the 6.6 LLY Diesel Engine - Tool Number J-46091-10.


There is a new procedure for testing air charge cooler systems. At this time, the Charge Air Cooler Diagnosis (Full System Air Leak Test) can be found in the SI diagnostics for the 2007 model diesel engine vehicles. This full system test can be used on older model vehicles equipped with the Duramax Diesel Engine

 

Is there a bulletin reference number?

Is there a service bulletin reference number that I can give to the dealer? I noticed that when I looked at the end of the aluminum boost tube that it was out of round due to overtightening of the clamp.

--fishingoutdoorsman

 

i just had the same issue hit me again last weekend going over stevens pass here in washington. i had already had the intercooler pipe, clamps and couplers replaced just over a year ago. this time i noticed that the pipe flange was crushed in on one side. i used a monkey wrench to bend out the flange and make it wider on the outside to make it fit tighter beyond the clamp. i'm in the process of calling the dealer tomorrow to replace the tube again. ahg... btw, i have also have the "closed system for pcv" changed to vent into the air cleaner housing to prevent oil build up in the charger hose. i agree that this is a pain. i'm really tempted to go to a exhaust shop and have them custom bend me a steel or SS tube with a bead welded on the ends to keep the hose on.

anyone in the aftermarket biz want to make some custom cooler intake pipes?

 

Is there a service bulletin reference number that I can give to the dealer? I noticed that when I looked at the end of the aluminum boost tube that it was out of round due to overtightening of the clamp.

--fishingoutdoorsman

Document ID# 1948589
#PIP3068D - (03/30/2007)

 

Funny, this was the first thread I found when I did a search. I was driving home tonight, hopped on the pedal for a few seconds, and BooooM! what the??? I said "I did it, I blew the turbo". Chugged home about 10 miles with no power and black smoke. The strange thing was I could hear the turbo scream when I stepped on the pedal. Noticed when i got home that the sound of the turbo was coming from the front of the engine. Hmmm?? looked straight down next to the battery and saw the intercooler hose fell off. Never knew a hose falling off could create such a loud bang and smoke! Gonna let the engine cool a bit and put the hose back on. Hopefully this was the only problem....we will see soon.

 

IMO the problom starts with the pcv sending all the oil into the intercooler lines...that should be the first thing fixed

then use hairspray or even better grip glue and clamp her down

jmho

 

The oil is what makes them pop off... its rarely a bad clamp. All it takes it a small amount of oil and it doesn't matter how tight the clamp is... that pipe is going to shoot out of the boot. Make sure to clean the area of ALL oil... if you have hairspray (which is rare unless you are going on vacation and the wife packed some) then use that.

I was towing once and had the pipe burst off... i wasn't laying into the throttle so i didn't notice the smoke. i thought for sure it was a radiator hose that exploded. i found my clamp hanging onto the EGT sensor... almost lost it on the road somewhere


:thumb:

 

Lucked out. Seems the hose falling off was the only issue. Wiped it down cleaned it and hair sprayed. Took it for a ride. Good as new. That's a relief. I was thinking I was in for a three day weekend of knuckle banging and out a few hundred for a used turbo off ebay.... LUCKY!

 

Yeah - scared me 1/2 to death when I had it happen ..... was going (slightly) downhill at the time and thought " hmmmm - that sounds cool .... she's got some nasty growl now ! " til I stepped on it and had no power !!!

 

Lucked out. Seems the hose falling off was the only issue. Wiped it down cleaned it and hair sprayed. Took it for a ride. Good as new. That's a relief. I was thinking I was in for a three day weekend of knuckle banging and out a few hundred for a used turbo off ebay.... LUCKY!

now rerought the PCV and perhaps this will never happen again

 

I called the shop and reminded them about the service bulletin. I picked the truck up yesterday and the GM Sealer they used is some thick, black looking goo. It was dried hard. Hopefully this will fix it.

For all you guys that fixed yours, run out and tow something heavy to test it. Your turbo makes more boost when your in tow/haul mode with some resistance. That's what made mine blow off both times.

 

It would be nice if you could time the damn thing to blow when the mother-in-law was standing on the side walk.....bang.....watch her take cover!

 

Or the cop that just pulled you over..

"i told you i was trying to get to my shop BEFORE the engine blew!! thanx man you just screwed me over!!"

