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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I looked on both this site and HyperTechs for some information on if you can install one of their chips on a stock truck and if so, what is the horsepower/torque differences.

Does anyone have information on this?

Thank you,

Pete..:)
 

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Yeah, stay away from the Hypertech chip!!!!:badidea: Get ahold of John Kennedy or Bill Heath on here for a good chip.:grd:
 

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While I have no first hand experience about hypertech in the 6.5, I have read a couple bad things about it. There's also at least one member here who has the hypertech in his 6.5 and is happy with it.

Bullydog is another one to avoid. Fancy brand name but they get them from a subcontractor.

I got my pcm reflash from Wester's, who also does the reflashes for Kennedy. I ended up getting a POS remanufactured pcm when I bought my reflash. The thing would be fine for weeks, then it would stall out when you least expected it (mostly with my wife). It cost me an additional $1,300 in towing and repairs before it was finally diagnosed as a bad PCM. Then it was an extra $45 for a replacement pcm:cool: .

Bottom line is that you can have bad luck with any supplier. CHECK OUT THE WARRANTY BEFORE YOU BUY.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for your answers guys. I will continue to do some research as what would be the best for me. I'm looking for a product with a proved track record.

Pete..:)
 

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I am not that member!!...LOL....I had a hypertech in my truck and replaced it with a new OEM prom. The crappy fuel mileage and not so noticable power were not worth the possible engine damage that so many have claimed hypertech can cause due to hi EGT's and cylinder pressure. I gained almost 5 mpg going back to OEM. I will not be messing with chips for awhile. Gonna keep mine safe until I see if my head gaskets are shot or not. Stay away from Hypertech. Just my 2 cents worth. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Will do Dwayne,

Thanks again for your help and I would like to say that you have a really nice looking truck!!

Pete
 

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Thanks Pete, appreciate that. :)
 

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actually, if you wanted to you could go here, http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/product_24_6.5TD_High_Performance_Power_Chip.html, for a chip, he has 2 forms for the same price, a 40 horse for stock exhaust, or an 80 horse if you have a 3.5" or larger exhaust and guages.
HAHAHAhAhAHAHAHAHA!!!! Sorry. That claim of 80 is so over inflated IMHO. Even with a whole swack of mods it is hard to get an additional 80hp over stock on the 6.5. This chip has been dicussed here to great length here before and I think someone even tried it and was way less than impressed. Stick with Kennedy or Heath and you can't go wrong. Plus we all KNOW these guys will stand behind their product.
 

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re: Hypertech chip

From my limited experience here, it appears that the Heath Max-E-TORK prom is a preferred solution for a chip. That chip coupled with a 3.5"-4" exhaust and the Turbomaster wastegate control (also available from Heath) and instrumentation (EGT, Boost) get things squared away without spending a gob more $$$.

The Kennedy 97 cooling mod is also highly recommended and I'll learn what that does shortly when I get my ride back on the road.

I've got all of the components above except for the chip. I can plug that in when the money tree blooms again.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
From my limited experience here, it appears that the Heath Max-E-TORK prom is a preferred solution for a chip. That chip coupled with a 3.5"-4" exhaust and the Turbomaster wastegate control (also available from Heath) and instrumentation (EGT, Boost) get things squared away without spending a gob more $$$.

The Kennedy 97 cooling mod is also highly recommended and I'll learn what that does shortly when I get my ride back on the road.

I've got all of the components above except for the chip. I can plug that in when the money tree blooms again.;)
Hi Steve,

This sounds good, but the only thing is that I'm not upgrading the exhaust so I'm wondering if the Heath Max-E-TORK prom would work for a stock engine. I'm going to do some more research.

Thank you everyone for your responses.

Pete
 

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Exhaust should be the first thing you do.
 

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guybb3 is right. exhaust is the foundation for performance. If you're satisfied with stock, that's okay too.

I'll use the banks explanation:

Your motor is a pump. Air flows in and flows out. It you remove the restrictions at the intake and the exhaust, you gain efficiency and release more hp.

Another way to add hp is to add fuel and air. With more fuel and air comes increased exhaust output. The engine must work harder to push the exhaust gasses through the restrictive stock exhaust. This requires added fuel, which leads to higher egt's.

You can force some extra hp out of motor, but it's not as efficent as letting it breath properly.
 

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Do exhaust before anything else. If you do a chip before you do exhaust and gauges, expect to replace the motor shortly there after. Spend the money you were going to put into a chip and get yourself a good exhaust system first, then a pyrometer and boost gauge, then get a chip as money allows. If you go in this order, you will be making substantial improvements and doing so safely. Trust me, while you might not like this aproach, you will be much happier in the long run with a truck that runs stronger and is MORE reliable. :grd:
 

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LOL! I just re-read my post and don't you just hate it when someone say's "trust me"?!:lol:
 

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Since your truck and mine have identical color scheme - red on black - might I suggest a short trip, as a means of acquiring further practical information :

Get a piece of cardboard (and a flashlite, now that it's dark), big enough to lay on comfortably, place it on the ground under your truck.

