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How to add manual high idle (PTO) LLY

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82K views 104 replies 37 participants last post by  jhyde01  
#1 · (Edited)
Due to popular demand here are some pictures and notes of the manual high idle installation on my LLY. We use the PTO function of the ECM to allow us to set the idle up to 1150 RPM or 1700 RPM. Once installed you can press set on the cruise control button while the truck is in park and it will idle up to 1150 RPM. Resume will take you to 1700 RPM. Pressing the brake or shifting out of park will bring it down to normal idle.


First you need to Remove the 2 (10mm) bolts holding the PCM to allow easier access to the ECM.


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Unplug the 2 connectors on the TCM and remove the TCM out of the way to give you more room to work.


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Here is a picture of the ECM. You need to unplug the bottom of the 3 plugs. There is a tab holding the grey locking lever. You need to push in this tab and then pull the grey lever all the way back.


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Then unplug the plug from the ECM.


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Next you will need to remove the wire protector cover.


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Here is what it will look like from the back side with the wire protector cover removed. You will need to remove the plug from terminal 6. They are marked so you need to count 6 from the marked number 1.


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You will need to completely remove the pin lock from the other side of the plug. Make sure you notice which way it comes out so you put it back in the right way.


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Next you need to crimp your end on to a wire. The wire should be around 22 gauge.


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Next insert the pin into the the plug in the hole that you removed the wire plug from. Sorry I didn't get pictures of that.


Once you see it is snapped into place you should be able to see the pin inserted correctly from the other side. Then you need to reverse your steps. Put the pin lock back in, reinstall the wire cover, plug the connector back into the ecm, plug the wires back into the PCM, bolt the PCM back down.


Then you just need to run your wire into the cab. I recommend buying split loom to keep it looking factory.


Lastly you need to hook up the wire inside the cab. I recommend hooking it up to the brake switch for ease of use and a clean install. Solder it to the green/white wire on the brake switch. This wire is 12+ only when the brakes aren't depressed and the gear shift is in park. You could also wire this wire to a spst switch with the other wire on the switch going to a FUSED +12v or ignition source.


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#2 ·
One other thing. Every time you try to engage the high idle for the first time you will have to press set twice. One more push brings it down to normal idle. After the first time one press will idle it up to 1150 again.
 
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#4 ·
Great job.


This needs to be a sticky.
 
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#5 ·
yes it does. I cant wait to get mine.
 
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#6 ·
forgive my ignorance, but what is this high idle used for or what does it fix? I am new to diesels and am learning more and more.

thanks
 
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#7 ·
To aid in quicker warm up time. If you havent noticed, it will take a diesel about 3 times as long as a gasser to reach operating temp when its cool out.
 
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#9 ·
What would putting the green wire onto the brake switch of a ZF-6 truck do? Does that wire on a ZF-6 only have power when the parking brake is depressed and no pedals are depressed? Also, if I chose to just wire it to a 12V source does that mean that i could engage the high idle anytime (like without parking brake on)?





BTW, Great write up, ive been waiting for someone to figure out how to do this with an LLY
 
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#10 ·
Actually since the LLY has an automatic high idle this will help people in the 30-50 degree weather warm up their truck. The automatic high idle won't kick in at those temperatures and that is where this comes in handy.
 
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#11 ·
Max Power,





Just to clarilfy, I assume the cold weather high idle (below 32 degrees F, below 150 Eng temp) is unaffected by this mod, correct?
 
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#12 ·
correct
 
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#13 ·
Really makes the exhaust stink though. I haven't been able to activate the Elevated idle yet to see how that is, but I stunk up the shop pretty fast with the manual fast idle activated. The idle also wavers a bit at first.





While I was in there, I grabbed the tach signal wire and pulled up a shunt so I can pull tach signal for the dyno...





Dealer had the pin on hand FYI. It will be a while before I get to working up a full blown tech tip as I need to verify that we are doing ourselves a service by installing this. Didn't go through the firewall to hook it up either
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#14 ·
Kennedy said:
Didn't go through the firewall to hook it up either
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I just got my pin in the mail and was going to do the mod tonight.

John,

I assume you tapped into the brake signal under the main fuse box?? Can you be more specific on which wire you used so I don't have to go to the cabin. I could (and probably will) pull out the fluke but any tips would be appreciated ;).