... might be able to get you out of a ticket ):h

 

Same Problem...Lower Inner Cooler Hose

Great thread, have the same problem....just ordered a new hose along with recommended sealant....question, can't seem to find the GM OEM clamps that go along with hose...have a 2004 2500HD duramax LLY. Thanks in advance for any/all assistance.

 

Inner Cooler Hose & Clamps

Great thread, have the same problem....just ordered a new hose along with recommended sealant....question, can't seem to find the GM OEM clamps that go along with hose...have a 2004 2500HD duramax LLY. Thanks in advance for any/all assistance.

 

Great thread, have the same problem....just ordered a new hose along with recommended sealant....question, can't seem to find the GM OEM clamps that go along with hose...have a 2004 2500HD duramax LLY. Thanks in advance for any/all assistance.

 

(2.69"-3.00). CLAMP
TURBOCHARGER INTERCOOLER SYSTEM

 

Had the same issue last month. Was following an SUV pulling a TT and had my 5ver in tow. He was going slow on a 4 lane highway so I moved over and stepped on the throttle. Just as I got almost around him then BOOM. Scared the heck out of me and then thought the engine blew as black smoke was rolling out and power dropped within seconds. Popped the hood and seen the downpour was off. Had to let it cool, outside temps were in the 90's and working over a hot engine was such a pleasure on the side of a major highway with the 53 footers flying by @ 70mph. Got my tool box out and finally got it back on and tightens up, knock on wood it hasn't happens again.

 

PPE Intercooler boot and clamps best thing ever! Never had that problem again

 

TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-93-001A
Date: February 12, 2010
Subject: Engine Oil Leaks from Charge Air Cooler and Turbocharger Air Inlet Adapter (Replace Clamp and/or Turbo Inlet Duct/Pipe)
Models:
2007-2009 Chevrolet Kodiak
2007-2010 Chevrolet and GMC Light and Medium Duty Trucks Equipped with Diesel Engines
2007-2010 Chevrolet Silverado Equipped with Engine RPO LLY, LBZ or LMM Diesel
2007-2009 GMC TopKick Equipped with Engine RPO LLY, LBZ or LMM Diesel
2007-2010 GMC Sierra
Please Refer to GMVIS Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-93-001 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System). Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine oil leak from the rear of the engine near the flywheel housing. Upon further investigation, a technician may find oil in the charge air cooler or turbocharger air inlet adapter.
Cause
Note
Oil found in this system is very rarely an indication of a turbocharger failure. This condition may be caused by a loose clamp at the inlet duct/pipe located on the turbocharger. Oil may carry over from the PCV system and leak out the turbo inlet duct/pipe.
Correction
Note
Do not replace the turbocharger if oil is found in the charge air cooler pipes. Important
When replacing the clamp, tighten the clamp to 5 Nm (41 lb in), then loosen and re-tighten to 5 Nm (41 lb in). OIL LEAK FOUND AT CHARGE AIR COOLER OUTLET (HOT SIDE)
Clean the rubber duct hose with soapy water and allow to dry. Apply a thin bead of high temperature RTV silicone sealant to the turbocharger compressor outlet port and CAC duct connections.
Tighten
Tighten the clamps to 8 Nm (70 lb in). OIL LEAK FOUND (Full-Size Pickup Trucks - Silverado and Sierra)
Replace the turbo inlet duct/pipe and clamp with P/N 98011738.
OIL LEAK FOUND (Vans and Medium Duty Trucks)
Replace the air intake clamp with P/N 97376379. Refer to Air Intake Pipe Replacement in SI.
Parts Information
Note
Do not replace the inlet adapter/duct on vans and medium duty trucks - only replace the clamp.

 

Turbo Hose

Hi. Hi Everyone
My name is Phil C. and have a 2008 Chevy C5500 Duramax 6.6 LMM Motorhome Jayco Seneca Kodiak Chassis. As I was traveling from AZ to the east coast we had the Hose blow off the turbo on the driver side, I hooked back up after cleaning off, and got me back to NY. I then was on my way to the get the frontend worked on when the hose came of again, We had a new hose put on GM #15020972 I noticed that hose had crakes in it and warn out. the plan is to replace the other hose that's on the Tube that go's from the turbo to the intercooler, Is there anything else that I need to know or have to check out.


If anyone can help please call me at (845) 629-5416 Am trying to get help with my 2008 6.6 LMM