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Yes there are a lot of additives available.

The question is if they will increase the life of the injectors enough to pay for themselves.

I personally do not think any additive affects the lifespan enough to be worth it (This is going off a lot of feedback from many of our customers) but if I would decide to use any additives on a regular basis it would be Stanadyne diesel fuel conditioner.

Additive and extra filtration are proven to help, but I have spoke personally with people who used both since day one and their injectors still went bad at 100K.

- Titus
No help from extra filtration? I read on line the stock filter let grit pass through. Does the problem stem from the high fuel rail pressure? What is the root of the problem with the injectors?

Mitch
03 2500HD AFE intake, 3"exhaust, Hypertech programmer.
 

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It can be a issue on any common rail system. Even the early 03-05 common rail cummins had some issue's with injectors. Good fuel is good to help protect the system from contaminants and other junk. But at the end of the day it does not insure that your injectors are not going to fail. If it did every LB7 owner would be running a air dog or other type of filtration system.
 

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Thanks for the insight, I'll be installing a supplimental filter and then tackling the injector change in a couple months. And then off to the smog check station, aint California great. Thanks again
 

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This is amazing. The job seems so intimidating, but I think I may attempt it. Thanks for this.
 

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2002 Silverado 2500HD ECSB 8.1L 4x4
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This is amazing. The job seems so intimidating, but I think I may attempt it. Thanks for this.
It's really not a difficult job. Intimidating, maybe a little, just because there's a lot going on under the hood, but it's the best way to familiarize yourself with your Duramax :)

The few grand in labor that you'll be saving is nice too!
 

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I have to concurr with ANCHO intimidating yes !
But, you can accomplish it with moderate knowledge under the hood.
I did it by following the DIY link posted on this website.
 

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I have a 2004 LB7 and started the job of replacement of all the injectors. It has taken me 13 hours to get to the point of popping out the injectors. It seems like everything fought me once I removed the wheels and drained the coolant. The wire harness connectors that connect to the injectors harnesses have a light gray keeper lock. Well the first one was missing on the side that the dealer replaced number 7 injector. I could not see that side of the front connector so I thought it was the same. I finally found out the problem and removed the clip. The turbo inter-cooler hose on the drivers side fought me for a hour. The injector lines on the side that the dealer worked on were so tight that I needed a cheater bar to break them loose. The return lines on that side were the same. The drivers side came apart easily. I was not impressed with the dealers work 18 months earlier. Each injector line still had corrosion on it where it connected to the injector. I had Major Guard coverage and they left those rusty lines without cleaning them or replacing them.
I have one upper valve cover screw that fell yesterday and I cannot find it. I will look for it first thing today.
 

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good write ulots of good info.
 

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Finished!

Finished the installation and it runs smooth and great. I had one injector cup pull out with the injector. When installing the injector cup use red 272 Loctite and not other red Loctite. 272 Loctite is high temperature (450F) application and is thicker. The bad injector happened to be number 7 which is the one the Dealer put in 18 months before. It was wet and the others were not. I adjusted the valves which were needed.

I put in the Bosch rebuilt injectors from Lincoln. I decided that for the extra money it would be a good investment.
 

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I would like to just change the injector that is bad, wouldn't I be able to take the valve cover off, then reconnect the lines and run the truck. Then the bad injector would be noticeable ?
 

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Its not that easy!!!
it is a lot of work to get to the Injectors themselves, you need to be diagnosed with a Scan Tool and that will tell which injector is out of parameters.
I just dropped the DOUGH on remanufactured Injectors and did it myself.
You need to follow the procedure posted on this website.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I would like to just change the injector that is bad, wouldn't I be able to take the valve cover off, then reconnect the lines and run the truck. Then the bad injector would be noticeable ?
This will only work if the bad injector is leaking fuel externally (into the oil).

......And if the leak is bad enough that you can find it,

Disconnect the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and that will turn the fuel pressure all the way up, thereby making the leak easier to find.

You can also add some ultraviolet dye in the fuel at the fuel filter, and then look for the leaking injector with a blacklight.
 

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Great write up!!!
Going to tackle this between Christmas and New Years,,,have a few questions about the 5mm Hex tool needed to remove the lower valve cover!!
Wondering if it would be better off to get a 1/4" drive 5mm that is the standard type end,,,over getting a ball end,,,don't want to screw up a bolt by have the ball slip or warp the head!!!
Seen it mentioned that getting the bolts near the firewall are a bugger to get at,,,and wonder if the 1/4 drive would make it easier to get at!!??
Any tips or ideas from the guys who've already done this??
Also looked on Snap-ons site..they have a stubby 5mm available also,,,might be something to try?
 

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yes, the ones near the firewall are more difficult to get to, but with the correct combo of
1/4"extentions and, or swivels,stubby ratchet, be sure to follow the procedure by DuraTitus!
also be sure to remove front tires and firmly support truck on jack stands, it easier to get to those bolts through the wheel well, also when removing the high pressure return lines, that you use the combination of a torx bit (I forget the size) and vise grips on the head of bolt.
you will strip out the torx head if you dont!!!
The head of these bolts are tall enough to get just enough grip.
I bought a new pair of visegrips, you want nice sharp teeth to grip!
 

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Thanks for the response!!!
Does anyone know what size tork sit is needed?? I have plenty of tork bits,,but will order up the proper size from snap-on,,,don't need to be screwing anything thing up,,,truck has 200000 miles on it,,,first time injector swap,,,so things will be tight and brittle!!!
Having a buddy that's a body man come over to take the sheet metal off,,going to take the front end off,,put the frame on jacks and pull the wheels off,,,don't know why they don't build these trucks with flip hoods like kenworth and petes have!!!!
 

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I did not take any sheet metal off...thought about it,!... but by time I was neck deep into disassembly I had forgotten all about it.
as for the TORX BIT size please read through the procedure posted on this project it is written in there somewhere after removal of lower valve cover and before injector removal.
 

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Subscribing!!! :thumb:
 

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Great info...
 
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