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GM Upper Engine and Fuel Injector Cleaner (Part Number 88861803) Replaces GM Part Number 88861802, 1050002 and 12346535
You can buy from any one on line for about $16 for 16oz
Note this Document has the old part #
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Document ID: 2373697
#PIP4727A: Cleaning Diesel Engine Fuel Injectors - contaminated fire hard idle injection misfire miss SES - (Feb 11, 2010)

Subject:Cleaning Diesel Engine Fuel Injectors

Models:2001-2010 Chevrolet Express, Kodiak, Silverado
2001-2010 GMC Savana, Sierra, Topkick
Equipped with the 6.6L diesel engines RPO code LB7 LBZ LLY and LMM

This PI was superseded to update model years. Please discard PIP4727. The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:


Dealer may encounter a customer concern of rough running, P0191, or a crank no start.
Poor fuel quality may have induced the rough running, P0191, or no start. A dealer may notice the vehicle has one or more cylinders with the injector balance rates out of specification, a DTC P0191, or a crank no start. When diagnosing a crank no start condition it is possible the injector pintles are stuck closed. A no start with clogged injectors will have sufficient pressure in the fuel rail when the engine is cranked. Cranking pressure will typically be around 4000-5000 psi or 27-34 MPA during a no start due to stuck or clogged injectors.
Recommendation/Instructions:
A dealer encounters a vehicle with a rough running (high injector balance rate), a P0191, or a no start with sufficient pressure in the fuel rail, cleaning injectors may alleviate the condition.
Injector cleanings are only suggested when the dealer has found fuel contamination or suspects fuel contamination.
1. Clean injectors if injector balance rates are not within +4 mm³ and -6.9 mm³. Cleaning the injectors may free up a sticking pintle or clean the residue left by poor fuel.
2. Clean injectors if the engine is a no start, and the vehicle has sufficient pressure in the fuel rail to start. Cranking fuel rail pressure when all 8 injectors are clogged is approximately 4000-5000 psi or 27-34 MPA.
3. Clean injectors if P0191 has set due to a slow fuel rail pressure (FRP) decay rate. P0191 may set due to an accumulated but harmless varnish build-up on the fuel injectors. If servicing a 2006-2008 model year vehicle please see the newest version of bulletin 09-06-04-022 for P0191 ECM calibration information.

Injector Cleaning Procedure:

To clean the injectors the dealer will be using a mixture of GM Upper Engine Fuel Injector Cleaner p/n 88861802 (88861804 in Canada) and diesel fuel. The cleaner will be connected at the rear of engine fuel line quick disconnects. Use an approved one gallon diesel fuel can for this process. Two fuel lines (also approved for use with diesel fuel) will be needed. Remove the quick disconnects at the rear of the engine. Install the two rubber fuel lines in the place of the fuel suction and return lines. Make sure these hoses are long enough to reach the fuel can sitting safely on the floor next to the vehicle. Use 1/2 gallon of fresh clean number 2 diesel fuel (no bio-diesel) and 13 ounces of GM Upper Engine Fuel Injector Cleaner to complete this process.
Run the engine until the complete mixture has been cycled through the engine.
With a no start condition, try to start the engine multiple times until the mixture starts to flow through the system. Make sure not to overheat the starter during this process. Let the starter cool down between each engagement.

Note: If a heavy concentration of debris or contaminates quickly fills the fuel can (from the return side of the fuel system) do not continue to cycle it through the system. Any contaminated fuel removed from the vehicle will need to be disposed of following city and/or state guidelines.
Evaluate the customer concern after the injector cleaning process has been completed.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

© 2011 General Motors. All rights reserved.
DIY Injector Cleaning process (Re-Post from Duramax forum)


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Thank you for posting this, I just did this on my father's truck.

Engine runs smoother, "Actual" fuel rail pressure stays closer to "Desired" under load, balance rates look slightly worse (only slightly).

I ran it at an elevated idle (1200) and it took about an hour and a half to run the mixture through.

I pulled the engine back to idle for the last 20 minutes or so.

2001, Extra Cab, 4X4, LB7, stock, 87K Miles, original injectors, original CP3, Delco filter, no lift pump (yet).


Note: Remember that with the engine warm, the fuel gets warm too (I saw 160*F indicated on the scanner) I used a plastic gallon jug that held winter window washer fluid before (cleaned thoroughly).

As suggested on another board, I zip tied the hose ends together (side by side) to help keep them on the bottom of the jug.

I'm calling it a success at this point as the initial motivation was a DTC of P0093, and it is staying within 8MPa under load now. :)

Troubleshooting showed no signs of an actual leak (no oil dilution, no external leak, no air leaks, just the "Actual" not keeping within 20 MPa of "Desired" under load) and balance rates were within limits.

Figured a $16 bottle of cleaning solution was a reasonable step before investing $$$$ for injectors in the hope they would fix it.
 

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Doing this now... but

Noticed in another thread a reference to a bottle test...
I'm wondering how similar this process is to that one.

Because,

My fuel line and return are ran in to my jug of cleaner, the truck is running through the cleaning process now, but there are small bubbles coming up out of the return line in the cleaner jug.

Just wondering if this is normal or a sign of some other problem.

Thanks
 

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I don't recall bubbles when I did my Dad's truck.

There were a few large ones, right at first (after priming from the jug) but none after that.

Could you have an air leak at the suction hose where it slides on the metal pipe?