Now, if you slide up under the passenger-side, just behind the front wheel, you should be able to see the turbo-to-cat downpipe between the frame and the transmission.
Notice how much of the pipe o.d. is still smoothly circular, round in shape, non-restrictive as it passes down between the engine and frame.

Now, slide back to the Cat-muffler-tailpipe area, notice the reduction in diameter, from the 3" downpipe, to the 2.50" taipipe, and some of the unnecessary bends, crinkles, restrictions.

Feel free to slide out anytime, now, and you can proceed to the comfort of your home.

Well - whaddaya thimk?

See any need for improvement?

Some don't - most do.

But it is food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Since your truck and mine have identical color scheme - red on black - might I suggest a short trip, as a means of acquiring further practical information :

Get a piece of cardboard (and a flashlite, now that it's dark), big enough to lay on comfortably, place it on the ground under your truck.

Now, if you slide up under the passenger-side, just behind the front wheel, you should be able to see the turbo-to-cat downpipe between the frame and the transmission.
Notice how much of the pipe o.d. is still smoothly circular, round in shape, non-restrictive as it passes down between the engine and frame.

Now, slide back to the Cat-muffler-tailpipe area, notice the reduction in diameter, from the 3" downpipe, to the 2.50" taipipe, and some of the unnecessary bends, crinkles, restrictions.

Feel free to slide out anytime, now, and you can proceed to the comfort of your home.

Well - whaddaya thimk?

See any need for improvement?

Some don't - most do.

But it is food for thought.
LOL, you are right. I know upgrading the exhaust would be a big help but If at all possible, I would really love to hear an exhaust on someones truck prior to me purchasing one.

Anyone who lives in the Connecticut area, if you wouldn't mind meeting up with me to hear your modified exhaust, it would be much appreciated.

Firefighter, nice Chevelle, I just sold a 1970 Olds 442 W-30 that was completely restored.

Please let me know.

Thanks,

Pete..:)
 

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Firefighter, nice Chevelle, I just sold a 1970 Olds 442 W-30 that was completely restored.

Please let me know.

Thanks,

Pete..:)
:drool: Oooooohhhh............. I love those '70 442 W-30's! Too bad you sold it..and especially not to me! LOL! I think the wife would kill me anyway. Thanks for the compliment though!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
:drool: Oooooohhhh............. I love those '70 442 W-30's! Too bad you sold it..and especially not to me! LOL! I think the wife would kill me anyway. Thanks for the compliment though!
I owned the car for 14 years and all it did was sit in the garage. It had 59K original miles. Someone gave me an offer that I couldn't refuse and I was getting into trucks so I sold it. I'm happy with my decision.

I hear you about the wife, but she can be understanding too, especially when I purchased two vehicles within a two week timeframe..:)
 

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I have a Hypertech chip in the '95 Tahoe. It came with the vehicle, and I didn't have the OEM chip to compare (owner said he lost it). I immediately put in a downpipe (boy you should have seen the old one), opened the rest of the exhaust, a new crossover, and Bill Health's remote FSD/PMD, plus opened up the intake (reamed out the intake plenum - see Kennedy's site). Plus, the wastegate vacuum actuator was dead, so I fixed that as well. Finally, I put in a 180 degree thermostat in (from SSDiesel).

The vehicle is lively for a full-sized rig (yes, we DID measure 0-60 times of 9.5), and gets around 15-16MPG around town. I verified that the chip IS a Hypertech.

I am waiting for the wallet to cool down before adding gauges. The previous owner had driven the rig with the Hypertech for many years. I think the low weight of the Tahoe, coupled with the fact we don't tow anything, makes it an OK choice. Honestly, I would prefer that the vendors of these chips give us details on exactly what gets remapped (e.g. stock fuel delivery curves vs. new, stock boost pressure vs. new, etc.). At least give me some reliable, measured design data ... "+40HP" doesn't really help me in knowing what it is doing.

I have not had any problems thus far, but again, I don't currently have any gauges to know exactly what is going on. With my limited dollars, I did do the reliability mods right away - my thinking was that if I open the intake/exhaust I will relieve any excess pressure on the engine, and the thermo will help keep it cooler, and the remote FSD will also keep it more reliable, even if I couldn't measure everything. I can certainly say it runs a lot cooler, doesn't seem to have as much vibration, and has a LOT more power.

So far, it has been a really terrific vehicle, and I enjoy driving it. It starts easily, has lots of torque, is relatively quiet (after warmup), and is reasonable on the fuel.

I have no complaints.

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 
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