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Has anyone had any luck getting the integrated trailer brake controller to work with electric over hydraulic trailer brakes? I read somewhere a while back about adding an electric brake magnet to the trailer brake system but now that I have a new truck, I can't find that article.
 

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I have...

First, make sure the 12v feed is connected under hood.. (not done so a factory) this is the 12v always on feed in the trailer connection (this runs the hydraulic pump).

Next, get a couple of magnets and wire them in the trailer. cut the blue wire (0-10V electric brake wire) and splice it in. Connect other side to white wire. The blue wire will tell the pump how much pressure to develop...

That is it...

Now, the IBC will get a ping back from the magnets and turn on... got 7K towing like this and no problems!
 

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Thank for the help, filip. I bought two brake magnets at TSC and wired them together in parallel. I made a pig tail with a male seven pin connector on one end and a female seven pin connector on the other end. I connected the magnets in the center of the pig tail with one side of the magnets connected to the blue wire and the other side of the magnets to the white wire. This way I can use this pig tail with any trailer. I just plug one end of the pig tail into my truck and the other end into my trailer. Works great. The only downside is that if my trailer wiring ever becomes disconnected, the DIC will still see the pig tail and not indicate a problem. Looks like GM would offer an adapter to address this problem. Thanks again. This website is the greatest.
 

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Nicely done!
 

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I have a 2007 Silverado with ITBC and have electric/hydraulic trailer and it has a magnet on it but it won't work. It puts out 6.7 volts at the controller pin in the female plug with no load hooked to it. took to dealer to check it they said it won't work on the ITBC and gave me the Document ID#2018491. Are they right or wrong.
 

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I have...

First, make sure the 12v feed is connected under hood.. (not done so a factory) this is the 12v always on feed in the trailer connection (this runs the hydraulic pump).

Next, get a couple of magnets and wire them in the trailer. cut the blue wire (0-10V electric brake wire) and splice it in. Connect other side to white wire. The blue wire will tell the pump how much pressure to develop...

That is it...

Now, the IBC will get a ping back from the magnets and turn on... got 7K towing like this and no problems!

nice!! clever idea. :cool:

ben
 

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I have a 2007 Silverado with ITBC and have electric/hydraulic trailer and it has a magnet on it but it won't work. It puts out 6.7 volts at the controller pin in the female plug with no load hooked to it. took to dealer to check it they said it won't work on the ITBC and gave me the Document ID#2018491. Are they right or wrong.
It might take 2 magnets to make the ITBC recognize the trailer. Kind of guessing but I know some aftermarket brake controls will not turn on with only one magnet hooked up.
 

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I tried with one and it worked and did not work.. I have 2 now and never a problem.. Make sure the 12V is connected in under the hood.. it is not connected from the factory... I am sure you mean 2007.5 since that was the first to get ITBC...

Remember with Elect/Hydr. the 12V from trailer powers the pump, the blue wire tells the pump the pressure to do, white is common. The trick is to fool the ITBC by adding magnets so it know to turn on (by seeing the magnets,simple explanation)...

In electric brakes, the voltage on the blue wire is the "pull" on the magnets on the brake drum.. You don' t need the 12V constant in the electric brake scenario...
 

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I tried the 2 magnets yesterday and it don't say connected when pluged in but the master cylinder pumps real slow all the time it is pluged in. I check the ground it checks good and checked both plugs on truck the check the same. I don't think the control is putting out enough volts? Should it put out 10 volts at the blue wire when it is max out? I hooked to my flatbed that has 2 8K axles on it and it works great will slid wheel on 10.
 

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If the truck doesn't say "trailer connected" as soon as you plug in the trailer, then you probably do not have the magnets wired in correctly. They must be connected to the blue wire on one end and the white wire on the other end. I wired my two magnets in parallel with each other. I would not recommend wiring them in series. Another possiblility would be a blown fuse. If you are getting voltage on the blue wire then the fuse is okay. My blue wire pulses like a turn signal when the trailer is not connected. I assume this is the computer searching for a trailer connection. The "trailer connected" and "trailer disconnected" alarms are only related to the blue wire being connected to the white wire through magnets. These alarms do not appear to be related to the lighting circuits in any way. I have not checked the blue wire voltages with the magnets connected but I do know that the blue wire voltage is proportional to the brake pedal pressure. So do not expect full voltage unless you are pressing the pedal really hard and possilby with the engine running (may be proportional to brake fluid pressure rather than brake pedal pressure). If you want to see full voltage on the blue wire, I would recommend setting the gain to 10.0 and squeezing the lever on the ITBC.
 

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I would like to everyone that helped to get my ITBC to work which Chevy PR says it won't work. I added the 2nd magnet and it is working great . And Filip keep up good work there may be a open at the top of GMC to make it work right.
 