I ran his with a hose clamp on both hoses in the jug, and a zip tie as suggested to tie the open ends together to help hold them on the bottom of the jug.
 

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I ordered some today. Amazon for $13. Dealer wanted $28
Jim
 
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Finally got time to do the injector cleaning. Super easy. UTube videos shows how and AutoZone had the tool to disconnect the fuel lines. I stopped just shy of emptying the jug and when re-connected did not need to purge the lines. Definatly less smoke at idle and improved acceleration. Maybe all I had was a stuck injector. I never could get the balance rates checked so no way of telling a quantitative improvement. From what I understand if the cleaning works it will take some time for the full effect to be seen.
Tools and cleaner I have $33 in it, as I see it it is worth a shot.
Jim
 

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Last night I cleaned my injectors again, and when I went to snap the 3/8 line back on it would not "click" into place. I looked inside the quick connect and the barbs were missing. :eek: They had dropped out of the fitting. I found them and everything went back together :thumb:but this would be something to keep in mind when disconnecting the fitting.
Jim
 
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Any notable improvement again or not? I would say keep on running a fairly heavy dose of a good additive (every tank!!) for a while to keep them cleaned up and lubed and see how things go...:thumb:
 

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With only 3 test runs I’m planning to continue to use the optilube with 3 oz. per 30 gal concentration and recheck the rates for a while. Thinking about adding another injector cleaning additive with the optilube. Thoughts/suggestions?
 

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Wanting to clean Injectors!!!!!

Well I tried to use the one set of plastic clip things that I /we were told don't work. guess what they don't. ( DONT WORK!) and they don't .The 3 auto parts places didn't' really have much so had to try one , ( nope)Go figure . I inserted the 3/8" plastic into the end of the return line and with my needle nose pliers tried to force them apart I couldn't .:mad::banghead: I can't get them here in Prince George BC:banghead: Not listed in Ackland, Greggs, Fastenal. catalogue. They seem to be on line but .Bang head here it feels good.:banghead:

Why is it that the simple is made very complicated!!!!! Bang head on the computer!:clap:
 

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The Lisle ones are the best to use, heard from a lot of people the metal ones are difficult to use. If you are having issues, spray some lube up in the fittings for a couple of days- that should help them unlock. There should be no need to "spread" anything, just insert the tool up in the connections and apply some pressure.
 

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Injector cleaning Maybe ???

:hehe:I tried to put the laughing man in the Title... Thanks K9duramax I will try that in the morning. The second ones I got the tabs were shorter 0.425 " long verses the first ones had a tab length of 0.500 long. It is really smoking so have to get this done soon. I got a piece of soft drawn copper pipe if these ones don't work I will make a set to release the tabs yet. Why is it that things that I do are usually hard to do????? :think:
 
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Cleaning injectors

Well maybe it worked???? I did see smoke / haze when I got to my friends place yesterday. It did have more pickup which was very nice.:think: Was going to change on oil today was tooooo cool so didn't . The oil isn't showing diesel but does smell of diesel. When I put it on paper it doesn't smear.
 

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Hey guys. Been reading a lot of these forum comments. I just bought an 03 Duramax LB7. Started smoking the day after I bought it. White smoke. Clouds. I have since ran Lucas fuel treatment in the tank. Also ran some stuff called Power Kleen. Those didn't do much so I've ran about 1 and 1/2 quarts of Diesel Kleene. Smoke seemed to come and go with all this. I let the truck sit for a couple days then fired it up. It didn't smoke at all at first then I drove around for a bit. After it was warm it really started smoking worse then ever. I've been reading up on this GM upper injector cleaner a lot and finally went and got some from the dealer. Bought all necessary supplies as well. This is my last resort. I hope it works. I don't have $5k for injectors replacement. Keep in mind truck runs excellent. Never had an issue of running rough or no start. Truck purrs. Just the smoke is crazy and it's driving me nuts. Any comments? Ideas? I had it tested at a shop for balance rates. They said #3, 5, And 8 are "leaking"...
 

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Did they give you a value for the rate for #3&5?
I understand your question. Mine runs and starts excellent, the only symptoms being smoke at idle when warm and out so spec balance rate on #7 ,anywhere between-4.7 to 5.6 at idle.
Frustrating isn't it
 

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No they didn't give me any specifics. The dealer I bought I from just relayed what the shop had told him. The dealer paid for the inspection because I demanded it be looked at.
 

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You may have them hook it up again and give you a print out or at least let you take a snapshot
 

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UPDATE! I ran the GM upper injector cleaner today for the first time. Everything went smooth. I will tell you this stuff works! The first half hour the truck still smoked at idle. But the 2nd half of the procedure is where the magic happened. The truck literally stopped smoking completely! It even gave a couple small hints of light healthy black puffs. I also noticed the smell of the nasty white smoke went away. I thought for sure I had stumbled upon pure perfection. After reconnecting the fuel lines and starting it back up on tank gas it started with the damn white smoke again. But it did inprove significantly. Then after I got it on the road I noticed 2 things. It ran a lot better and the smoke did go away. I ran it for over an hour on the road. Highway and stop and go. It did not smoke. But then just as I pulled into the driveway at the house I seen a small puff of white. I have already ordered another bottle and am going to run it a second time. I believe this stuff works wonders and it just may need more than one cleaning. Will keep you all posted.
 
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