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I took my truck in today because the cluster wasn't working again. The tech came out with a reader and while he was checking for codes I got him to check the balance of my injectors.


Has anyone else had this done? If yes what numbers are you getting? I know plus or minus 4 is bad. Seven of them were anywhere from -0.18 to -0.60 but one read at -2.19.


Any thoughts??


Thanks!!
 

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Seven of them were anywhere from -0.18 to -0.60 but one read at -2.19.


Read mine the other day. Very similar, all between -0.1 and -0.8 except #1 injector was -1.69. Seems like their within spec. Keep a record and repeat the measurement again in a year to look for trends.





On edit: My truck has a little over 15K miles on odometerEdited by: OC_DMAX
 

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I wish my numbers were that good...
. Anything under 3 is pretty good from what I understand.


Josh
 

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I've got the same range, except it's my #7 that likes to stay around 2.00. Running like a champ for the last 21,000 miles and my Predator box is a reach away at all times.
 

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Victory Red said:
I've got the same range, except it's my #7 that likes to stay around 2.00. Running like a champ for the last 21,000 miles and my Predator box is a reach away at all times.

Ironically my #7 is the black sheep of the bunch and stands out like a sore thumb. Always fluctuates between 2.5 - 3 and all the rest are +/- 1.0 ... this is an 03 with 8K miles.
 

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Are yall reading the codes with a predator? If so will a Quad box do the same?
 

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At idle, mine are ranging from 5 to -5.


No good? If I were to take it into the dealer, what would they do?


This worries me, I want to deal with this before my Nicktane comes...
 

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You should get in to a dealer soon and get it checked out completely. Where in CA are you, I work in Chino, Let me know if your close and we can take a look!





Robert
 

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mannytranny - I think GM considers anything between -6 and +6 O.K. I have one (#1) that has been sitting around in the -4 range for almost a year now, sometimes it's better (-2.5). Numbers haven't really moved sinced I installed secondary fuel filtration, actually got a bit better. My truck runs flawlessly, so the dealer will not see it until I see numbers greater than 6 or so (hoping that won't happen).


Question: Should we be in Drive (truck stopped foot on brake) or in Park when checking rates? I read that you should do both. My numbers while in Drive are a bit better, so it makes me feel better to look at them then...
 

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From another post on Balance Rates:


From the manual:

1. Start and run the engine until the engine coolant temperature is more than 82°C (180°F).



2. Turn OFF all accessories.



3. Hold the brake pedal in the fully applied position. A hiss will be noticeable when the brake is fully applied.



4. Place the transmission in Drive.

5. Idle the engine for more than 30 seconds.



6. Record the Balancing Rate Cyl.1-8 parameters from the scan tool while the engine is at idle speed.



7. Repeat steps 2-6 with the transmission in Neutral.



Are all of the Balancing Rate parameters within the first specified range in Drive, and the second specified range in Neutral?



-6 mm³ and +6 mm³ - Drive Range

-4 mm³ and +4 mm³ - Neutral Range





Question: Should we be in Drive (truck stopped foot on brake) or in Park when checking rates? I read that you should do both. My numbers while in Drive are a bit better, so it makes me feel better to look at them then...


Part of your question is answered above. The balance rate numbers that I posted way above were for the "Neutral" test. When loading the engine a little bit by putting it in drive, the variance in the balance rate numbers increase. This is supported by the procedure in the manual where the pass/fail window opens from 4 to 6.


When taking you balance rate numbers, make sure you follow the procedure above, especially steps 1 & 2.





Later,


AlanEdited by: OC_DMAX
 

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I checked it again when it was wamer. All were within -3 to 3.


I guess it makes a pretty big difference when they are cold...
 
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