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How to become an Injector replacement Porn Star!

See the following thread if you're wondering what the heck I'm talking about.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121628

Everyone has asked the question, "How do I remove the passenger side injectors?" The answers vary from, "Just remove the heat shields, get a 30mm injector socket that you can put a wrench on the end and you're good to go. Oh and #8 can be a bit of a &itch!" To, "Just remove the turbo and heatshields and you're all set". To.....well you know what I mean. I asked the question. I got the answers. I took every bit I could and figured it out.

So....I thought I would try and give a little more comprehensive explanation, with some pics, to try and help anyone that is thinking about doing the job. Here we go.......


I finished replacing my passenger's side injectors and glow plug yesterday, and you know what, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.

Yes, I took "the long way". I removed the upper intake, air cleaner assemby (including airbox), CDR valve and related tubing, battery and tray, inner fender, turbo and heat shields.

Yes, that is a lot of stuff to take off but it's all very straight forward and pretty simple to remove. One thing I would suggest, is if you're not the kind of person who easily remembers where things came off and how and where they go back on, set up some sort of labeling system. There is quite a bit of stuff that gets unplugged and lots of nuts and bolts.

**Before you start any removal of the turbo or injectors, soak them with some type of penetrating spray. I used B'Laster. I sprayed down everything I could see the night before and then again as I started to expose various nuts and bolts**

-I started with the upper intake. Simple, we've all done that. Nothing more to explain.

-Air cleaner assembly and CDR. Simple. Same as above.

-Battery and tray. Yep, you guessed it. Simple, same as above.

-Inner fender. Simpe, but it's not something that we've all done so I'll explain a little.

There are approx twelve 13mm bolts that hold the inner fender liner in. Have a look, you'll find them. In the engine bay are 3 lines/hoses held onto the fender by a plastic clip. That's it. remove the 13mm bolts, unclip the hoses and pop the fender out. I didn't remove the wheel and still got it out without any trouble. It would be easier but I thought I would try it with taking it off. To get the fender liner out, you do need to squeeze it together slightly to get it to get it to clear the body. You'll see what I mean when you do it.

Once the fender liner is out you can now see everything you need to get at to remove the turbo. I tried removing the turbo before taking out the liner but it was a pain. I also replaced glow plugs and I think it's pretty much a necessity to take the liner out to get at the glow plugs.


So the fender liner is out, now it's time for the turbo. First start with the top of the turbo. Remove the oil supply line with a 19mm wrench. Then remove the support bar that goes from the turbo to the to the intake, 15mm socket if I recall correctly. Then I removed the heat shields. It gives you a little more room underneath to get at the nuts that mount the turbo to the manifold and oil return tube (at least I think that's what that tube is). To remove the heat sheilds, it's just the 2 screws that you see and then just work it out.

On the bottom side of the turbo you have to remove four 15mm nuts (yes nuts, the turbo has threaded studs that are held onto the manifold with bolts), two 10mm bolts that hold on the oil return tube and the band clamp that attaches the turbo to the downpipe, 11mm nut. You can remove these things in whatever order you like. One little tip. You only need to completely remove the 10mm bolt on the oil return tube closest to the outside of the vehicle and just loosen the one closest to the engine. The one closest to the engine is slotted so it will just slide out once it's backed off enough. That bolt is one of the trickiest to get to, a stubby wrench is what worked best for me.

Your turbo is now off and you have a wide open view of all your injectors and glow plugs.

Removal process for the injectors is the same as the driver's side. The return line clamps are still a pain the the @ss. The guy that discovered/invented the return lines that don't require clamps is a
&ucking genius! I found that you have to get a least one of the clamps off each injector in order for the injector socket to fit over. It also depends on which way the little squeeze tabs on the clamp are facing.

I found a breaker bar vs. the ratchet worked best on this side. I found that if I climbed right up into the engine bay and sat on the top of the grille where the battery used to be, putting one foot on the tire and the other on some part of the suspension/steering assembly, I was able to push straight forward to break the torque on the injectors. It takes about 5
pushes/turns to completely break the torque (at least on mine it did) and then you can pretty much unscrew them with your fingers.

The injector lines have a little more play on this side than the driver's side but you still have to be careful not to horse them around too much. From what I've read there is a coating inside the lines (on new trucks anyway) that can flake off and foul your injectors. 19mm wrench to remove injector lines.

When installing new injectors, don't forget to use anti-seize on the threads and don't forget to use new washers.

One of the return line nipples needs to be capped on #8. Install that before you install the injector.

If you're also doing glow plugs they are straight forward except you'll see the middle 2 plugs have heat shield tubes. I removed them to get at the plugs, not sure if you have to but it worked for me. If you do remove them, after you've installed the new plugs, before you put the heat shields back on, thread the wire through the tube and connect it to the glow plug and then bolt the heat shield back on. This will save you trying to get in there with a pair of needle nose pliers. About the only reason I would see to remove the wheel is when you're dealing with these 2 glow plugs, especially the one behind the downpipe. If the wheel was off, it would be much easier to see and get at. I managed with the wheel on. Don't forget to use anti-seize on the glow plug threads too. Something non-silicone based.

