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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, water in fuel, lots of water in fuel. Found lift pump to be bad and not working, replaced it, then engine light comes on almost immediately. Truck can no longer start real well, couldn't pull itself out of a wet paper sack. Tech said ran fine, pulled no codes. Changed all the fuel, in tank, lines, filter, and everything. Truck has no power, flat acceleration at speed, and then the world went to hell. Pulled 7 codes, all about fuel solenoid, ip, and a few others. Cleared them (GM tech did this). Ran fine for 5 miles, then died at 70 on the highway, limped back to dealership with security light and service engine light on. Come to find out, GM doesn't want to warranty the pump since water was involved. How the heck do I make the gas station pay for $2400 worth of repairs.
 

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Listing the 7 DTC's will help, and any new ones, and is the Water In Fuel indicator still flashing?
 

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It seems arbitrary to say that your IP can't be warrantied because of water in fuel. What determination was used to arrive at this decision?


The pump costs between $600-$700 unless you pay a premium. I would let your dealer know in no uncertain terms that you expected it to be replaced under warranty. The water in fuel light shouldn't invalidate this as the sensor could be fried (water in fuel sensor is in the bottom of the fuel filter and only a seal away from failure).


Don't let the dealer win on this. You could have sucked the bottom of your fuel tank and gotten enough crud to do in the IP sensors (diesel floats on water). What's the history on your IP. 100,000 miles in stock configuration? The dealer should be glad to fix it as many of these as go bad (all of them eventually).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, heres the scoop. Apparantely (sp) I have a friend at the dealership. The pump will be warrantied along with all relevant repairs. The ONLY warranty work this truck has ever had was a IP control box????? done a year ago. I bought this truck about 2 months ago. I love it, everything on this truck is bone stock. I need to know what MUST be done so that this truck will last my brand new company a very long time. I haul 1000-5000 pounds on a 16' trailer 160-200 miles a day 5 days a week. I want to see 4 or 5 hundred thousand out of this truck. Any suggestions on what needs to be changed?
 

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Winchster,


I pulled an old post back up to the top 5K you probably won't need IC or WMI but you will want it as power is ADDICTIVE I have on occasion pulled 12-13K with mine, 5K no sweat all day long.


One mod I don't think I listed before is frame mounted prefilter (RACOR is what I have) with dirt/water block element pre lift pump; would have saved you some problems you see now one equipped with a WIF sensor would let you drain it before causing probs at the IP & LP.
 

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Winchester,


The most important modification you can make is to replace the restrictive factory exhaust.








If you're towing you'll want to free as much power as possible. This might also include modifing your airbox intake as any resistance pre turbo negates your boost psi.


since you're getting a new IP, might I suggest remote mounting the PMD/FSD (IP control box) away from the heat of the engine.


performance chips will turn up fuel and boost for max power.


intercoolers enable you to make max power more efficently but can cost a mint.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Can I move the PMD/FSD myself or as the tech said it is gonna involve major surgery to get it out of where it is located?
 

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It is the black box on the side of the pump.


If the pump is getting replaced then you can try getting them to take it off the new pump before installing it.


Otherwise it really isn't worth moving it.


If you want to remote mount it, leave the old one on the pump as a spare and buy a new one. If/when the remote one dies, you can just plug the original back in till you can get a replacement.
 

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I've removed the intake manifold ( and the FSD)a few times it's not so bad, what's hard is getting it off the side of the pump while on the engine. The head is in the way, about the only thing you can do is loosen the IP, turn it the little it moves and have an offset torx set.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, I meant to ask you about that. I only found the rebuilds on the net for around 1300-1800, and the new one from GM, thanks to a friend, was gonna be $1200.00
 

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I think the vendor vas canadian.
 
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