Also, clue us in to some of the potential draw backs you are contemplating.........

Thanks,
OD
 
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#15 ·
I can't see it causing any problems. The only downfall is that the automatic high idle might change the turbo vane position to increase warm up and the manual (pto) will not do that.
 
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#16 ·
Just want to add my $.03 and say AWESOME JOB MAXPOWER! Got the pins this weekend, and did the mod today... Works GREAT!!
 
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#17 ·
I got the pin the other day, but now I'm on vacation and have nothing to do. . . I guess the mod will have to wait until after Turkey Day. . . Don't wanna be under the hood and have triptophans take effect. . .):h
 
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#18 ·
It is a great shame that I am totally inadequate when it comes to doing things like this.. I can change the oil, even change bulbs, and at a pinch, make a reasonable attempt at wiring something to a simple cct. But, however much I want a manual high idle, I will never attempt to do it myself. Some of us, just aint technically minded..

But, the pictures are great.. shame that they are not for a medium duty.. :)

Mylash, somewhat overwhelmed by electronics.
 
#19 ·
Mylash, anyone, and i mean anyone can do this by following my directions. It is easier then changing your oil.
 
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#20 · (Edited)
Max Power said:
Mylash, anyone, and i mean anyone can do this by following my directions. It is easier then changing your oil.
As many have said, nice job on your instructions Max.

However, I have one question about something I missed or you didn't mention.
"Do you recommend disconnecting the Batteries," when preforming this procedure?
Cautiously careful! :blahblah:
 
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#21 ·
Yeah, it's not a bad idea to disconnect the batteries. Trust me, it's not hard to install the manual high idle--if I can do it, most untrained apes should be able to as well!
 
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#22 · (Edited)
mine doesn't work

I finally got around to installing the manual high idle pin & wire I bought from DMAXALLITECH. I broke the pin trying to get it into the connector because it was too big around. I nearly had a fit because I almost couldn't get the part that broke off out of the slot.Censored :wtf1:

So, I went down to my local stealer. After watching the rep look through the computer, he finally brought out a tray for me to look through. It wasn't in that tray. So, he brought me into the back to look at all of the trays with connectors and pins. After about ten minutes of looking through tray after tray, we found the same size pin as I bought from DMAXALLITECH. I had to pay $1.25 for it. My solder work is not near as nice as Eric's.

Unfortunately, that one didn't fit either because it was also too big around to fit into the slot. So, with my trusty rotary tool and a sanding bit, I ground the bulge down until it would go in. I pushed it until it clicked, but I still can't see it from the bottom of the connector like you can the other pins. And, my high idle doesn't work. :damnit1: :think: So, what's wrong with my picture? :banghead:

Please help me out. I'd reaLLY like to be able to use this.:help:

Thanks,

J
 
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#23 ·
Gruffid, I had the same problems. First off, yes the pin needs to go all the way down so you can see it like all the others. The other thing I had to do was crimp the connector down so it was smaller in roundness so it would go all the way in. You can do it. Good luck!! :exactly:
 
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#24 ·
I'm starting to think this is the "play a rotten joke on J" topic. There's no way in hell that pin is going into that slot. Especially now that the second pin broke like the first one and the lower half of it is broke off inside the plug.

Any ideas on how to get it out? And is there a more professional way to get this done. How is it routed if you order this functionality from the factory. I'm not excited about tapping any of the factory wires, much less the brake wire.

Yeah, it's "easy".... my foot.

Thanks for any help you can give.

J
 
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#25 ·
Why don't you get the right pin? My pin went in no problem.

More professional?? You could get the wire under the hood. You could wire in a serperate switch. I don't know how much more professional you can get. I find that quite insulting.
 
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#26 · (Edited)
Tony,

Ok, I didn't mean for you to take it that way. I suppose what I should have said was "is there a way I can make it look professional because I suck at drilling holes and soldering." If I had friends in the area with Duramax's who were members, they would tell you the same.

So, is there a way that I can make it look professional without having to drill stuff or solder too much.

I bought the first pin from DMAXALLITECH, who marketed it as the "high idle kit". I just assumed that the pin would be the correct size, since he's selling the pin/kit for that purpose. When I bought the replacement at the stealer, it was exactly the same size/shape as the one I bought from Eric.

J
 
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