So you've now removed all the old and installed all the new, now it's time to start putting things back together.

I installed the heatshields first. It makes it easier for getting them in place but it makes getting the band clamp for the downpipe a little tougher to get back on.

I put the band clamp back on first but didn't tighten it right up. The downpipe didn't line up exactly with the turbo so I bolted the turbo back to the manifold first and then the oil return tube. Then I tightened the band clamp and it pulled the downpipe back in place.

Once the turbo is back on, it's a no brainer from there. The inner fender can go back on so you can re-install the battery and air cleaner assembly.

Hopefully you've kept track of all your nuts and bolts and remembered what you unplugged and where it plugs back in.

Once everything is all back together, no bleeding is required. I did open the valve on the top of the fuel filter until fuel flowed out. I'm not sure if that's required but I did it. After that I fired her up. She took an extra second to start but then ran like a champ.

This morning I tested it on a cold start. It got down to about -5c over night and was right around 0c when I started it. It fired right up, almost like a gasser and NO SMOKE. Previously I would get a cloud of stinky white smoke that would practically cover my house.

So there you have it. I hope I've given someone the information and inspiration to tackle the job. If you're skilled at taking things apart and putting them back together, it's a simple job. :grd:

I've attached a few pics to help you get a visual of what you see.

If anyone has anything to add or correct, please feel free to do so.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #2
pics

Pics are coming. I have to re-size some of them.

Please standby.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pics

More pics
 

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Nice work Dave!
 

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Hey nice compilation. I just did the job about 4 months ago--I laughed when I saw the bruised knuckles. Brings back some memories. I just did a outer tie-rod & brake replacement on my car and I used those Mechanix gloves for the first time. I don't think I will go barehanded again.
 

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Excellent post Dave,will use it next year when I plan on doing mine.Some leak down happening, but still runs good.
Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Dieseldreamr;1478355; said:
Arent you also supposed to torque the injectors down to 50ft lbs? I thought I read that somewhere but i could be wrong.
You are correct. I've read that. I'm not sure how you would get a torque wrench on some of them. I just tightened them as tight as I could get them.

Dave
 

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good looking out and writing the details down....

Very nice detail on the write up;) . Also thanks for the pictures they make jobs easier when you need to get the job done right...:)
 

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I'd like to add two things which may be helpful.

1) You should replace the turbo oil return line gasket. You may get by without it, but for the dollar to two it costs, it's worth the trouble. If you reuse one and it leaks, it makes a heck of a mess and it's a PITA to replace. Don't ask me how I know. :D

2) The first picture in your second picture-post shows the "foot" that holds the heat shield in place. It's in the dead center of the pic, right behind the hard injector line and the fuel return line.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=30730&d=1166630128

Pay attention to this when you're putting the heat shield back on. The heat shield rests between the "foot" and the exhaust manifold. There's a slot in the heat shield that the foot slides into.
 

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its a good idea while youre that far in to replace the keepers on the rockers but talk about a serious pita:mad: those injector lines are really hard to get around without knocking crap into the head!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
w_huisman;1479032; said:
I'd like to add two things which may be helpful.

1) You should replace the turbo oil return line gasket. You may get by without it, but for the dollar to two it costs, it's worth the trouble. If you reuse one and it leaks, it makes a heck of a mess and it's a PITA to replace. Don't ask me how I know. :D
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Wade,

Thanks for the added info. Now you've got me thinking. I didn't have a gasket between the turbo and oil return line. Just metal to metal like on the manifold. I guess I'll have to keep an eye on this for potential leaks.

Dave
 

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Ive never worked on a 6.5, but thats an AWESOME DIY!! :ro)

do you want me to put it in the DIY section?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
DURAtotheMAX;1479761; said:
Ive never worked on a 6.5, but thats an AWESOME DIY!! :ro)

do you want me to put it in the DIY section?
Sure, DIY, FAQ, where ever it will be useful to other people.

Thanks,

Dave
 

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Dave12;1479751; said:
Wade,

Thanks for the added info. Now you've got me thinking. I didn't have a gasket between the turbo and oil return line. Just metal to metal like on the manifold. I guess I'll have to keep an eye on this for potential leaks.

Dave
Yes you did. You can see it in this picture as plain as day, stuck on the oil return flange. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=30727&d=1166629940

The oil pipe flange has a slot on the engine-side bolt hole, but the gasket isn't slotted to match the flange.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Wade,

That explains another mystery. I wrote that the flange was slotted and then when I was looking at the pics, it looked like it wasn't. So I guess the trick of just loosening the bolt closest to the engine, you would have to take the gaset off with it.

Thanks,
Dave
 

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Thanks alot Dave.

This is why I like to spend time here.....reading and learning. Great job.
 
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