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Ridgerunner just seen you post this AM the second magnet I put on didn't work good something like 6.7 volts and no connection light then I turned the magnet over with flat side to the metal now getting 10.68 volts and connected light when key turn off and back on. It great to tell them it will work. I wonder who the screwball's maybe over paid CEO's. Thank to internet and good will to help people without makeing them bend over. THANKS again to everyone
 

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I didn't realize that magnet placement would make a difference. I laid both of my magnets side by side and wired tied them together, then wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape. Guess I just got lucky the on the first try. Since my set-up is a pig tail that I can take from trailer to trailer, I didn't mount the magnets to anything. I am guessing that you mounted the magnet to the frame of your trailer. Anyway, glad to hear you got it working!! It's great to have this network of real information we can turn to. The owners manual and the dealerships are worthless. I'm really surprised that the aftermarket hasn't produced a solution to this problem (especially Dexter, the ITBC has to have hurt their sales).
 

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Ridgerunner436 I tried turning the magnet over when I bolted the magnet on the trailer and it didn't change anything as far as brakes working . And the trailer connected light won't come on until shut the engine off and start back up. Maybe the the magnet deal was a loose connection before I finished ? But it works good now but the pump still pulses, Which it dont with the 05 GMC. Maybe this will help somebody in the future.
 

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FYI:

If you're using one of the Titan pumps (brakerite) they have a fix.

http://www.titan-intl.com/titan-tire/titan-trailer/Technical-Bulletins

The parts are:
4846000 for standard Brakerite
4845900 for Brakerite II (Simply plugs into the unit)

Looking at it, it's probably just some sort of load (like a brake magnet) they sell for $100, but I was encouraged by this. Didn't find much mention of it online either. The Titan folks were quite helpful.
 

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First, make sure the 12v feed is connected under hood.. (not done so a factory) this is the 12v always on feed in the trailer connection (this runs the hydraulic pump).

Damn...I'm amazed I found this thread! I have an '08 D-Max and just bought a brand new Extreme triple axle Malibu Wakesetter trailer with 6 disc brake units.

Unfortunately, I to unknowingly opted for the Carlisle electric/hydraulic UPGRADE...but obviously was not aware that it would not work upon the first hookup ...I guess, neither was Extreme... :-O

So, I contacted Carlisle, and they sent me an "HBA-CAM" #400-1021 add-on module, which must have these "magnets" somehow wired internally (magnets themselves don't actually have "wiring", but can be wrapped ala a choke, filter or reed switch of sorts).

Before, nothing on my DIC registered when I plugged in the trailer...but after installation of this second module, everything registers properly with a "Trailer Connected" dash indication....AND proper bar-graph movement functionality (both by brake pedal and by manual actuation from the two dash knobs), but still NO FRICKEN BRAKES (and I got SIX ofem!)

I just checked back with Extreme, and they said the same thing....that the upper right connector MUST HAVE 12 volts. Mine does not (as was properly noted it does not come from the factory....go figure!) And for the life of me, I cannot find any listed fuse receptical or additional wiring so labled to provide the necessary 12 volts to that connector.

Soooo, can someone with a little more detailed explanation beyond "make sure the 12v feed is connected under hood"......please just tell me exactly WHERE under the hood is this connection made???

Once working, this will be one badass setup...I hope!!!! :cool::cool::cool:
 

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Ok....no worries....I found it!

It's the loose, red (non-connected) 12ga wire wound up between the fuse box and the fender under the hood. Then you simply bolt that loose ring-connector end to either the 30 or 40 amp lead just forward of the fuse box (both are exposed). I chose the 30 amp post.

Only problem, once connected, your one 12v connector at the rear of the truck is also always HOT....and as others have properly mentioned, would then be subject to the same corrosion issues as a battery terminal itself....especially when exposed to water (or even worse with salt water contact!)

Also as some have mentioned in similar threads, you can avoid this "always hot/corrosion problem" by simply using a "Power Relay" of sufficient size...ie: 12v coil with 30 amp contacts in a SPST configuration (which then becomes "off/on" with your ignition key).

This Power Relay is controlled by the lead you make to the "ENG" (15amp), #3 fuse under your main fuse cover.

Pretty simple actually!
 

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Well, now I'm pissed. Damn...time to buy a Ford Powerstroke!!! Well, maybe not, but I'm still not too happy.

After finding that above wire loop and connecting it to one of the two available aux power connectors on the forward side of the fuse box (I used the 30 amp connector).....it SHOULD HAVE provided 12v power to the rear trailer plug connector, labeled 12v on the cap face (the blade at the 2:00 o'clock position).

Power (12v) checks out perfectly at the source (that aux connector noted above), so it must either be an inline fuse that's blown somewhere (does it have one?) ....or the wire is compromised somewhere along it's length (but somehow, not shorted).

Anybody ever run into this crazy situation?? Know of any other possible fuses???
 
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