[catch2otwo]

hey guys, wut tools and sizes of these tools are needed. i need to know of i have the tools or ill go buy them before i install them tonight. i heard some big wrenches are needed but no one mentioned sizes and neither do the instructions.

 

[BudTX]

I'm going off of memory, but as far as "out of the ordinary" tools I believe that you will need a 1 5/16 wrench and a pitman arm puller.

If you purchased from Kennedy (where I got mine), you can give him a call and he can tell you for sure.

Good luck,

Bud

 

[catch2otwo]

the pitman arm has to be pulled? im not replacing my arms just installing the braces

 

[catch2otwo]

anyone else?

 

[BudTX]

I mistakenly assumed that you were putting new pitman and idler arms in with the braces.

 

[catch2otwo]

naa just the braces, well i got the 1 5/16s, so i guess we'll see how it goes.

 

[mr_udy]

You dont need to remove pitman arm to install the braces. You DO need to remove the bolt though. Also, I had to remover Idler arm assembly from the frame to ge clearance to remove/reinstall bolt on it.

 

[catch2otwo]

ok braces are installed. no complaints but the lack of directions from cognito. a blind deaf 3 yr old could have written better instructions. here is a list of tools that i needed. i had to go to the store a few times to buy them which prolonged the install.

1. Skid plates - both plastic and metal one- need 15 mm

2. Lock nuts holding pitman, idler arm to drag link - need 13/16ths deep
socket

3. Large nut holding pitman arm to steering box - need 1 5/16 open wrench.

4. Nut holding the idler arm to idler arm bushing - 15/16ths open wrench

5. Idler arm bushing nuts and bolts - need 13/16th or 21mm wrench and socket. (this assembly needs to be moved up in order for you to be able to take the nut in step 4 out or the crossmember gets in the way.)

6. Jam nuts on heim joint - need 15/16s wrench and socket

7. Shank nuts going through heim joints - need 7/8s socket

I hope that helps someone on their install cause if someone posted this i wouldnt have had to waste so much time going to the store. other then that install is simple.

 

[jonesport]

Thanks . One trip to the store for me-Notice any change in the way it drives?

 

[toy fever]

Thanks I have had the braces for about 4 months and haven't gotten around to installing them yet.

 

[catch2otwo]

na i didnt have any slop or nothing in the steering to begin with. drives the same, i just figured they were a good idea since im gonna go a little higher with green keys, and im running 35s now so it cant hurt.

 

[m.gil]

do ya need to check the alignment after the install?

 

[mr_udy]

No need to alighn...you dont actually undo the idler/pitman...just remove the bolts.

 

[m.gil]

thanks i just had one done when i cranked the bars, didnt want to have to do it again.

 

[catch2otwo]

yea no alignment unless you replace the arms themselves..

 

[SANDHEAD]

Were you going through pitman/idler arms? Because i am and was just looking into this today. Is it worth the money? And did it remove any current play in your steering or had you recently replaced them before? I went through a few sets of them both while under warranty but now its on me so i want to fix it right and for good.

 

[catch2otwo]

my steering was perfectly fine. my truck only has 18xxx miles on it, and both arms are still stock. i had been running the stock 245s on there with t bars cranked until a couple months ago when i picked up a set of h2s with 315s. now i run those. i havnt noticed any difference in tightness or steering feel. but i figure its preventative. id say if your not running a big tire or lift, id say just leave it. new arms are like 60-80 bucks and will usually last around 100 thousand miles. so if your truck is stock and is gonna stay that way, i wouldnt waste my money.

 

[Cal Wheeler]

Also on the install...

DON'T put any thread locker on anything until you're SURE you have to/don't have to move the idler arm up off its bolts.

It's a real female dog to put back where it belongs; was for me anyhow.

By that time, the red thread locker made it a leetle tough to adjust the rod ends.

I'd say get everything you need assembled up, (including re-bolting the idler arm body) back off the jam nuts, apply the locktite, and then thighten it all up.

 

[Cal Wheeler]

I declined on the trip to the auto store for a 1 5/16th wrench, and just used a big-a$$ crescent wrench. Likewise on the jam nuts, used 2 of them.

But don't ask me what the torque values are...:0

 

[mr_udy]

I could not get the torque wrench on the 1 5/16 bolt anyhow...I had to use cresent wrench as well...and a big long pipe!